Check your Ignition key before its too late.

For some "odd" reason.
I decided to actually use my key to unlock the doors.
No Go. It would not turn.

Grabbed the extra set and Bingo. She unlocked.
But why? Closer inspection showed my key I use everyday was WORN. Bad.
But it still starts the truck just fine.

Moral of the story is, If your battery goes dead. The wireless door locks won't work.
Guess who isn't getting in their truck if the key is worn?

 

Cycle out your key/remote every 6 months, assuming you have both factory key sets. Evens out the wear.

 

At this point, I curious what the lock tumblers look like?
But you have a good idea. My problem would be remembering to switch keys.

 

Here is one positive to the smart key system.

I still miss the old school key.

 

bought the truck used came with one key set.

Years later all of a sudden, fob remote lock/unlock button range decreased from distance, to you have to be standing next to a door basically.

anyone know why?

long prior to that, case was changed to AJT Designs fob without issue
and have confirmed known good battery
Also looked inside to verify battery contacts not overly flat or anything

from what I’ve read, the signal reciever is a box hidden behind the glovebox. Searching the part online, they look robust.

I’m guessing the fob has simply gone bad from high age and may have something to do with the circuit board inside, and need replacement.

after all, the overhead temp display also has a circuit board and we all know that goes bad over time. But that’s fixable by re-melting the solder connections that visibly crack.

might try throwing two new key fobs (and one blade) at it to see what happens. I think there’s even a 2-in-1 version out there to integrate key and fob.

I’ll have to find that recent thread showing cheap tools and parts list needed to DIY this.

I’m just not 100% sure yet if the reciever is in fact what I think it is, and can be ruled out.
On my last car it was a plastic circuit board antenna at the top rear of headliner to have line of sight through glass. That was known to crack reducing range, and common fix being to put a bunch of little binder clips that squeeze it together, being much cheaper than replacement.

It can help to put lock cylinder lube every now and then.

maybe. I know on some cars it recommended doing that, to keep the fobs in sync with the vehicle. As on other cars they will lose the sync if not used over time. Like when an owners second key is never used, eventually it stops working and needs reconnecting or replacing.

 

What do you mean by “known good battery”?

Sometimes even a battery that tests to the correct voltage can lack the power for certain applications. If you’ve tried new batteries, disregard.

Sounds like a new fob is in order.

 

I have a theory on worn keys and locks, or ignition switches.

As the key wears down, the sharp edges it used to have when new become smoothed out. The lock has its parts designed to see the valleys and points of the key. As those valleys and points smooth out, the lock components become smoothed out. You might occasionally feel it sort of grab then turn occasionally. That’s the lock having a tiny bit of material being shaved off.

Like my house locks. They were original from the 50s. One of the deadbolts would have to be monkey jiggled to turn. Sometimes I would give up and go to another door. The police came for a broken window vandalism, they even said I need to replace them because they’re super old and way too easy to defeat. So I replaced all with Schlage grade 2.

I’m no locksmith. Just my theory with a little rant included.

 

The door control receiver is in the dash, just as you stated.
The aftermarket key fob would be my first suspect.
you might try manipulating the buttons with out the case if that’s even possible?

I can’t see the receiver going bad in a way where it would pick up signal.
Maybe if there were some kind of sound deadening or heat shield that someone installed in the truck that might block the signal. But that too is highly unlikely to interfere with the signal.

 

The reason the worn key works in the ignition is purely because the ignition cylinder is also wearing with that key. The door is exposed to the elements first off, secondly, since it’s way less used, the tumblers are also in much better shape. So a worn key has a harder time fully engaging the tumblers in it

 

Good idea. lol.

 

I love my base model with no electric anything. Cheap and easy to swap out the door locks and ignition cylinder.

 

I prefer the having the remote, esp when it's 20F outside and I'm questioning if I remembered to lock the truck up. The worn key in the door lock issue is an oddball and rarely an issue for most owners.

 

F150 key pad FTW

 

I have the SR base model trim.
The fob does have remote open, but I use the manual door key lock instead.
I also have an ignition key and not that push button affair that depends upon some wireless connection to the fob.
I also like simplicity.

 

1. A high quality dealer battery. That they use for this reason. Tried two actually, new, to no avail.
2. Also took a multimeter to it

 

I tend to keep vehicles well past their natural life expectancy and the worn out key has been a thing with every one I’ve owned in the past. Never had an ignition switch issue however.

 

So this way they will both be worn out with no copy avalible.

 

For about $3 you can have a spare key made that will only unlock the door. I have a 3rd key with the electronics to start the truck, cost about $60. The key that will only open the door is hidden outside where I can get to it in the event I lose a key or something like this happens. The key that will start the truck is hidden inside. In the event a thief finds the outside key they can't start the truck and hopefully won't continue looking for another key inside. The 2nd factory key and key fob are in my house.

 

I have a few “dumb” keys that I carry in my ski pants, hunting jacket, backpack (cold weather) or zipper pocket in my shorts (summer) anytime I go somewhere it would be very bad to not be able to start my truck if the good key got lost or damaged. Lock the “good” key in the vehicle and use the manual door lock.

Can also give an extra cheap key to the hunting/skiing/ swimming buddy; first one back to the truck opens it up, starts it and cranks up the heat.

Using the manual door lock regularly ensures it works when you need it to.

 

I’m not sure if they still do but aaa used to give away a plastic credit card key for being a member. I had one many years ago, used it maybe twice. It did work to unlock the door but barely. It bent & felt like it was ready to break.