Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Hot or cold, I pass a 1/2 quart of clean oil to chase out most of the remaining old oil and any leftover grit near the drain hole/base of the pan. It’s a forgotten practice from the old days. You will actually see the oil going from dark to clear as it drains. If it’s still dark, pass the other 1/2 quart.

 

I personally run the engine until it hits that first mark on the temp gauge. Changing it warm/hot is just how I was taught and what I have always done. I was just saying that it probably doesn't make a measurable difference if changed at a comfortable ambient temp (not like current below-zero temps) and you are diluting what minimal oil is left with fresh oil.

Where exactly do these contaminants hide when the oil is cold? At what temp do these contaminants sneak out of the oil and hide in the internal nooks and crannies of the motor? It just doesn't make sense that anything significant would be left behind.

I've done the fresh oil chaser on accident. Once.

 

I think you missed my point.
My point was, I still have faith in people.
And $13 is cheap (for me anyways)



I hope you never need medical treatment. With your way of thinking, you'll be in trouble.
Good luck caring for yourself. God forbid you live long enough that you ever see the day where simple task will require help.
Be sure to tell those people to "fuck off' too."


Seriously man. The whole point was about still having a little faith in people.
I'm well capable of changing my own oil. I just choose not to. Not for $13.
I can let you do it for $13? I would trust you. And I'm serious too.
I don't judge everyone off other peoples mistakes.

 

I do that on my mowers. I drains out much faster that way.
Warm oil flows better.

 

I did as well……..flushed the pan with four quarts before I realized

 

That’s wonderful.
Personally, I like to do oil changes myself. I like to check the condition of driveline, look for leaks, road damage. I’ve been a mechanic my entire adult life…….its in my blood. It’s just not in my nature to pay someone to do something I can do.

with that being said……I know when to ask for help and pass a job along to a shop or another mechanic.

 

I'm kind of the opposite.
The more it cost me in "Labor" the more likely I am to do it myself.
Axle seals, Wheel bearings, Brakes, Differential bushing. I did all that myself.

I've done my share of clutches, Transmissions, Engine Swaps.....
But $13 labor for an oil change.... No. I'll let someone else do it for that
And that price does not include a multi-point inspection. I do that myself.
I'm not going to have them loose more money on me. Because I decline all their recommendations every time.

 

Oil change at my local shop (which is outstanding) is well north of $100. $70/hr labor at .5 h (both air dam and skid plates come off) plus oil cost and recycling fee. So, I prefer to do it myself and turn the money saved into the best oil I can get into my vehicle. That said, I trust those guys to do it right 100% and as I get older (and lazier) I will likely just provide my preferred oil and filter to them.

 

I'll weigh in: Go to Wally World to buy the oil. Go home. Shut it down. Change into oil-change clothes and old jacket if it's chilly. Drive the truck up the ramps and shut it down. Remove key. E-Brake applied, chock both rear wheels. Dig out the creeper, tools, drop light and catch pan, oil and OEM Toyota filter. Couple of shop rags and disposable gloves. Roll under and start the job. The above ritual takes about 20 minutes and cools it down enough for me. Drain old oil, replace plug, add new oil, change filter. Check work. Done. I never vary the order of the steps. It's the way I was taught by my Dad.. Never forgot to add oil or replace the filter. Long time ago now.

Closest I've ever come to a disaster was forgetting to replace the (missing) copper drain plug gasket on one of my Volvos. (The nice new shiny copper gasket under the 1" (!!) drain plug stands right out at you when it's there -AND- also when you forget to put it back. I caught it.)

I also leave the truck key in the garage on the bench. Gives me time to think about the job I just did and to go down the list in my head.

 

OP's engine is "broke" and TW is arguing about how to do a proper oil change.
That's why I love this site, the important stuff doesn't matter.

Forgive us OP. Please do continue to update us.
I'm more interested in the outcome of your situation, than debating oil changes.

 

Wow that's some nasty scoring . I'm no pro mechanic but I bet that oil jet that is supposed to be spraying on the underside of that piston is completely clogged with sludge. Probably wasn't doing anything.

 

The dealers are just following corporate code. 10:K oil changes to me are rolling the dice . I know people will want to shoot me for saying that with blackstone and such. It’s planned obsolescence in my opinion. The company doesn’t care because the engine will make it past 100 k miles and then at that point they are off the hook completely. Let’s not make this an oil state LOL . OP I think maybe try and find a used motor or get a new short block is your best bet

 

I don't wrench too much, and I damn sure don't change my own oil...

G/L, OP...

 

Okay, here's the filter, it looks old enough to vote.




Here's the sludge depth.



I have no idea how old that filter is, or really any way to tell.

Also, the o-ring seems old and hard, not sure if/when it every got changed.

 

This thread definitely confirms I will continue doing my own oil changes as much as I don’t enjoy them.

 

a dealer is doing the "sit in the truck and we'll change the oil"? thats not something toyota really encourages LOL

they may have been changing it. but if you were doing 10k OCI and they were using dirt cheap dino oil instead of full synthetic 0w-20 (which alot of places do to con people out of money..) then this will happen

that being said, the last time i saw sludge that bad inside a modern toyota it had almost 300k miles and had been doing 20k oci for the past 100k of its life (the owner quit caring)

 

I'd like to believe my situation is an anomaly, otherwise oil change places wouldn't stay in business.

I doubt 1 in a few hundred would go to the lengths to pull apart a motor to see.

I think if a bore was possible I might just rebuild the thing so I knew what I had, I'm trying to call the local machine shops and see if anyone would do it, just in case I can't round up a donor motor.

 

Bore is not possible, but does not hurt to ask

 

I wonder if someone has sleeves for these blocks, in case you want to run larger pistons? Then again, they'd also have to sell oversize pistons and figure out how to "re-sleeve" them, and maybe there's just not enough material to do it between cylinders.

Anyone out there got a donor block? Still waiting to hear back on an couple donor engines.

 

There are definitely not your 1960s Detroit motors.
Pros: They last a lot longer
Cons: Not as easy to work on (in any way)