Home Improvement Today?

bottom left corner, looks like a sad face

 

HAHA that it does! Thanks for bringing my real emotions of this situation to light

 

really, looks like the decorative trim was where everything started going wrong to begin with. with a normal pvc siding corner, it would
overlap all the way through the corner, essentially protecting the house wrap and keeping the water off the house. with the decorative trim on the edge, j-channel was needed to stop the siding at the trim, and then it naturally left an 1/8" gap for 2 vertical stories, which perfectly directed any and all rainwater falling off the decorative trim down the edge, against the poorly-protected house wrap, and right to the joists.

i'm not entirely familiar with that kind of exterior finish, though j-channel is quite common around windows and the like. from what i've seen in those cases, the decorative edge is formed with aluminum sheeting(to create overlaps between material, like vinyl siding components do), and there's also a bead of caulk that's ran between the j-channel and the decorative aluminum edge to reduce the chance of rainwater using the vertical surface as a highway to the wood underneath

 

no bueno

 

Nailed it.

Big time no bueno.

Where to start on fix? I'm pretty handy but correcting rotten joists may be out of league....

 

do you have access to the interior part of the beams via a crawl space/unfinished basement? i'm curious how far they run into the house

 

Fixing cantilevered joists can be a mess

 

Just opened up some soffit in my dining room thinking they would be empty like the ones in the remaining portions of the house. Nope. Cantilevered joists for the overhang of the flat roof. I’m a decent DIY guy but definitely not dealing with this. My uncle in law is an architect and was going to measure and draw it all up for an engineer. Don’t think there’s much I can do really.

 

Yes, I have a finished basement i'll go down there later and get a measurement.

The more I though about ways of supporting, while replacing.....the more I knew it may be something out of my wheelhouse.

Sorry to hear you're having the same problem. Hope it all works out! I'm thankful this is just underneath the fireplace/furnace exhaust area lol

 

It can be depending on how much electric and plumbing in in the way for the sisters. At least he's got a basement and isn't stuck working in a crawl space. lol

@AKSig88 Pull the rim joist and take a look in the bays. Then go inside and cut out the drywall in the lid in that area. If you can slide sisters in 2/3 or more of the length of the cantilever it's an easy repair.

 

Took a tape measure to them and they are all roughly just shy of 8ft or 2.43m for our good friend @OZ-T. Here are some images from the basement looking at the joists in question.


I took the plywood that was covering the joists underneath and I can get access to all of the joists. As shown in the original pics, the LH and RH outside joists need replacing as well as rim joist.
What do you all think? This goes without saying, I appreciate all of your guys' time! There are some vents I and gas black pipe I need to clean up still, I just switched to an electric water heater from gas so things to need to be buttoned up there haha

 

I got about 85% of my cuts done for the patio furniture before I ran out of light today. 84 didn’t have any non-treated 2x2 so I’m heading to Lowe’s in the morning to get a bit of that, then I’ll be ready to finish cutting and start gluing and screwing.

 

the best answer? for liability and workmanship reasons, it's probably better to start getting prices from capable carpenters.

can it be done? with enough stubbornness, absolutely. with buddies, i would rate this a pretty serious '6-8 cases of beer over 3-4 weekends' kind of task.

those joists are supporting your fireplace, hearth, and the flooring area just behind the hearth. the only way to get those out is to basically mangle and twist them out. the new joists would also need to be pushed in and twisted into place. removal is going to pull all the nails out of the sub floor, making the sub floor for the entire area supported, but unattached--floating. ideally, you need to be cutting off the subfloor nails(for removal), then shoot them back in from the top down, which will likely take removal of the fireplace, possibly the hearth. if there's carpeting in that room, the carpeting can be pulled back to re-nail the subfloor to the joists. .

more than likely, there's going to be issues with noise and in some cases floor rippling, as everything's going to be moved and shifted around to force the new joists in, and there's going to be plenty of area's that just simply can't be re-nailed as tight as it was before.

it's probably best to leave to a pro, if for nothing else, the liability, implied warranty, and their experience from past installations, will all be cheaper in the long run.

 

If the gas is getting removed the only thing in your way is electrical but you might not even need to move that. Go outside and measure the length of the chase. Then multiply it by 3. Then go inside measure from the rim joist to those electrical wires. If those wires are further away then 3 times the chase you can just sister new joists to the existing. For the outside corner joist you'd sister it the the inside. Then get a fine tool and cut back to framing. Spray the shit out of it with copper coat and replace the piece you removed with a new one nailed to the sister you just added.

 

I appreciate your guy's honesty feedback and I would agree for liability and warranty I'm going to start getting quotes. I just had the fireplace and floors done so any damage to this would be devastating, so professional repair it is.


Again, thank you all. I'll report back to what happens!

 

Hey guys, I am going through my house replacing a bunch of thresholds that are coming up and I've reached this one....I believe that this was installed by the previous owner completely wrong and was hoping y'all might have some insight on how I might correct it easily. While I have basic handyman skills, I wouldn't be what you would call a skilled laborer or a true DIYer.

Any thoughts?

 

I have no idea about the comparisons where you live, but by me the 84 lumber has the same crap quality lumber that HD and lowes has, only at a more expensive price.

 

biggest thing is to figure out the requirements you need.

for starters, you'll need the length across the door opening, the width of the entire area you're looking to cover(just measure from outside edge to outside edge of the currently-hacked double-transition pieces), the height difference between surfaces( take 2 of the same size flat blocks/nuts/books, place one on the tile, one on the wood, use a ruler to go across them, and measure the difference).

and finally, if this is a door that can close instead of just an open doorway, if the wood-side is higher than the doors bottom edge, you'll also need the maximum height and distance into the area when the door is closed to determine how fast/thick the transition can rise up to the wood surface level.

after that it's a question of what's available with how you want to attack it--making something available to work out of the box, further altering a standard stock item by sanding/planing, or getting something custom made for your situation. pre-made will be cheapest, alteration stands the risk of damage and re-buying an item to fix it, and custom finished has custom pricing.

https://houzewoodshop.net/custom-large-oak-wood-threshold-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195625131620

https://www.etsy.com/listing/621852335/wood-threshold-saddle-sill-floor-door

 

All done with cutting, gluing, and screwing. Now I just have to sand (a lot), stain, and seal.

How it started:



How it’s going:

 

Any tips for trimming out a Skylight that wasn't installed centered into the opening. Both side to side and top to bottom. A customer had a new roof installed and had 2 skylights installed by the roofers. It's obvious nobody checked on the inside. It's not a full drywall return as part of the rafter is exposed and you can see the old paint line from the trim that was there before....like a box. Probably 3 or so inches from the old paint line to the Skylight.

3/4" stock will be too thick on one side and will be proud of the Skylight frame on the other. Maybe 5/4" on those sides?

I was thinking 3/4 stock (like a box) with some 1/2" or 3/4' cove moulding along the bottom exposed edge of the 3/4. The cavity is painted the wall color as it's a vaulted ceiling.

The other one is so far up in the opening there will be a gap regardless of what I use. The trim will be over the glass. And on the bottoman 3/4 stock isn't thick enough and won't contact the frame at all. There will be a visible gap.

Hope I explained that right.

Similar to this pic less some of popcorn drywall and tighter at the top.