6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Hmm I thought you use the FJ master? At least that’s what I bought lol

they look different that’s for sure.

 

The FJ pedal attaches to the Tacoma clutch master cylinder with the clevis extension that you fabricate. It also has a bracket to accommodate the pedal stop that you will make as requires by Tilton. Bill covers this all in detail at this he beginning of the thread it's reiterated in the kit Install Notes.

From wear and deformation of the cast aluminum you'll likely find some high and low spots along the length of the quill. You only want to remove the absolute minimum. To navigate those waters you can use some layout dye, sharpie marker or a sharpie marker AND an air hose to make your own DIY layout dye and coat the shaft. As you lightly sand around the circumference of the quill with 120-220grit emery you'll begin to find the hills and valleys indicating where you should be focusing your efforts more. Test fitment with the threaded sleeve as you go.

I only have a cheapie airline vacuum bleeder and honestly it never works for me. I'm curious if a fancy unit would make short work of it though.

It's not required but it's certainly an upgrade over the plastic Tacoma clutch master cylinder being that the housing is actually cast aluminum with this one. Tacoma one has the ball tip that sits inside the plastic Tacoma clutch pedal, whereas the FJ one has a more familiar clevis pin attachment to the metal FJ pedal. The connection method to the pedal is swappable in each case regardless of what master cylinder you end up using.

 

What method do you use? I’ve tried the. Heap hand held vacuum one and couldn’t get it to work

 

The threads were so mean!

 

I've got a MityVac bleeder I used and that didn't work for me, then back-bled it with a syringe like I do tricky-to-bleed KTM clutch master cylinders and that didn't work either.

That's when I reached out to Tilton and they recommended not doing those, only to use the method I mentioned earlier. Using their technique, the system bled easily. Something about the piston moving too fast when pedal is fully depressed to properly bleed and other methods being hard on the seals. I didn't bother to question their logic because their method worked like a charm.

 

Post #4 edited as part of the thread cleanup I was assigned.

I just went through the thread and copied the most relevant posts and pasted them into that one post.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...utch-system-shenanigans.698464/#post-24723726

 

My man!! That's a huge help thank you. I'm about to assemble and had multiple pages bookmarked.

 

I have another question: what keeps that threaded sleeve from rotating in or out over time? The Tilton throwout has a tab attached to the anti-rotation bracket yes, but that sleeve is just threaded into the Tilton and sits against the base of the quill.

 

Technically nothing. Other than the snug fitment and axial "pressure" from the bearing being in contact with the pressure plate fingers. If Tilton engineers were concerned about it moving I'm sure they would have added set screws to the sleeve.

 

Anyone want to buy mine? Already mated to the 9036345013 OEM bearing. Also including all the parts from Kasbien to make this work for your Tacoma

400 shipped

 

All installed and bled. Adjusted and set the pedal stop. We were definitely way overthrowing the Clutchmaster's TOB. The throw after adjusting the stop on the Tilton is super short. Super short. Which makes sense with the way you set the stop. It doesn't need to move that far to do it's job

 

Does the pedal have super short movement as well? I kind of like having more travel on the clutch pedal to better feather it but I will deal with short clutch pedal travel if it means getting rid of this bloody chirp.

 

Yes it does. At least for me. I also prefer a longer stroke (pun intended) but if this setup works long term I'll get used the shorter pedal movement. It's a trade off I'm willing to make.

 

Anyone have any luck sourcing one of the Russel speed bleeders? Mine has been on back order from Russel themselves (which is apparently Edelbrock) for over a month. I know it is not required but would be nice.

Every site I've reached out to has said they're waiting on shipment from manufacturer. At least the fj pedal finally shipped.

 

Anyone need a fj master cylinder? I have one.

 

Mine was on back order for months (and if it still is, I'm guessing that part might be discontinued). I ended up getting the -3an Russell bleeder and then used a -3an to -4an adaptor to mate it to the Tilton bleed line.

 

I have this as a backup but was hoping to not have to reduce it just to satisfy my OCD. Not a big deal though.

 

If you are using the braided line from master to Tilton that came with the CM kit, you will need a AN3 to AN4 adapter.

 

I had mine cut off and changed to a -4an hose ends. Made it easier to deal with.

 

Had the Kasbien kit installed this week. So far feels great. Only problem I have is the cruise control isn’t working. I have one wire that I don’t know where it goes that’s could potentially be the cause. Anyone recognize this single wire?