rear wheels dragging causing terrible mpg?

You need to fix the leaks first. The sensors won't operate properly if you have leaks. Since it likely needs replacement (probably rusted too much to do a repair), might as well replace the sensors (use Denso). If you are short on cash, get the leaks fixed first and see what happens.

 

Oxygen sensors are not "wear parts", you're thinking of brake pads and shocks

Are you saying all oxygen sensors should get replaced at 10 years? That's ridiculous..

 

generally yeah, give or take. It’s a cheap replaceable part that wears out. Replacing it at that time on any vehicle is common. An O2 sensor from the same supplier on any other car used on a Toyota isn’t any different.

literature on the topic agrees.

if folks wanna run 10+ yo sensors potentially malfunctioning that’s fine.

 

I wouldn't say replacing O2 sensors at 10 years is common. Sounds like some hack shit that shops say when they don't want to do any troubleshooting.. or if they're trying to wring money out of a customer

If there are known exhaust leaks fix those first

 

got the obd scanner my bank 1 long fuel is around 13.3 % when i’m on the gas say highway driving normally and bank 2 long is 14.3 when i’m on the gas

 

i just checked the fuel banks long and short
long seems to be bank 1 13.3 and bank 2 14.3

 

That's a little high and would explain the poor mileage. LT trims should be under 8-10%

Absolutely an exhaust leak can cause the system to over-fuel

 

shops don’t troubleshoot worn components. Theres nothing to troubleshoot.
$230 an hour to look at a worn sensor
Or replacement for similar cost.

$230 to look at a worn sensor is what would be a scam.

it’s like if a car has 90k asking about a timing belt. There’s nothing to look at. It needs a timing belt.

but again if folks wanna run that, that’s fine.

 

O2 sensors aren't made out of rubber..

I'm not ignoring known exhaust leaks and throwing O2 sensors at it because of "age"

That's some hack shit

 

neither are pulleys and tensioners.

never said to

 

so engine is running lean only under load though idle it’s under 10% it’s like 1-2% or goes negative

 

how should i go about fixing the leaks? muffler cement stuff? weld? i don’t got cash to get new pipes right now. you think throwing the muffler back on would make that much of a difference of running lean or not?

 

determine what is leaking and what repair is needed. You can smoke test. Audio test. Or spray soapy water such as when it’s cold to see where it’s coming from.

good condition used parts are cheaper than new.

leak effect on MPG would be determined by location. If it is near the O2 sensors it will mess with them.

mufflers exist to muffle sound and is downstream of the O2’s.

One method i haven’t used before is smoke test with something like seafoam that white smokes out the tailpipe when burned. In theory if you have an exhaust leak that would help show it by the gas escaping from the leak being visible, rather than normal invisible gas.

traditional smoke test tool is another way, but that’s an expensive tool.

 

okay thank you so much man thank you everyone i appreciate the responses

 

others already noted but the speed would be your e brake but that looks right you want some level of that there.

 

replace spark plugs, cleaned the MAF?

 

nope didn’t replace sparks i might do them tomorrow because i’m not sure the last time they were ever changed. i did clean the MAF sensor though

 

Dude, don't throw parts at it that you don't need. If you have an exhaust leak and have removed the muffler, fix that shit first. Those other components are just trying to do their jobs, but they are getting shit information to do it with due to the exhaust issues.

Without looking at the vehicle, nobody can say what the best way to fix the leaks is. Being a northern vehicle that has already had the frame replaced, your pipes are likely toast. There might be some short-term improvements with muffler cement, but neither that nor welds will stick on old rusty exhaust pipes. Sorry you don't have the cash, but your choices are to fix it or live with the shit mileage and leaks. There's no shortcut here. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to save you some cash throwing money at the wrong things.

 

Pictures of the exhaust. All of it, as best you can.

 

They can certainly get "slow" with age and be less accurate. Replacement interval would not be age based though because driving conditions and fuel quality would be the main determinant.