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Which clutch is best?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Dewaterb, Jan 16, 2024.

  1. Jan 16, 2024 at 12:12 PM
    #1
    Dewaterb

    Dewaterb [OP] New Member

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    Hello all I'm new to the form so I'm still trying to figure out how to search for topics if this has already been debated sorry, I have a 2014 Tacoma 4x4, the clutch was replaced at 98,000 miles, it was original, I took the stock clutch out and put a urd stage 2 clutch in, 42,000 miles later now the clutch is toast and I need to replace it again, I was reading some of the forms that I could find and people were saying put a Marlin crawler kit in it but I could not find my vehicle on their website so I'm looking just to buy a kit I've been trying to compare the differences between the clutch kits and I was wondering what experience people have and what they're currently using I was planning on replacing the flywheel also, originally I was going to go with a Luke flywheel but I have read mixed reviews on it so I'm going with an aftermarket chromoly unless you have a better option, I'm currently thinking of going with the Aisin clutch has it is a little cheaper and it looks identical to the luk I'm assuming it is a luk just in an Aisin box, any tips or ideas would be helpful thank you, also I know it depends greatly on how you plan on using the truck, I do do some light off-roading and do tow a boat to the lake occasionally, I don't drive crazy but I do like to get to my destination in a timely manner,
    Also I know the throwout bearings tend to chirp on this truck I originally replaced it with an oem one is there any better options as the new one was squeaking also.
     
    TXpro4X4 likes this.
  2. Jan 16, 2024 at 12:19 PM
    #2
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Stock

    But lots of opinions here

    Just go with a good know shop that can back there work up if something happens

    Stock lasted you 100k and idk detail but was replaced not needing replacment?
    Welcome to T world.

    If you go up in the upper right hand corner there is a little magnifying glass in the light blue bar you click on that and look up second gen throw out bearing issues that's a good place to start lots of good detailed information in those threads about throw out bearings and clutches and whatnot
     
    SH10151 likes this.
  3. Jan 16, 2024 at 12:38 PM
    #3
    Dewaterb

    Dewaterb [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the help yes the clutch went out at 98,000 it was original and it was a Luk, I then replaced it with a urd racing stage 2 clutch because it was supposed to be more heavy duty turns out it only lasted half the time it's now 42,000 miles later and the clutch is completely toast, any suggestions on the flywheel the stock one is $750 and I'd rather not pay that if I don't have to
     
  4. Jan 16, 2024 at 1:18 PM
    #4
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    I wonder why it’s toast that early and how you know
    if you’ve actually inspected it
    My previous clutch was acting weird but upon pulling it out it still had friction material.

    I wonder if more friction clutch potentially means faster wear.
    They say with proper driving a clutch should last over 100k. I really hope mine does. 40k doesn’t seem long for a clutch.

    i liked the price of my Exedy clutch kit and they have a good reputation. But it started acting up. I may have been too hard on it towing. It was fine before that. They sent a replacement without really asking, which I respect a lot.

    The stock clutch may be small. On any vehicle putting a better one is common.

    I think if stock was fantastic then you wouldn’t have upgraded exist. But they do. Or did, at least.

    for example, URD coming out with a stronger PP, better clutch, heavier off road flywheel that people like including myself. Stronger, and more mass to keep that momentum making traffic easier. Not sure if I’ve used mine off road yet.

    but there is no replacement for 4:1 tcase, tacobox, and regear.

    however, I don’t see those parts on URD site anymore. And they were hard to get to begin with.


    Also, consider this issue other cars don’t have. The stock TOB is shit. So people put a hydroTOB. Guess what that does?
    It makes the pedal more effortless by being entirely hydraulic.
    So if you want even a normal feeling clutch, that it can handle, now you’re looking at a stronger pressure plate with more clamping force just for the pedal to feel normal. Which, is not stock…
     
    TXpro4X4[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jan 16, 2024 at 2:35 PM
    #5
    Dewaterb

    Dewaterb [OP] New Member

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    So my fault for not adding more detail I know the clutch is bad because it's slipping hard it struggles to go up any Hills and I can smell it burning originally I thought it was the throwout bearing not releasing all the way but I physically crawled under the truck and took the shield off and inspected it it appears to be replacing fully, I also read a form that said I might need to adjust the free play at the pedal but that was perfect upon inspection also, I also bought the truck used which I forgot to mention so I don't know how it was driven for the first 98,000 miles I just know shortly after that it started slipping and I figured with the mileage that it would probably be about time anyways, I was thinking of the same clutch that you indicated you use just because it is slightly cheaper, but if you're having issues then I'd rather pay a little more and get something slightly better, did you happen to replace the flywheel or just have it turned if so what brand did you use I am thinking of just replacing it because at the previous clutch replacement I had it turned and I think it will be below minimum spec now either way I'd like to just put a new one on, if you were to replace the clutch in your truck again assuming you had to pay for it and not get a warranty replacement would you choose the same brand or go with a different if so which one
     
  6. Jan 16, 2024 at 4:33 PM
    #6
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    I'd get punctuation
     
  7. Jan 16, 2024 at 4:53 PM
    #7
    Dewaterb

    Dewaterb [OP] New Member

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    Agreed, but I'm texting back through my watch as I'm driving home and it doesn't add any of that
     
  8. Jan 16, 2024 at 4:58 PM
    #8
    ace_10

    ace_10 Well-Known Member

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  9. Jan 16, 2024 at 5:26 PM
    #9
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    You can say the punctuation and it will do it for ya
     
  10. Jan 16, 2024 at 5:28 PM
    #10
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Toy Stuff..... Faktor Amber lights on in the grill. Under front bumper led rock lighting. Center counsel c.b mod with under the hood p.a. Anytime foglight mod. R.G.B tape light for inside toekick lighting. Front and back. Front weathertech floor mats. De-Baged except TOY on tailgate. FJ style 6 speed shifter knob. Rubber tacoma bed mat. Trd exhaust. Trd 16in beadlocker style wheels. Electrical a/c 115volt plug/usb mod next to passenger knee. Fox 2.5 coilovers. Icon 2.0's in the rear. Rear locker any-time mod. Abs kill switch mod. All Pro ISF front skid Pelfrey built front differential skid Baja design pro pods Rigid pods CBI pods brackets Mobtown tailgate guard RIP Mobtown Caliraised rear amber pod lights CJ Jumper- map, running, amber fog, reverse, and license plate led bulbs Pedal Commander
    They upgraded the old bearing but as for the old second gen bearings I agree they were totally shit even though mine lasted 75,000 miles without a noise
    The only reason I replaced my clutch at 100,000 miles was because of that damn throw out bearing I couldn't tolerate it anymore otherwise it has still plenty of wear on it Towing trailers boats dirt bikes you name it
     
  11. Jan 16, 2024 at 5:30 PM
    #11
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    I've got 75,000 miles on this new clutch bearing and no noise yet although I am very pessimistic we'll see what happens in the next 25,000 miles but I think this time instead of playing the money because I don't have those type of tools or a shop or lifts I'm just going to let it squeak till I really really can't tolerate it anymore
     
  12. Jan 16, 2024 at 5:48 PM
    #12
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    It's a Toyota not a German car, uses basic hand tools not NASA special tools, and can be wrenched on a floor

    either way

    one upgrade seems to be Tilton HydroTOB
    and another option, 3rd gen trans with what looks like replaceable sleeve (as they should be) with or without anything else done to it
     
    TXpro4X4[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jan 16, 2024 at 6:25 PM
    #13
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Toy Stuff..... Faktor Amber lights on in the grill. Under front bumper led rock lighting. Center counsel c.b mod with under the hood p.a. Anytime foglight mod. R.G.B tape light for inside toekick lighting. Front and back. Front weathertech floor mats. De-Baged except TOY on tailgate. FJ style 6 speed shifter knob. Rubber tacoma bed mat. Trd exhaust. Trd 16in beadlocker style wheels. Electrical a/c 115volt plug/usb mod next to passenger knee. Fox 2.5 coilovers. Icon 2.0's in the rear. Rear locker any-time mod. Abs kill switch mod. All Pro ISF front skid Pelfrey built front differential skid Baja design pro pods Rigid pods CBI pods brackets Mobtown tailgate guard RIP Mobtown Caliraised rear amber pod lights CJ Jumper- map, running, amber fog, reverse, and license plate led bulbs Pedal Commander
    Hmm
    Guess I could use a floor jack

    Yhea idk what I'll do down the road
    Another 1400 and call it good for another 7-10 yrs to hopefully be used by the kids

    I want one them flying cars:fingerscrossed: lol
     
  14. Jan 17, 2024 at 9:22 AM
    #14
    dtaco10

    dtaco10 Well-Known Member

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    Just saying.
    I purchased an '87 Ranger, V6, 5sp manual brand new and drove it to the junkyard 17 years later with over 196,000 miles on it and never replaced the clutch. The frame was pretty well rusted.
     
    TXpro4X4 likes this.

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