Another Crank No Start | OBD2 No Comm + Xmas Tree Inst Panel w/Bonus ‘It hasn’t run in months’

So I got impatient and went ahead to get the TIS 48 hour thing. Of course there were issues, but when I called Toyota, I was informed it was all on their side (woohoo!). Chatted with the gentleman to explain how I'm going to fix this damn truck, hoping he could delay my 48 hour pass until Friday because I should have waited to begin with. He did even better and extended it through Sunday OMG!!!! I got logged in and HOLY HELL SWEET MOTHER OF PEARL IT's THE MOST BEAUTIFUL THING to have laid my eyes on in years........a metric f*ck-ton of data (NOT related to network and infrastructure assets deployed at an organization in the health insurance sector)!! There is SO much truck data here, the USGS probably registered a reading on the Richter scale from me having fallen out of my chair. It's the simple things in life

 

It’s a good thing.
And we should be thankful Toyota made it available to the public.
Dm93 could probably tell you the cost of other manufacturers subscriptions services.
Some are $1,000+ per year.

 

Not for nothing but if you manage to track this down you will have a deeper understanding of electrical systems in a truck than a LOT of people I know. They can be challenging.

Have you considered pulling the PCM and just having it tested? I know it sounds defeatist...but having had a car get hit by lightning this sounds an awful lot like my car and I needed a new PCM.

https://siaelec.com/product/toyota-tacoma-ecm-ecu-repair-return/

 

Hello! I have indeed pondered getting it tested, and I very much appreciate the link. Heck, had this been a few months ago, it may have already been sent off without checking much else. However, I've really been...enjoying? I'm not sure of the word because the whole scenario is aggrevating, but I do like walking out there and lifting the hood and actually recognizing what things are, knowing what some of them do, etc. The wiring - the first time I saw the spectracolor mess it was overwhelming. Now I know that after you break it down a bit, it isn't so bad. I guess you could say I'm having fun with all of this..maybe in a self-torture kind of way Once I get all the relevant wires tested - which I should be able to knock more out this weekend - if all the signs point to it, then it will definitely be tested/repaired/replaced.

Was there anything else besides the PCM to replace in your case?

 

I had two modules that were bad...and not even a blown fuse. A PCM and a module with the climate control system. Seeing as how this was a modern Volvo I am shocked that was all that was bad...they have about eleventy billion different black boxes in them.

 

Hello again Tacoma World - I'm checking back in, still here/still alive and still kicking. This latest update still doesn’t quite have me where I’d like to be (with 2 running vehicles) thanks to the weather. In fact, we just had a nice storm knock out power today for several hours - long enough to remind me how miserable the heat and humidity are here, and thankful for generators that run (unlike the vehicles). Anyways, about that progress I mentioned:

1.) After 4 days of playing real-life Tetris with boxes of crap, I almost have room in the workshop to relocate the Tacoma out of the elements. This should offer some flexibility to work on it at night. Plus, I’m next to the tools and out of the sun.

2.) Finally got the 2014 Tacoma FSM and wiring diagrams downloaded from the TIS website. Also got some nice info on Techstream, proper trailer wiring, and all kinds of useful docs. It’s nice that all of this is available at an affordable price to mere mortals such as me, as I try to play mechanic. I have a world of respect for the trade based upon the contortion alone.

3.) Being a tech person by trade, naturally I’m interested in the diagnostic software options, so I used the bad weather time to familiarize myself with Techstream, CONSULT (Nissan) and a few other options. I can now rattle off acronyms such as J2534, ELM, and honorable mention VAG-COM, and almost sound knowledgeable about it. I learned about breakout boxes and of course ordered one (albeit a cheap one). Then I purchased the relevant diagnostic cables from Amazon, and what a shock to find they were packaged with several diagnostic packages including… wait for it….Techstream and CONSULT. The questionable-origin version of CONSULT seems to work and hasn’t bricked the Juke yet, plus it finally provided justification for me having kept all of my old laptops since Windows 95. Techstream runs and appears functional, but I haven’t done anything outside of sifting through the menus.

If I’m understanding how this works, I believe I can use the breakout box to test components (like ECM) separately or even removed from the vehicle? At least it appears to be an option if I strike out with the CAN communication issue. I probably have another few days until the Tacoma can be moved into the workshop and the diagnostic frenzy can begin. Still need to track down that ground short thing as well.

Thanks again for the knowledge and guidance, and especially the kindness

I'll be back!

 

Any updates?

 

I know it has been awhile, but actually do have an update!

Apologies for long post, but there's lots of info. For the recent stuff, scroll to "3.) Almost there"

Hello again Tacomaworld. I've been out of service for awhile but am back for as long as the aggravating ailment will allow. I have somewhat of an update even though it has been more than several months. Truck still doesn't run, but I did manage to get it moved into the workshop. I have been out there off and on the past couple of weeks refamiliarizing myself with truck I formerly called either Harry or Dusty due to all the dog hair (from prior owner) and dirt (from spouse) buried in it. I've been cleaning as I go and even managed to make my way under the back end of truck to see what it looked like, which is why I now call the truck "Rusty". Kinda floored at the amount of rust under it, but hey, it's a Toyota and I've seen what they do to them on Top Gear lol.

1.) Refresher on issue:

• Original issue was the crank/no start/no CEL/No communication with the Xmas tree combination meter lights.
• I can't believe I'm typing this, but this was mid/end 2022:
• There was a storm the night before and lightning hit close enough around the house to destroy my cable modem.
• The next morning the truck would not start/not communicate with scan tool, lost of lights on dashboard. There isn't any evidence of a direct hit on the truck, but from what I've read, it doesn't matter. At this point, it may or may not have been a lightning strike that did this.
• Spouse replaced the crankshaft position sensor a couple of weeks later. Nada.
• TW geniuses patiently guided me through testing powers and grounds on the ECM (aka PCM) and several components, and testing resistance on CANBUS.
• Possibilities included - but were not limited to - bad ECM, shorted CANBUS.
• Life intervened and I had to drop from existence for several months.

2.) Of interest:

• The trailer lights on this truck never worked from what I recall. Spouse confirmed.
• I can't tell if this is a factory installed towing package - it has the frame mounted hitch and the 7 pin connector and what looks like the towing converter relay, but I also see a number of connectors that might be related to trailer wiring, but not connected, but probably were at some point. Will be coming back to this one.

3.) Almost there:

• I may have been out of commission, but I've still worked to make progress.
• Procured a bench tester, a cheap diag cable, Techstream of questionable origin, and some freebie OBD programs. Eventually tested the ECM from the Tacoma...and got nothing.
• Procured one of the pre-programmed ECMs from the Interwebs and spouse intalled, saying he followed the directions. Because I knew he'd try to crank it, I insisted he change oil, add fresh gas etc. Spoiler alert - it did not start.
• Tacomaworld diagnosed this one - ECM was def part of the problem as I now get the 12v readings on the ECM powers that I didn't get before.
• I don't think the ECM reset using the jumper at the DLC port is working, but I honestly don't know how to tell with all the combo meter lights already being lit up.
• Got truck moved into workshop and what a difference it makes! I can go out there any time now yay!! I started dillying with it just before Christmas, which leads me to where things are at now.

4.) Where it's at:

• I got 2 turntables and a microphone. Actually, I still got a Tacoma w/crank no start and no comm, but I also have a bad-ass little work area and almost every tool I think I would need.
• The possible good news...there is a check engine light solid/not flashing.
• There's still the plethora of other lights; several were addressed by performing the action, like airing up the tires getting rid of the Tire Pressure Warning Light. This leaves me with:
  • 1st gauge/All Solid: CEL, Battery, Slip Indicator, Maintenance Req'd and SRS warning light.
  • 2nd gauge: Solid Low engine oil pressure warning light
  • 3rd gauge: Solid ABS/Brake | Flashing 4-wheel Drive indicator and Flashing 4LO indicator

5.) Communication and other whatnot:

• The standard cheap code reader I usually rely on powers up, scans, then says it can't communicate.
• Techstream knockoff won't communicate with the Engine/ECT, Cruise Control, ABS/VSC/TRAC, Combination Meter, or Occupant Detection.
• Techstream knockoff WILL communicate with Tire Pressure Monitor, Immobiliser and SRS Airbag. Only the SRS Airbag has a code - B1650.
• To ensure I was getting actual data, I deflated the tires and it reflected properly in the Techstream-KO app. That was exciting.
• The results were the same with the old ECM as they have been with the new ECM, however, at some point, the YAW rate sensor appeared briefly with the new ECM. It was a random appearance and not immediately after the new ECU install, leading me to think the CANBUS is possessed. Another Spot-On TacomaWorld geniuses diagnoses.
• Resistance between pins 6 and 14 for canbus is still that weird 3.4 reading, even with e14 unplugged. However, if I disconnect the combinator meter it jumps up to about 110. I haven't tried disconnecting the other components on the canbus yet as part of this. I did attempt to test resistance on the combo meter, and it was also that weird 3.4 reading I think. I will freely admit the Airbag sensor scares me, so I steer clear of it.
• I do have easy access to most of the canbus components like combo meter, the 2 can junction connectors j18/j19, yaw rate sensor, center airbag sensor, ecm, steering angle sensor.
• I also have a cheap oscilloscope (Hantek 1008C) that..well...I've unboxed. I did finally set it up but have not connected it to anything on truck yet because there is still a lot to learn in that area.

6.) Finally:

• In the poking around the last 2 weeks, I've tried to make sure wires haven't been chewed, etc. and have been over every part of this truck with the exception of under the engine area. I did managed to spot something not right around the area of that crankshaft sensor, like a bracket or mount loose. Photo attached. This reminded me of that sensor spouse put in. I'm working up the motivation as we speak to crawl under there to see what's up.
• Thinking back, I had done a bench read on the new ECM out of curiousity and it was nice to see something other than it can't communicate. I did this after spouse had installed and tried to start it. The ECM/Engine and Cruise Control modules appeared on the Techstream knockoff for this beanch read, along with some codes, but I didn't research them because I wasn't thinking it would be related to anything for some reason. Screenshot attached. I'll read through the manual and do some research. Maybe this is wiring related?

• • P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
  • P0020 - "B" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
  • P0102 - Mass Air Flow MAF Circuit Low
  • P2438 - Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow/Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 2

After 3 years of not working, spouse is finally going back to work. The running vehicle we have is a gas guzzler; it is beyond time to resurrect the Tacoma. I feel like it is getting close and will give myself at least another week (as long as I physically can) trying before being forced to take to a mechanic that would probably charge more than can be afforded anyways.

Any additional guidance to help speed up my slow paced progress would be beyond appreciated. I feel like I personally have come a long way from being completely intimidated by the whole thing to where I can pop off different panels and covers to get to wiring and quickly test using the CORRECT leads. All thanks to the kind folks on this forum. Either way, I'll post this week with whatever progress - or lack thereof - occurs. Please excuse me now as I try to find my way underneath the front end of this truck!

 

I'll have to read though all this tonight but props to you for sticking with it, most people would have given up by now and towed it somewhere.

 

Got a chance to read through all of this and wow I wish more people gave even half that detailed and well organized replies.
In any case I'll try to get through this in an organized fashion.

The more we get into this the more confident I am that it was lightning weather a direct hit or indirect effect (EM pulse from a nearby strike), Jake (Automotive Diagnostics & Programming) recently had a series of videos on an 18 Silverado that got hit by lightning and had multiple fried modules and sensors.

Yea we can deal with this once we get the truck running.

So it would seem the Meter CAN circuit is shorted for sure, based on the info I can find on the CAN Bus one of the 120 ohm termination resistors is in the PCM and the other is in the Meter so it would make sense so see 110 ohms with the Meter unplugged.
You could see if you can talk to stuff with the Meter unplugged, some CAN systems will communicate with a missing terminating resistor and others will not but it's worth a shot.

Nice, while it's no Picoscope it should be more than sufficient to diagnose pretty much any issue on your truck that requires a scope.

Looks like a bracket that holds a wiring harness in place, probably goes on a bolt somewhere nearby.

It would make sense to have circuit codes for various stuff if your powering up the PCM off the vehicle as none of it is connected.
Cruise Control shows up as a separate module on Toyota but it's really the PCM.

That's good that it looks like we have a good PCM, I think if we can get the CAN bus online and get the immobilizer reset it should start providing no other critical sensors got fried.
Immobilizer registration/reset procedure below.

 

I would be in total agreement with this being lightning related. The ECM alone would have made this an expensive trip to a mechanic. I'm watching these videos now...wondering what fun lies ahead

I want to say I tried that and still couldn't get anything to connect, but I may have had something else unplugged in addition to it. I'll def try it again with only the combo meter disconnected. I tried following the manual to test the canbus with the multimeter and got frustrated thinking I was doing something wrong. Although I'm using a cheap multimeter, there's 3 of them out there, and all 3 multimeters reflected the same thing with those low resistance readings at the DLC and Combo meter.

Would it help to test resistance of can-h can-l wires for all the things connected to the canbus to see if it reads something way out of range? As mentioned, I have access to them with covers removed, etc.

a. Skid control ECU
b. ECM
c. Steering angle sensor - I want to say this one tested ok with the resistance, but I will double check.
d. Yaw rate and deceleration sensor
e. Combination meter assembly - this one has a low reading like 3.4
f. Center airbag sensor assembly - If the battery has been disconnected for a length of time, like overnight, am I safe to unplug this thing to test the wiring, etc. or should I leave it?​

Yeah I thought I was going to crawl under the truck and figure it all out this afternoon. Instead, I got vertigo trying to get my headlamp, shop light, and bi-focals to work in unison while on my back. Had to come inside and lay down for a bit to recover. Spouse said it can be reached by removing the tire, so might try that route later.

I feel like a nitwit because I was thinking that since the PCM/ECM was connected when spouse tried cranking, that maybe those codes came from that crank. Maybe that is why I initially disregarded it lol.

The immobilizer reset was done as part of the ECM install - I didn't realize that is what it was at the time, but the 2 pins were jumped, doors shut, ignition on, wait 30 minutes, etc. I couldn't ever figure out if it was successful though. Since this is done at the DLC port and there are potential canbus issues, does the canbus part need to be resolved before the immobilizer reset works?


Thanks so much for helping

 

I mean since we know the Meter is shorted and one of the terminating resistors is in the Meter checking resistance on the rest of the CAN isn't gona tell us much. Since you have a scope you could scope the CAN lines and see what is happening there but we likely need to get a working Meter installed to proceed.

I'm actually suprised it didn't have more codes than that but I guess the engine needs to be running for others to set.

The Immobilizer operates on dedicated com lines separate from the CAN lines so I wouldn't think it would be affected by the CAN Bus being offline but I suppose it's possible.
Really need to the CAN back online though so we can talk to the PCM with it installed in the truck.

 

zzzzOMG I have the coolest update, and not just because of the temperature drop!!! It usually takes me a few hours to compile the info with all the checked references and photos and I'm about halfway done.

Unfortunately, the washing machine - apparently jealous of all the attention being dedicated to the Tacoma - has decided to stop working. It's never a quick fix and although I personally am not opposed to rewearing things, the Beagles escaped earlier and made their way to the swamp at back of property (again), then snuck their way back into the house to roll around on the bed and furniture and few things still clean. As I sit here typing, I can smell swamp, so yeah, I'll be devoting all my profanity tonight to Maytag because I need to wash some stuff. It's always something.

I'll provide all the detailed nitty-gritty in the bigger Tacoma update, but since I can't contain my excitement on progress:

I think I found evidence of the elusive lightning strike, and as Sir DM93 master genius at TacomaWorld stated, the combo meter is likely toast (not that I ever questioned) I've been shopping replacements.​

After some serious CANBUS research, troubleshooting, and testing, I now see 'evidence' of the new ECM and even other modules in TechStream!! There's even more info when I use other applications/methods!! In TechStream, the ECM is only under the CANBUS Testing option (which used to error out itself), but I'm ecstatic because for once I wasn't met with "No ECM Found/Can't Connect/No Communication/Go To Hell", etc. Dig the photos OMG it's progress I'm going to wear out the exclamation mark key on my keyboard!!!
​

I'll be back with more!!

 

I’m back and for the record the washing machine is ahead, but only temporarily until the part arrives tomorrow. I’d much rather focus on the truck anyways.

Picking up where we left off, I tested the canbus with the combo meter disconnected, but still no connection to ECM in TechStream. I managed to get over my fear of the airbag module and tried the canbus with it disconnected (left the battery disconnected overnight first). Still no love from the ECM, but there was a notable difference this time that I should have got a pic of dammit. I've been using a breakout box with all this testing so I can see if there is actual canbus activity. With the combo meter unplugged, the BoB was like "OMG I'M ALIVE!!!" all lit up and flashing and bright with every color instead of the usual "WHAT DO YOU WANT WOMAN LET ME GO BACK TO SLEEP” with a few dim flickers. It was exciting for a few minutes, until the communication with the ECU failed. Again.

<Cue that sound on The Price is Right when someone loses>


I brought the combo meter inside for a bench test/read. The meter lit up with BoB barely reacting, like how it did in the truck. From memory, I recall the 4wd-related lights on the 3rd gauge were NOT lit, but the ABS and Brake still were. No MIL, but that makes sense. The tire light was also present along with the airbag light in the first gauge. It would also appear that I'm low on gas here in my office. There's a tasteless joke in that somewhere. Anyways, I decided to see what was going on inside this combo meter and pulled it apart.

Houston - we may have found our problem.



I believe we have hints of some kind of surge, I think. The white back cover of the combo meter coincidentally has a forked lightning pattern all over it. Seems I’ve come across something like this before that wasn’t electrical related, but I’m drawing a blank. I’ll go with surge evidence for now. Either that, or aliens.





For a closer look, I dusted off my cheap, foreign-made microscope and subsequently entered another dimension, without LSD. The somewhat normal looking combo meter board is now showing some "shocking" signs.

Board at a glance:




There’s some kind of residue funk all over the board that might be related to manufacturing, like something that coats the board and, refraining from another tasteless joke, is now old and crusty?




The 2 photos above represent most of the soldered points on the board.


I’m disappointed that my photos of C10 apparently have been zapped, but they were like what is seen with C9, which I do have the photos of:







At least 4 of the pins on C9 look discolored in a shade I'll call lightly toasted.




If I’ve done this right, and we ignore the fact that one of the 2 images in my pin location image is upside down and missing reference to Pin 19, it looks like:

C9-4 – Ground
C9-19 - Vehicle speed signal (4POUT)
C9-23 - Tire pressure signal
C9-26 - RSCA OFF indicator light

I have no idea of the correlation between the pins and the truck symptoms. It wasn’t what I was expecting, and it may be nothing at all, so I’m going to just continue.

This got me to thinking about the original ECM, which happens to still be on my desk. I had pulled it apart once before back in my n0ob days (ha) but didn't see anything that stood out. Since I feel I have graduated to at least amateur DIY automotive tinker-er, I decided to try it again.

I think we're going to need a bigger budget.



Maybe. It was the only movie line I could think of to reference. It hasn't been too bad so far, but my worst-case scenario mentality visualizes having to replace anything with a wire connected to it.

There is some cool-ass putty adhesive on the ECM that I absolutely must have when I find out what it is. Once I calmed down over the new-to-me substance, I noticed that putty had a small char-type mark on it which led to a closer inspection revealing the - pun intended - smoking gun?




The board itself seemed fine at first – nothing glaring. The lighting in the pic gives the appearance of discoloration in some areas. The top pink arrow is where the barely visible damage is.





Break out the cheap foreign-made microscope and we have something that could pass as a prop from the movie “Predator”. I believe this would qualify as damage, and I feel better knowing there is a cause for the truck troubles that doesn't involve a conspiracy theory.




This next one – where the bottom pink arrow points - baffles me.



I go to remove the 3 screws to get a better view of the pins, and…




Is this screw for real and if so, what is its purpose? I couldn’t find much searching Denso ECMs or any of the part numbers that wasn’t focused on the other side of the board, so I’m stumped.

This is already a long-ass post, so I'll provide the ECM and canbus progress separately. Please let me know if anything I've assumed in this post is inaccurate so I can correct.

Thanks again TacomaWorld!

 

Sow, this is a very interesting post.
I spoke with Dm93 about it last night.
I need to go back read the whole post.

But I give you credit, not many people would ever go this far into solving this issue.
If anything, you and a few of us following this post will learn a lot.

Thanks for sharing.

Let me read over the whole post and see if I can come up with some ideas.

 

I think the stuff your seeing on the board of the cluster is probably just leftover flux, can't really see anything wrong there otherwise.

The PCM is definitely toast though, clearly arced on that chip.

The screw with the solder in it is pretty normal to see on PCBs, I think it's there for several reasons:
To secure the screw and keep it from backing out.
To ensure good electrical contact between the screw and the board.
To prevent tampering.

Like I stated before you probably won't be able to reliably talk to anything on the CAN bus with the absence of the 120 ohm resistor in the cluster due to CAN bus "ringing".

Now if you had a 120 ohm resistor to put across C9 Pin 7 (Blue/Yellow) and Pin 8 (White/Blue) in place of the cluster the network should function normally providing nothing else is taking it down.

 

This was on the combo meter that wasn't functioning properly, and when removed from canbus the multimeter would read about 120 instead of that odd 3.4 or whatever. So although no real obvious damage on it, it still needs to be replaced, correct? I see a few on eBay around $100-$130 and will order today if the case.

I have one. It came with the breakout box. CAN 120 ohm resistor and a bunch of jumper wires. This is a new level of moron I've reached, because it's been part of my tinkering at my bench setup in my office. Never...not once..did I ever think about using it on the damn truck omg. This changes everything. Screw cleaning out the washing machine. I'm heading out to the workshop and can't get there fast enough.

Also, thank you for the detailed info on the weird screw on the ECM

 

I suspect the CAN lines may internally be shorted to another pin thus unplugging it allows them to read normally.

Also note the mileage is stored in the cluster and you need one from a 2012-15 truck with the same engine & transmission.

 

That's a coating to protect solder runs and connections from corrosion. Completely normal.

 

OK I'm out here with the resistor. I tested it to make sure it was good and it seems like it is. To make sure i'm doing this right:

1.) Resistor will go on C9 pins (pinholes) 7 and 8.

2.) Is it ok to put them in the actual front pinhole or should I rig something for the back pin side? The resistor wires are flimsy and will probably fight that route, hence the potential need to get creative.

3.) Does C10 stay plugged in or do I disconnect it?