PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Really I'm more curious to see what they charged you for?
That would give me (us) an idea of what the dealership "thinks" was wrong with it.

 

Sorry to hear that buddy, really hoping it doesn't spiral into more expensive repairs.

 

I don't have the invoice handy right now. Even though my truck had just shy of 189K miles when the work was performed, the service manager approved the 20% off "200K discount". Just for grins, I fired up the truck and found the aforementioned warning lights to still be on; I stomped on the brake pedal a few times and got both lights to go out. Now, the truck is behaving normally; @Speedytech7, this seems to be 100% a brake issue and nothing to do with the drivetrain...?

I say again that the CEL is not on, and has not come at all during this fiasco. The engine burns oil at a rate of roughly 1 quart roughly every 4,000 miles, but runs like a top. The transmission just had the fluid flushed and changed, and shows no signs of wear, aside from the fact that brake shift interlock no longer works, and the truck can be shifted out of PARK even without the keys in the ignition. Other than that the truck is fine, and if it weren't for this goddamn brake issue, I would not hesitate to drive it across the country!

 

I have some idea on how I'd go about diagnosing it.
But no need to go into that. That shift lock issue has me questioning a few things.
Be sure to tell them about that when they take the truck.
The brake (switch) and ignition both play a part in the shift lock function.

 

Since they gave me the 200K-mile discount, I might just eat the $700 or whatever for replacing the shift interlock mechanism. That will still put me below what I originally expected to spend; I just need to get one more year out of this truck! It's getting new front brake pads at 190K miles, and new tires at 195K. I also plan on replacing the carpet and getting a new seat cover. If I decide to daily it well into 2025, then I will consider getting a ring job to address the oil burning; I have a distinct feeling that my truck is about to skyrocket in value and I will be able to get top dollar. If it goes down in value and @Stitchgirl90 doesn't have a car by the time I'm ready to buy something new, I will add her to my insurance and let her drive my current truck on the condition that she pay her part of the insurance. I really DO NOT want to get rid of my truck.

 

I wouldn't throw parts at it.
The shift lock is a solenoid, it has to have power to make it unlock.
And the ABS is "powered" too.

I'd be disconnection the battery just to see if the Shift Lock solenoid is staying energized, or just "stuck".
Or unplug the shift lock, but it's "harder" to get to.

Again, not your problem. But don't be afraid to ask us our opinion before you spend more money.
something is "wrong" here.

 

The shift lock solenoid was diagnosed months ago; I'm not bothering to replace it right now because the part is so damn expensive and this part does not need to be functioning for the truck to pass annual safety inspection.

 

I talked to my friend Dave, who used to be a mechanic (he got sick of that, got his CDL, and now drives a semi), and he had an interesting theory based on his knowledge of and experience with modern ABS/traction control systems; he believes that the new ABS module may not have been programmed properly and it's malfunctioning as a result...?

Honestly, this has all the indicators of a rush job done by a tech who wanted to clock out and get to happy hour, rather than something seriously wrong with my truck!

 

Well, I can’t say that I agree.
You say the truck had the exact same problem as it did a week ago.
If ABS wasn’t programmed correctly, than that would mean the original wouldn’t have been either.
I think there was possibly a misdiagnosis. And if so, the real question is, will we ever know?

Or maybe something simple was left out or over looked.
But the “same problem” kind of goes against that theory.

 

My mechanic's OBD scanner showed fault with the ABS if I am remembering correctly, but my mechanic doesn't have the specific software to isolate the exact issue and recommended that I take it to the dealer. The dealer charged basically the same amount my mechanic would have to fix it, and gave me a loaner vehicle, so I had it done at the dealer. Last year, the ABS and traction control lights came on, but the truck was not totally immobilized; the problem ended up being a wheel speed sensor that was likely damaged by road debris, and I actually posted pictures of this. I have had two wheel speed sensors, on two different wheels, replaced in the last two years. Also, did I mention that @Stitchgirl90 noticed "a burning smell like I forgot to release the parking brake" about the time the warning lights came on? The parking brake was not engaged, nor was the indicator light for the parking brake illuminated, so that leads me to believe that the rear brakes were tightened up too much.

 

They typically get “looser” after driving in my experience.
Maybe the shoes are hanging up in the drum?
But you said the light was on when you picked the truck up. So who knows?

 

No...

The light was not on when I picked it up; I would have gone right back inside and told them to fix it right. The truck started acting wonky roughly a mile from my house and Amanda noticed the burning smell about the time the lights came on.

 

Oh, Ok.
So the light came on a mile from your house?
Still, Tight rear brakes from a bad adjustment wouldn't cause that.
The only procedure for replacing the ABS Module is to do a Zero Point Calibration.
Did you ever have this done when you lifted the truck?

That said, the VSC is what commands the brakes on that case.
But I never hear anyone say it "locked" them on for an extended period of time.
Typically it jams them on in a curve, and the truck pulls you into oncoming traffic or off the road.
And then deactivates once you slow down and start going straight again.

I'll be interested to see what the dealer says.
Maybe it just needs a Zero Point Calibration done?
I hope so, (and not) in your case.

 

Yep the new brake shoes probably are a little tight or have a high spot, definitely will loosen up after 100 miles or so and using Reverse a few times.

 

I adjust mine "tight".
Just enough to hear them drag ever so slightly.
Slap the wheel on and roll with it. It wont drag long and the E-Brake will be "good".

 

When I was a kid my Uncle used to spin the tire and watch the valve stem for 1 complete rotation and would adjust accordingly, all these years later I still follow that.

 

That's pretty much how my dad taught me.

He was a tech at a service center a long time. (In the 80's)
He does the same thing, spins and watches.

I go by feel and sound. Mostly because all wheels/tires aren't the same, and its hard (for me) to spin 33"-36" tire hard enough to get a "good idea".
So I go by feel and sound.

 

Its funny you mentioned spinning large tires, was trying to teach Shawn one day and he kept asking how hard to spin, but its basically by feel.

 

He asked a good question.
And that's a hard question to answer, easy to go by feel. (or at least for me)

Me and Shawn are on the same page there.
I never knew how hard to spin them either.

 

I have no idea, but the truck had lift kit for nearly three years before the ABS gave me issues; I'm assuming they calibrated the new one to compensate for the lift kit...