What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I could actually just clamp to the connector posts. But I hadn't thought of that.

 

That's true.
A plug will prevent you from having to crawl under the truck to get to the posts in a wet muddy section, plus if you add some protective covers to the posts to prevent unexpectedly letting the magic blue smoke out.

 

There are aircraft jumper plugs that could be employed for this purpose. Not cheap but would be very functional.

Jumper Cables:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186193093323

Receptacle Plug:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325764889798

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134811114285

Just an idea....................

Mike

 

With those cables do you not need extra sheathing for wear resistance?

 

I'd strongly recommend wrapping all those cables on the rear with some Techflex nylon sheathing to be safe. Not hard to do and well worth the extra peace of mind.

 

They still need to be zip tied into place. But they aren't going to move. I may wrap them with something. But they are tucked WAY up out of the way. And the sheathing on them is actually really thick. (like almost 1/8 inch thick).

 

Yeah I was thinking tech flex or spit loom.

Yeah I wasn't worried about stuff on the trails, just vibration against the metal parts its zip tied to. I looked up the brand and it looks like high quality sheathing but I think I would be paranoid with that much voltage regardless.

I just saw this which obviously could have been fixed with better wire routing but it could have def been a burned down truck.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/smoke-and-new-sound-coming-from-engine.86458/#post-2121547

Looks like cheap cable sheathing though too.

 

The one thing I've got going here is that wire isn't going to always be hot. It will only have current if I turn the disconnect on.

 

This is an awesome precaution IMHO!

Mike

 

Have done…….. absolutely nothing recently. Starter was acting up a few weeks back, ordered a rebuild kit and it’s been flawless since. Go figure.

Finally getting a bumper put on this thing in April, trying to get research done before then on what winch to throw in it.

 

Good stuff arrived today...

 

Loaded about 2,200# of granite onto a 1,200# 5x9 U-Haul ramp trailer for hauling 1, 200 miles north. I'll check back in on how the Taco pulls it.

 

Very nice!

I put a TruTrac Posi in my 5-lug 1994 pickup and it really gave me a fighting chance in the snow. Giving some thought to someday putting one in the Taco and 3rd Gen 4Runner.

Mike

 

Before, during and after reupholstering the bench seat. Wish I could say I did this myself but my sister did it as a gift.
The during pic is my work so you can see why I didn't take on this job myself

 

Completed a 1200 mile trip towing nearly 4,000# (trailer + granite).

Cross posting the below from an old TW towing post:

I was searching for the official towing capacity for my 1st Gen Taco 4x4 w/3.4L and A/T. I had recalled that it was published at 5,000# and just wanted to confirm that.

The reason I wanted to confirm it is because I just finished a 1200 mile trip from Dallas to Appleton, Wisconsin towing a 5x9 U-Haul Ramp trailer (1200#) and about 2500# of granite countertops and the experience was less than inspiring. I have 120K miles on my rig and when I got it at 116K miles I immediately drained and flushed the trans fluid with Valvoline full synthetic fluid and installed an aux transmission fluid cooler in series with the OEM radiator cooler.

For the first half of the trip I used the ECT button. This allowed for a sensitive downshift on grades which there were plenty of in Oklahoma and Missouri. On one really long slight grade I was maintaining between 65-70mph and the A/T had downshifted out of OD. This long grade tripped the A/T Oil Temp light and when it did I immediately let up off the throttle to allow OD to engage and the light immediately went out. I was able to make 60mph up the grades without the light tripping again. I must add that this high oil temp light tripped with an OAT (Outside Air Temp) of about 55°F.

The next day covering the remaining 500 miles I did NOT use the ECT button which left the transmission in OD for longer periods of 65mph and when the hill grades came a downshift out of OD occurred. With an OAT this day further north of about 30°, I experienced one tripping of the A/T Oil Temp light, which went out immediately after I backed off the throttle.

For background, here is what my Owner's Manual says about the "A/T Oil Temp" light:
Automatic Transmission Fluid

"Temperature Warning Light
This light warns that the automatic transmission fluid temperature is too high. If this light comes on while you are driving, slow down and pull off the road. Stop the vehicle at a safe place and put the selector lever in “P”. With the engine idling, wait until the light goes off. If the light goes off, you may start the vehicle again. If the light does not go off, call a Toyota dealer or qualified repair shop for assistance."

I researched the temp which triggers the A/T Oil Temp light and found a TW post stating 302°F was the triggering temp.

On the flat sections of northern Illinois and Wisconsin, the truck was able to pull at up to the 70mph speed limit and more when needed in OD.

The engine coolant temperature never varied from slightly below half scale deflection and this is the normal position of the needle in all driving conditions and speeds without trailer towing.

Gas mileage was between 12-14mpg while towing and the gas purchased beyond Missouri was predominantly 87 octane (Illinois gas prices are hideous). In Texas, OK and MO the gas purchased was primarily 91-93 octane.

So, my final thoughts for towing loads approaching the published max towing weights on slight/modest grades at Interstate speeds in my 3.4L, A/T is:

1. have a good synthetic fluid in your A/T to get the extra temp and performance protection

2. Install an aux transmission cooler, which gives additional cooling capacity as well as additional fluid capacity to the paltry (IMHO) 2 quart A/T fluid capacity listed in my Owner's Manual. I may evaluate going with a bigger aux cooler considering that the OATs I was operating in were very mild, with >100°F Texas summer temps this trip likely would have been a disaster.

3. I believe the A/T Oil Temp light was designed into the vehicle because the engineers suspected/knew the A/T was borderline for towing the rated/published loads, especially up hills. It is shocking that the A/T has such a small 2qt published capacity . I can't remember how much fluid I used when I did the flush/fill. I drained, ran for a few miles then filled about 3X to insure a good flush of all the old fluid.

Any other heavy towing thoughts for the 3.4L w/AT are welcome.

Mike

 

Yuck!

 

Yeah you should have just left Over Drive off most the time especially on hills. You want the torque convert to be locked up as much as possible to stop it form slipping which is what generates the heat. I've towed a covered trailer 1500ish miles with no issues.

It also is a VERY good investment to buy an ultra gauge or scan gauge to monitor the transmission temps. You don't want it to go above 220 really. It's not good for the fluid.

Aux cooler helps a lot, not sure how small yours is, but mine helps quite a bit and I've only boiled it once which was 100º temps and offroading going up very steep sections for multiple hours(morrison Jeep trial). Otherwise it's pretty easy to monitor it and stop it from getting to hot.

Also the transmission should be taking closer to 4 quarts for a drain and fill. So...that could be your issue. I under filled mine as well the first time. Especially since you added an external cooler it'll take more than 2.

 

@betterbuckleup specifically, because I know you just filled your Diamond housing.

@ToyRyd04 @02hilux or anyone else with a custom housing.

How the hell am I supposed to know how much oil to put in this thing? LOL

Stock housing, you just fill until it gets to the fill hole. I'm sure there is a "too full." How did you guys know?