Simpler solution for disabling the DCM telematics - Silencing Antennas

That looks like it would be the correct non-Chinese non-ExelentProFun-brand cable, but with the real manufacturer + Digikey markup cost. I'd be curious what it looks like to remove that blue shroud off of the real Amphenol connector when you get to that step.

 

I mean, let's be real though - is it even a mod if it costs less than 3 figures?

 

If I understand you correctly, the GPS antenna goes multiple places, and with this mod we are just disconnecting the line coming from the GPS antenna going towards the Data Communication Module while the GPS antenna still remains connected to other things. If we could know correctly, we might be able to just put resistors+adapters on 2 of the 3 DCM things, but it's easiest and no drawback other than the cost of the resistor and adapter to just do all 3 since Toyota doesn't id them clearly.

 

@MattiasdelTaco
For those who have inquired about just disconnecting the SOS button from its connector in the overhead console, that brings up an alarm/code on the dash. I only know this because I was putting in a bunch of buttons up there and wanted to get rid of the SOS button to make room. Figured out that you can disassemble the button from the PCB (to get rid of the bulk) and tuck the PCB with the cable attached someplace. This also gets rid of the annoying SOS light above my head.

There was one inquiry about the FOB control; the FOB and the TPMS receiver is located above the headliner and should not be affected by this mod.

This is how things should have been done long ago, hat off to the OP. At one time I had my rear window out and to do that the whole back end of the cab had to be disassembled. Behind the right rear corner were additional inline antenna connections to the roof antenna package. I disconnected all the coax connectors and I still had all the radios function. I believe the disconnected antenna leads transmitted over the less than 1" ends of the cables to make acceptable reception. The distance was limited by the tape bundling the wires together. At that time I thought of doing this mod in an identical fashion.

One thing that would make this mod even better would be to source the actual connectors that plug into the DCM/Telematics module and solder in 50-ohm resistors eliminating the cables.

Note: 18 Nov 2024: this mod of putting terminating resistors on the Antenna outputs does not work, see the end of Post #12.

 

Re: eliminating cables, they already make off the shelf "interspecies" adapters like this

RedYutou FAKRA SMB Z Type Female to SMA Female Connector Adapter for GPS Navigation Coax Cables (2 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CHBKL39H/ or this

$20 Proxicast FAKRA Z to SMA Female Interseries Adapter - Waterblue Universal Compatibility for AM/FM, Satellite Radio, GPS, 4G/5G Cellular, Bluetooth and Other SMA Coax Cables (ANT-106-Z-SMA-2PK)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNSVQ4X1/

I already ordered some, but had second thoughts on if there is any reason to need a bit of cable before the resistor - can't think of any reason this would not be okay, but there could be something I haven't considered, maybe OP had a technical or physically getting it to fit reason for choosing the cables instead(?), though seems unlikely if I were betting, just chose first products found. Hopefully someone who knows more about the technical nuances of this stuff can clear this doubt up.


For the red phone button and lights hiding- What did you use and how did you source to fill in where the phone logo and lights used to be? I might just cover up with black gaffer tape, but a cleaner solution or blank that fits in would be better.

 

hey, my favorite mod is still a new shift knob from Twisted Shifterz

https://www.twistedshifterz.com/search?q=6RUL

 

Thanks for the links. When you receive the products could you try disassembling one of the Toyota connectors and inserting the disassembled Amazon procured connector within the Toyota plastic. This approach sounds like what I would like to try on my vehicle, labeling the colors on the Toyota antenna wires for future reversal of the mod.

Terminating the signal without a length of "leaky" cable would be best. All cable leaks the signal a bit, so doing the termination as close to the source is best for not having sporadic transmissions. Sporadic like my example of disconnecting the cables behind the right rear seat. The open antenna wires transmitted over open air to the other antenna wires to the antennas, or I was in an area of such good reception, just the ends of the wires were a good enough of an antenna to work. The DCM indicator never disappeared when I had the antenna wires disconnected.

OK, now on to the overhead console button installation:
I used the six-button panel in this link:
3rd Gen Tacoma Overhead switch panel – MESO CUSTOMS LLC
I generally don't like to recommend meso, I've had too many problems with them. Notice that the six-button panel has none of the side cutouts that allow any button to be inserted. Compare the pictures of all five of their inserts and only on the six-button panel are the cutouts missing. No button I tried, including the factory, fit without cutting off the side keys on the buttons; this button key cutting was easy to do. Just a miss-designed product. Some of the button panels require extensive cutting of the overhead panel and then glueing in the panel. Not only the faceplate needs cutting, but some of the unseen support structure too. I would say the cutting of the panel to fit the six-button panel was extensive and required lots of thought and a bit of messy epoxy. It is not a snap in application - I knew this going in and is not a problem, but one must know this before determining what will be appropriate for them and their capabilities.

Please let us know if the Toyota plastic can be used with the amazon supplied connectors.

 

Not quite, there are multiple GPS antennas and multiple modules that take GPS inputs. The GPS in to the DCM module, just feeds the telemetry/black-box functionality of the DCM. Your radio has a different Navigation Receiver module with it's own GPS input from a different wire.

The reason I went with the short cables instead of the rigid connectors is clearance. By the time you add a 50-ohm terminator you're sticking out about 1.5" to 2 which puts your bottom connector within bumping range of the wire bundle and is probably long enough to wiggle loose over time.

I don't know why Imgur keeps pulling my photo (it's the one with the broken link, again) but the Amazon connectors have a different pin body than the Toyota ones. Hopefully this upload here works. The top pin is the Amazon cable, the lower pin is with the blue connector removed from the Toyota harness.

 

The wiggling loose was why I conceived to use the OEM plastic retainers to hold them securely. I know nothing about the clearance problems yet.

Dang, I guess I'll go take a look at other vehicles and scavenge some Toyota Connectors and solder on my own 1% 50 ohm resistors and reuse the plastic retainers. If possible!

 

entirely off topic-- i understand the rear locker, and 2wd low range mod, but are you using a relay for the winch power, air power, and what are the last two for?

 

If it’s not too cold to take apart to get to the almond dcm connector, i’ll update sooner rather than later. Not sure when this will be yet

i don’t wanna have to take apart and put back together panels and parts twice, or leave opened up for days, so now i’m thinking perhaps i should have ordered cables, or should have the cables on hand just in case of clearance problems. Or maybe i can reuse existing cables after snipping…

to get to the points:
what’s the shortest length of cable that should solve the clearance issue?

*if this

is what the correct resistor should look like, hard to imagine the clearance issue being solved by the cable, but i don’t have the adapters yet to see how long it comes out to.

if you don’t want to reverse the mod, why not just chop off and reuse the oem toyota connectors by snipping the cables, then all that’s needed is the resistors and maybe a little soldering+insulation?

another idea i have is liquid electrical tape to lock/secure in place, so the resistor connection doesn’t shake loose, or maybe plastidip. Have not used either for anything yet, so don’t know whether this would work well.

Rambling, on getting ready to do this:
i almost ordered these https://www.ebay.com/itm/134599111831? in 2 inch or 6 inch instead of the “interspecies” connectors. And later though maybe i should just have gotten OP backpackingaltitudenerd’s kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/186244226072? to save time looking for the right parts, cause it’s not a whole lot of savings, when just buying/needing 3 sets.
But, now i already ordered 3 of the Amphenol Connex 132360 RF Terminator SMA 50 ohm caps, and it seems like most of the work is successfully opening up and putting back together to get to the 3 connector almond dcm module rather than assembling the resistor connectors. The airbag seems like the diciest part to handle.

 

No relays needed on the winch or air compressor power, switches are rated for 3 Amps. Each takes about an Amp.
The two other switches are to turn off/on the busser on the back of the Combination Meter or IP and the busser in the Engine Compartment.

 

The only thing I can comment upon is the liquid tape. I'm using it to keep some penetration secure and most importantly free of corrosion under the truck. By "penetration", I have a 4/0 marine grade cable strung from front to the rear on the vehicle. I am experimenting with this power distribution; a very sharp tinned brass needle is inserted into the 4/0 cable wherever I wish power. It is this connection that needs protection from the elements. So far, I have a refrigerator where the rear seat use to be and rewired the power to the 120V inverter. Both have their own fuse off the 4/0 cable. I used the liquid tape liberally for both sealing and securing - multiple applications seems to work best to let it dry.

 

what kind of winch only uses less than 3 amps?

 

This controller:

$113 WARN 98381 Service Kit - Winch Contactor

Amazon.com: WARN 98381 Service Kit - Winch Contactor : Automotive

 

I'm sorry, YES the above controller does use less than 3 Amps (~2 to be exact), but the switch is only the feed to a custom EOR (exclusive or gate) relay pack I make up with buttons on the dash for in and out. The switch in the console will never switch a live load. The EOR relays do that. Also have a remote that I can carry outside the vehicle. I can't remember the last time I used a Warn supplied wired remote. @soundman98

 

to you! This is the best and cleanest thing you can do. Wonder if same approach could work on other vehicles but that all depends on the physical antenna connections. Thanks for going through this, looks like a summertime mod for me.

 

It’s a good warm weather or warm garage project, particularly with all of the plastic dash clips.

 

I don't have a 3rd gen, don't have to worry about any of this. But I love such clean and simple mods! Well done OP!

 

Would this still be necessary to do if I have an aftermarket head unit? Or does this operate independently of the factory head unit?

Awesome write up, thanks for sharing