8 Month, $32,000 Repair

Just need to measure the gap between the bottom of the body and the top of the frame. They should be close to the same.

Pick whick side mount needs moved up or down.

Still, with all that is said, you chose to move your cab mounts. The cab mounts originally from the factory were CNC positioned and robot welded.

You chose for new ones to be mounted by a human. Humans can not duplicate robots.

There will be discrepancies in the position and the welds.

Regardless, those human welds look like shit. Those can not be tolerated.

 

But with some effort we can get darn close. This looks like the guy was welding while eating a sandwich and measuring with his knuckles.

 

No. I agree with getting close, not the welds.

It looks like a guy who watched a couple YT vids and told his boss he can weld to get the job.

I'm all for self taught, but if there is a chance you are in over your head, please, please call in some assistance.

Like you said, this is a very visible weld. You really can't get away with that.

It's a very simple weld. If you can get them cut off, any muffler shop will have a tech that can weld those back on with ease.

For what it's worth, I'm the guy that buys the wrecks that an above poster from the insurance company declares a total.

My last 6 Toyota trucks were totals that I buy from auction.

I straighten the frames or replace frames and body work to make them close to original.

I rebuild these trucks and drive them. I don't do this to sell them. I just like to put them back together. Everyone loves a puzzle.
The parts really only fit one way, so the puzzle is really not that difficult.

I have enjoyed this thread. Looking forward to future posts.

Kirk

 

Thanks for your contribution! Guys like you who share their knowledge about this stuff are what keep this site alive and thriving.

 

I'm presently putting back together a Tundra.

I farmed out the frame work.

Like you, I am disappointed in the welding, but happy with the frame work.

I already know that I will be removing the frame Tech's welds and redoing them.

So in short, I understand completely your thoughts process.

I can let some things slide, other things, not so much.

 

Project truck for reference.

 

Sorry if this is an idiot question, but wouldn't the best procedure for the body shop (or sublet shop) to have put the truck together first with the stock mounts, align and drive and make sure all is ok, and then swap in the new relocated mounts one side at a time after taking careful measurements? Just like folks that swap in these mounts on a running, driving truck?

 

I'm honestly surprised the insurance company and the body shop were on board with installing the cab mount relocation. The factory cab mount helps keep the tire from entering into the cabin in the event of a hard hit to the wheel/tire. By installing that themselves they basically made the vehicle less safe than in factory form.

Now I know you wanted those put back, just surprised they even approved to install it.

 

Yeah most likely. I doubt the thought went into it

 

I know of a few shops that refuse to install those for that reason.

 

I'm confident that if I had been the appraiser that we would've fixed the truck back to stock in that regard, and then reimbursed the customer to go have the modification done at a shop of his choosing. That way, it's on the customer.

Also, to the earlier question, I agree that even if the shop was going to do the mod, they should've repaired it back to stock initially, aligned/measured/fit everything, and then done the modification.

 

I asked for this option initially. Ill be pushing them to let me do it this time around

 

If you asked and they said no, they are 100% on the hook for making it right. Anyone from the shop or SF involved in that decision is a moron.

 

Yeah, I wish I had it in writing. Do you think Ill be able to get them to pay to fix it at an actual Tacoma focused fab shop?

 

Yes, ultimately. It's bad enough that they did the modification in the first place, let alone apparently did not do it correctly, and did it despite your objections. Shame on Caliber for not refusing to do the modification too.

This is a situation in which a good manager will realize that at some point, SF is on the hook and will step in and get it resolved appropriately.

When I was in the field, I viewed part of my job as preventing things from escalating beyond me. Some situations (like this one), a manager has to realize that if the complaint goes high enough up the chain, it's going to get paid, it's better to pay it now and prevent it from escalating in the first place. The last thing you want as a manager is someone above you saying "What the hell did you do, and why haven't you fixed it yet?"

 

Agreed. Should I go thru Caliber or thru State Farm to initiate the complaint? I don't feel like caliber offers much at this point.

 

State Farm. You used their recommended shop, they facilitated the repairs. Was it SF who did not honor your request to have the modification done at a shop familiar with such things?

 

I believe it was caliber. But they have been working hand-in-hand the whole time as they have in-house appraisers for SF at Caliber

 

It still rests with SF, since you used their recommended shop. It's good info to provide to SF that you raised this objection with Caliber, and Caliber chose to ignore you. Caliber acts as an agent of SF in this instance, so whatever they do, SF is also doing.

Here's my recommendation. Ask for the manager at SF. Tell the manager that you used their recommended shop, and the repairs have not restored your vehicle to pre-loss condition, neither appearance-wise nor quality-wise. They owe you pre-loss condition. Tell them specifically about the difference in the # of shims, the appearance of the modification, etc and that you told Caliber you didn't want them doing it and they did it anyway. Tell them about the other issues you've found as well. Tell SF that you expect SF to take steps to make everything correct and to fully indemnify you, which means returning your vehicle to pre-loss condition in all respects. Tell SF that you will not allow Caliber to do any additional work or corrective repairs and that you want shop XYZ to make the corrections (note - you may need 2 shops to do this, one for the modification and another, collision repair-type shop to correct the other issues). Tell SF that you will give them one opportunity to work with you on this and to make it right, and if they don't, you will hire a 3rd party (like Collision Safety Consultants, who is very good at what he does) to address the situation. No yelling, no threatening, be calm, be polite, but be direct.