1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

So this picture is of the relay itself so keep that in mind when looking at which pins to bypass on the harness.

 

Should I be jumping STA & E1 or +B & FC?

 

Ya I'm not getting a pump prime when I jump either of those. Both with key off and key on. @Speedytech7

 

Sorry was outside helping load a truck. First verify, testlight or multimeter, from B+ you're getting power. STA is the starter signal, that's not the one you need for keeping the pump on. B+ to FP should engage the pump if B+ has power. FC is the one the haltech energizes to keep the pump on after cranking and for priming. Probably not great to backfeed current into that. I don't think B+ has power when the ignition is off btw.

 

I do have power on B+ with ign on. But I don't hear prime when I jump FP to B+.
I was hoping I didn't have to pull the fuel pump
The things just over a year old which is surprising.

 

Sorry, yeah it sure ain't fun. What pump do you have?

 

Same one @Digiratus has iirc. Automotive

$142 Aeromotive 11542 340 Series Stealth Intank Fuel Pump, High Horsepower, 12V Electric, EFI and Carbureted Engines, Gas or E85 Fuel Type, Inline Inlet

11542

 

Damn, same I've got as well, might see about their warranty. First failure I've heard of on one of theirs.

 

Ya I'll bench test it once I have it out and contact them, but I need to get my hands on a replacement pump asap since I'm supposed to leave for KOH end of next week.
Any suggestions? I'd order one online but good ole' California doesn't let you do that.

 

You can ship it here and I'll forward it on if that helps, I wasn't aware you can't get a pump sent to CA, it's not emissions equip. I usually get em on Summit Racing since everything usually comes from Sparks, NV it'll get here in a day. The 11542 I know fits well, I believe some of the guys on here run the AEM 340 pump too.

 

Ah looks like it's just Amazon. I can get one from Summit.
I think I'll go the AEM route since I didn't have great luck with that Aeromotive one.
I wonder if it shorted out or something weird. I've seen talk on FB groups about the 340 pumps overloading the fueling circuit and overworking the FPR.

 

Yeah, this is a bit troubling.

 

I'm not concerned.

 

@betterbuckleup
I had a similar issue. Checked all the above mentioned and was good. Then I disconnected the connector below the driver seat that is the pass thru for the tail harness/fuel pump. One of the pins got hot and melted out of place. Great. Fixed reworked that and truck runs fine. I actually need to address this more but have been too busy with other things. Anyway give it a look or test the wiring to the pump.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that. I'd rather it be that than have to pull the bed and swap the pump

 

If you do have to get into the tank, it's not too bad to lean the bed up on driver side. I had to do this on my wife's truck. It is a short bed but should be very similar on long bed, unless you have party mods. Remove the mounting bolts on Driver side and generously loosen the Passenger side. Use a pry bar and blocks of wood to lift the bed. Use two stacks, one to hold the weight, the other to lift/pry. Keep adding until you gain access. Watch for wires. Good luck.

 

Unfortunately I have to pull it completely off because my rear bumper has side bars that would contact the bed when tilting it like that. But a buddy of mine said it's not too bad dropping the tank from the bottom so I might give that a shot if I do have to get into it.

 

Yeah I've done both ways now and dropping this tank isn't hard if it is empty or if you have a trans jack

 

Drain it first!

 

Lol definitely. I learned that the hard way in high school haha