Climate control potentiometer part?

I have replaced it but still is doing the same thing. What do you think could be a problem is it my Hore or is it my receiver? I don’t know where to stop

 

So what is your solution to this problem? I even have replaced my control panel and lights up green but if you just kind of mess it on the heat and cold, it gives me just bad you know heat which is if you are switching to cold position

 

Well, I have changed the control panel unit. What do you mean you’re gonna change the whole unit is it gonna make it receiver? What else do I need to know to be able to make it work

 

I also experienced the issue so I got whole new unit from the junkyard for like $25. Works so far and I am still looking into fixing the original for a backup... Been searching for the knob part on all sites like McMaster but no luck thus far...

 

Man I can’t get cold air I don’t know what’s wrong with my A/C

 

@Tsean check and see if the actuator under the glove box is moving when you move the temperature control.

 

I ended up de soldering the center control knob and bending up the pins on the potentiometer and adding some grease. Been working for a week or so now.

 

The Highlander one is available on Amazon. You'd have to desolder the potentiometer from the small board and solder into your board.

$144 Dorman 599-040 Climate Control Module Repair Kit Compatible with Select Toyota Models (OE FIX)

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-599-040-Climate-Control/dp/B01D8VMBL8

 

Man struggle is real. I really appreciate for your input. Do you have more info about? How did you soldier to the board? I would love to know man it’s been hot inside my truck. I still wondering how to solve this AC to be able to work

 

Should I buy this one or Jayne? Will I be able to make it work? If I order this did actually work on yours when you put this piece together thanks man,

 

@Tsean
So I ended up having a family member help me de-solder since it requires removing 7 pins at once, we used a 'hot air solder' instead of a direct hot iron. He has a nice setup since he builds motherboards.



Short term solution so you arent dying of heat:
You can check under the glove box for a cable that connects to an arm which operates the 'blend door' which is essentially a flap that moves to open the AC vent or heat vent and direct that to your console vents.

You can disconnect this cable from the arm and manually move it to AC position to check the AC works that way. I had to do this the opposite way prior to fixing this since I lost heat and its -5 degrees here...

I would also check to make sure this is 100% the part that is failing. (probably is but helps to make sure)

That Amazon part you linked looks interesting since it doesnt seem to require any soldering. Looks like it would replace the ribbon cable with that one and youd need to find a way to mount that knob so its stable (assuming it works). But thats a pretty penny when you could also snag a full unit from ebay for same price or a scrap yard for much much cheaper.

I was also discussing with my family member (who helped me and builds motherboards) that we MAY be able to just build new ones if we can find the schematics, so if anyone has info on that we may be able to do something. I stress MAYBE, dont want to make promises.

 

I trying to find the old potentiometer I took apart (it's somewhere in my garage) to send to a company to see about making a batch of custom potentiometers. I've talk to them over the phone about it already.

 

The one from Amazon would have to ber desolder and soldered into our a/c controller board,

 

Thank you so much I was able to figure out and reverse it and works perfect now

 

Awesome, did you end up desoldering it? or what was your fix

 

I can almost guarantee you can find it off the shelf if you look hard enough

 

I searched and searched these forums and every part supplier I could find. If youre able to locate one please let us know, would help a bunch of people on here.

 

If you give me the readings I may be able to help

 

Sure what do you need exactly?

 

The resistances between all of the 7 pins (same thing a new supplier would need to know)