TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Cool,
I already have that specific compression tester from when I checked 1-2 years ago.

The deepest I have gone is the cam hear swap on this engine.
I assume the cams need to be pulled for this operation? I have a lot of research to do...

 

For the valve guide seal, yes the cams need to come out. The tool will bolt down where the caps for the cams bolt. I used low torque, just enough to snug the tool.

 

Make sure and get the ibuprofen out and work out those hand muscles as you get ready for this job. My hands hurt just thinking about it. The biggest pain is the installing the valve springs, although if I recall @Athlaos rigged up a tool for a Nissan Z to do his 1GR valves. I could be wrong.

 

I have done other cars, with heads on, I actually just welded a pipe coupler to a hollowed out spark-plug, to adapt air hose to the cyl and keep the valves in place. Caution that the crank will rotate as you press each piston to the bottom, and also, as I recall, some keepers can be snug and pressing with the spring tool will open the valve even under pressure; just hold pressure on the tool, and tap the spring retainer a bit, it will free the keepers instead.

Also note, that one engine I did, smoked like crazy when finished, such that I thought I forgot to install a seal or something. Sweat not necessary; it just took longer than expected to burn off the assembly oil, but after a bit, it proved to be just what the car needed. I since learned that a tiny bit of oil makes ALOT of smoke.

I didn't see it mentioned, but the classic, and pretty definitive symptom of bad valve seals, is to downshift on a long downhill grade, without foot on the gas (high manifold vacuum), such that the hill is revving the motor, and it will generate a serious smoke trail if a seal is bad.

Since you never did this before:
- stuff rags around all the valve springs, to block off all passages, so when you drop a keeper or a nut, it cannot go into the engine.
- Magnet is handy for pulling the keepers
- the grooves in the valve stems can be sharp enough to ruin the new seal; some seal kits come with a plastic condom, to protect the seal installation. If condom not available, use a small piece of plastic, big enough to cover end of stem down past grooves. Use plastic like from a zip lock, rugged enough not to tear and leave a shred of plastic in the new seal.
- is suggested to not mash the springs down totally coil-bound, can damage the springs, just enough to get keepers in and out.


Best of luck to you!

 

I did rig one up. I rented it out to someone recently actually. So let me know if you’re interested in that @findingthingsout

 

This may be of use.
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-toyotool-valve-spring-tool-2zz-1zz-2gr/

Appreciate every ones response. This is new territory for me. Gonna do some more research and decide on the next steps.

 

I bought one of those, little pricy but it removed the keepers easily and has a magnet on the end so they didn't go flying.

It requires hand pressure on the valve springs so I'm thinking it will probably be a battle on the install phase with upgraded cam springs.

The removal end can separate and flip around for the install end but I haven't attempted install yet.

Definitely recommended for removal at least.

 

When applying air pressure to the cylinder make sure the piston is at top dead center. That way the valve will not drop into the cylinder. If you use a long screwdriver or a metal coat hanger straightened out. just watch till it stops moving and slow add air. and to help mark your tool (no pun intended) at top dead center then the next cylinder will be that much easier to find TDC.

 

Mr Toyota recommends chopsticks lol.

Air pressure will actually send the piston down, but also keep the valves in place.

 

Not when the cylinder is at top dead center or bottom dead center. The rod and crank are all in line and the force applied by air pressure will not turn the crank at either of these two positions. But if your off by a couple of degrees it will spin the crank, That is why I stated to apply air pressure slowly so one can watch and make sure the crank does not spin on you. When doing a leak down test the cylinder has to be at top dead center, or you will get inaccurate readings do to the valves being open.

 

Yeah, good point but they’re not gonna be open with the cams out

 

In this instance true. I would rather spend 10 extra seconds finding TDC for each cylinder and have peace of mind knowing a valve will not fall into the cylinder during repair. When I did my cams, i was installing the new springs and pushed a valve open. Not far and it had a good mount of tensione from the guide and the seal. I would suck to remove head for a possible mistake over being a little lazy at the start.

 

There’s also the shoe string method, but definitely a bit more of a pita

 

I have to somewhat disagree, though I have not tried this so is possible to be less time consuming and more stable than I think.

The valve will not drop into a pressurized cyl unless either you loose all pressure or you shove the valve open enough to majorly loose the pressure. The only time that the valve gets shoved open, is when you first try to release the keeper wedges; but until the wedges are free the valve cannot drop, and once the wedges are free, the valve is no longer shoved open. So not sure that it is worth changing methods.

On the other hand, a sudden turn of the crank from TDC being not perfectly at center, will generate a sudden pressure drop, While the mechanic is distracted by the hazard of a rotating engine, bang his head under the hood and drops the keepers. Nothing is ever free.

Having done this with the piston at the bottom, and knowing how well it works, there is no reason to be concerned; I think I will continue to work with the piston nice and stable, at the bottom. When you try this, you quickly get a sense of how hard you can force things, without getting into trouble; dropping a valve does not happen easily.

 

Has anyone experienced a dead spot in there power curve at around 2700 - 3000 RPM? I’m loosing a little bit of power in that range. Doesn’t completely cut out but is noticeable compared below and above that range.

I assumed it was tuning on the provided TRD tune but now I’m not so sure.

I have no other noticeable engine problems.

 

Check your air filter, fuel filter, and fuel psi. Any evidence of belt slip?

 

Do you have a way to log? The best would be HP Tuners connected through the dongle on the ODB II port and record the acceleration. Then all of the variables can be inspected - air, fuel, spark - and help isolate if it is something “external” like belt slip.

 

Do you have a way to monitor AFR like with an aftermarket gauge?

 

There is more than one way to do most jobs. Everyone will find what works best for them. And that is what is important

 

Anyone looking to do a manual swap?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-flywheel-tilton-hrb-ra60f-trans.822439/#post-29495479