How to test if UCA is bad?

Hey guys,

I have 2 like new UCA’s from a 3rd gen, but I don’t want to replace the ones I have now unless they are bad. This is mainly because of that long bolt.

Is there a reliable way to test the UCAs?

 

ball joints look fine, so your UCA are good.

 

How many miles do you have on the original UCA's?

 

180k

 

If you are going to be in there doing the front struts and got 180k out of the current UCA's... just swap em with the new ones.

The long bolt isnt bad, just remember to tighten things that have bonded rubber bushings with the truck at ride height (so all 4 tires on the ground). This includes the long UCA bolt, lower shock bolt, LCA to frame bolts.

 

Thank you. I appreciate your help.

 

10/100 its bad.

common method on the bolt is light gentle prying of surrounding metal to sneak it out, then reinstall facing the other (better) way. Torque to spec at right height

 

If you can get the bolt out, you can get it back in the correct direction.

 

Thank you

 

Agree here. While it's easier to install the bolt the reverse way (head toward rear and nut toward front of car), its likely safer to re-install the way Toyota did it (head toward front and nut toward rear). The angle of the upper A-arm mount should keep the bolt from falling out in the unlikely event that the nut loosens and falls off.

 

You can do whatever you want.
Mine is the other way which is common. I generally clean threads, put orange or blue loctite if it doesn't require red, and torque.
It may have been put that way without forethought (judging by the fact removing it requires either cab off or bending metal), and speed of assembly at the factory before the cab is married to the frame.
Toyota does not have a reputation for safety so that's pretty hard to buy. It's not Audi or Volvo.
If my truck is safe, it's not because of Toyota tin can doors, but because it's body on frame with lift, armor, easy to see, and rides higher than most other cars.

Some cars don't have it that way, nor at an angle at all.
Not once have I seen such a bolt come loose, including vehicles with 300k+.

I had an important bolt come loose before that someone else didn't tighten. It made noise. Pulled over and put it back on, no problem.
Not everything from the factory is good. Like an A/C drain tube that directs water to drip on an ungalvanized steel frame.

 

Nice to have additional anecdotes to back that up. I actually did put the bolt in the opposite of Toyota on the passenger side as I was really struggling to put it back in. Ended up doing blue loctite + double nut to secure it.

 

that's another way. Wasn't sure if there's room for a second nut
or upgrading to a better nut, like nylock
or, if you have a drill press; but this may weaken the metal and be PITA work: a small hole in the bolt end for safety wire (probably not enough room for a cotter pin) with or without castle nut (not that I'm gonna do any of that)