Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Was wondering the same thing as I’m in Colorado as well

 

Had my emissions done here (Denver Metro) a few months ago. No issues with the SC Tune passing. All they did was plug in to the OBD and read the ECU. Since Magnuson is CARB approved the CVN for the SC passed. I brought my #EO sticker with me just in case but they never asked for it. Simple in-and-out.

 

I had the identical experience; I was in and out in 10 minutes through Colorado (Jefferson County) emissions. No dyno/rollers, just a plug in and gas cap check. I have a catch can and was worried about it (I also do have the CARB sticker) but received zero questions or otherwise. I had considered flashing back to the Magnuson tune, but glad I didn't change anything.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone its eased my concerns, thats for sure!

 

What kind of mpgs are y’all with superchargers getting?

 

13mpg

 

It depends on so much, but with my longbed trdoffroad on kings and icon rxtleafs, 265/75r16 wild peaks, GFC camper, sliders, skid, c4 hybrid bumper, winch and lighting, with yotawerx Stryker tune, I average 15 mpg driving normally, if I take it easy I can get 18 but that me driving like a grandma and never going over 2k rpm

 

TRDOR/6MT with E-load tires just 1 inch larger than stock I get about 17-18 with very moderate mixed driving.

Daily, when I drive to and from work, which is under 10 minutes each way, it tanks to around 14. But that's short trips for ya.

FWIW, I use cruise control every possible second that I can. One might say I over use it. I hardly ever hammer on it, but I do rev it out when needed, especially when pulling my trailer with my sidexside or 1st gen on it. This truck, with supercharger, still gets better MPGs pulling my trailer loaded down than my 2nd gen 5.7L Crewmax tundra could ever dream of. Lol

If you're concerned about MPGs while looking at a supercharger then you're gunna be disappointed...

 

Thank you. My 2011 would only get 16s seemingly no matter how I drove it, GMA or normal, and most of my driving was without stop and go. Sounds like I’ll be just fine averaging close to that with a newer supercharged truck.

 

Stock 2020 LB AC, is stock with regard to tires, suspension, added weight; only carry a tonnau cover and about 250# of tools; and I average 19-20 MPG as a spirited driver, I drive a lot of back roads, so much that stock tires are about gone at 17k mi from cornering. Highway mileage is often similar, occasionally higher, and do not use cruise control, but do pay pretty close attention to maintaining a constant speed on the highway (which was impossible without the SC). However I have done a 'mechanical fan delete', and despite overwhelming opinion, I have the T-sensor for the variable speed electric fan, located at the radiator outlet (not at the engine outlet like most suggest); taking full advantage of available 'Free Air Cooling', before activating the electric fan. Some math calculations for the electric fan easily indicated it can consume 2 mpg or more while running. Full Disclosure, I also installed flapper vents in the fan shroud, and installed baffles behind the bumper and grille, to force more 'free air' through the radiators (something Toyota also provides in a TSB for poor AC performance). This and the Tonnau cover certainly helps. Anyhow, with how I drive the truck, I got noticably BETTER fuel economy AFTER installing the SC, than I was getting before. I did all the mods at once, so I cannot say which things made the biggest difference. I am certain that the YW tune correcting shift characteristics, is responsible for some of this improvement.

I agree!

Probably good advice; to prevent buyer remorse; but the outcome is not certain. The only problem I have with this approach, is that the SC so dramatically improves these trucks, I hesitate to discourage anyone that has interest. IMO, these trucks are just miserably pathetic to drive, until you add a SC.

 

Preach, brother.

 

I get about 1 mpg more or less than pre-SC. That being said, I get about 19 to 21 on highway with hills and about 15-16 around town. Stock 2020 LB with camper shell and a load of tools. I do enjoy accelerating briskly for the fun of it once in a while. That probably cuts into the milage but it is worth it for sure.

 

Thanks all for openly sharing your experiences and thoughts. I’m definitely looking forward to the power difference between stock and SC Tacoma. That said, I’m not handyman extraordinaire so I will using a shop. Any advice on what qualities to look for? This is new to me as I use dealerships for services. I know, I’m a sucker but I’m not handy.

 

I’m in the same boat in regards to install and had Toyota of Oxnard so my install. They were the least expensive, certified by magnuson and came with a dealer backed 12 month warranty as well.

 

Good point on if a shop is necessary, get it installed by using a shop that provides the certification and warranty. Thanks.

 

So over the weekend i was washing my truck in the am, it’s around 45F where i live at 930 am. I didnt warm up my truck before I decided to drive it down the block to help air dry after the wash. Going into the first long straight I decided to give er the beans, the temp guage was showing low, in the cold zone, and my truck went up in rpms, maybe 4500 - 5k, then suddenly dumped and was running rough, totally gutless. The check engine light came on, which was the only light on the dash flashing. I pulled over immediately and shut her down. I gave i a few minutes then restarted it, hoping to see the check engine light go away and the truck revert back to normal. It did, thank god, and i was able to drive home the rest of the block event free. Later that after noon i decided to drive it around the neighborhood to be sure it would be fine to drive to work come the am. It drove fine, no lights came on and the engine never hesitated like that again.not sure what happened here, anyone with any suggestions?

 

It has been highly recommended that you do not go into boost until the engine is closer to operating temps. Usually the first hash mark on the gauge is fine. If you do not wait, then it feels like you don't have a supercharger at all and it feels like the ECU is pulling all the timing out and making it fall on its face. But it's to protect the engine.

This is the first I've heard of it actually triggering a CEL and causing the truck to run rough... So that I can't comment on. Hopefully everything is fine, and the ECU was just doing it's job at protecting the engine, which it might have succeeded. I'd recommend hooking up a scanner and see if you have any pending or stored codes.

 

I knew better than to do that, was not thinking too clearly that am apparently… trust that wont happen again. Ill take your advise and hook up a scanner to see if there are any pending codes, thanks for the advice

 

I drove my truck to work this am, approximately 40 miles, averaging around 65 mph on the highway. I let the truck warm up properly this am, no lights on the dash at start up, and the truck sounded fine. It drove fine the whole way and nothing abnormal came up, i think I lucked out, but will still scan my truck asap with a scanner tool.

 

I’ve had the same thing happen 2-3 times in the 3 years I’ve had mine and always under the conditions that you describe. If I let it warm up I’ve never experienced an issue.