Branch Deflectors, anyone done em?

dang. Yeah my Sherpa rack doesn’t go that high lol

Snorkel currently has Syklone precleaner that hopefully continues staying put. Metal clamp is tight and added anti theft backup wires (metal cable) parts from a member here

was gonna say, welding tabs onto bull bar looks cleaner than tube clamp
but it appears above Camel truck took it a step further with holes drilled through it for eye bolts; seems like that could cause internal rust allowing moisture into the tube hoops

 

Im the owner of New Holland Overland and make the limb riser kits! If any of you have any questions please let me know

The kits are 100% bolt on (Just need a roof rack to make fit). If you need custom cable lengths I can do that too! My kits are all stainless steel, and I sell the parts individually (including the mounts) if you want to build something of your own to fit your specific setup

 

honestly I was just wondering if there’s any difference in terms of practical use application in having risers mount to your bracket, or a bumper

I think yours look better
and bumper mount would mean depending on a specific bumper that’s not permanent, as well as mounting position that is also not permanent

I guess theoretically if one desires it would be possible to get an extended version of your kit and hook it to some bumper clamps

both probably require temporary unclip to open hood
a couple inches higher position running wire to bumper tubes might not really matter

I’m curious when this is gonna come out…



I see the site says make sure to insulate the bracket to avoid paint rub. How is this done?
Ordering separate to install a flat piece of adhesive backed rubber (thin) in that area or something? (Not that I’m even worried about paint rub on an almost 20yo truck)

 

The flatbed tray and canopy parts are literally being cut and bent as we speak! Will be working through the prototype this December, pretty stoked to get the tray built

The reason I mount to the hood instead of a bumper is because your hood flexes "somewhat" evenly with your roof. Your bumper will flex a lot more compared to your hood (Basic body & frame stuff).

Because of the angles going to the roof racks its extremely hard to open the hood even with cables going to the bumper, or an extended bracket. I've done that setup on a few customer's vehicles and it almost always requires loosening and quickly removing the cables. I provide new quick-release pins that allow you to loosen and remove the cables within seconds so you can open your hood.

 

oh Camel Trophy trucks are so sexy!

 

Not to derail the thread, but Ive been looking into flatbeds a lot lately. Good to see someone closer to the East coast getting into the game! Hopefully you keep up with some progress & pics on here once the prototype is built

 

installed NHO kit

later on want to change it longer mounted to bumper hoops

anyone done or know the best way to create a bumper hoops mounting point?

Can think of 3 ways not not sure which is best
-clamps, or ARB CB clamp. Movable, but might be bulky and ugly
-weld on a mount; could compromise PC of the bumper and is permanent
-drill a hole and screw an eye bolt; also can compromise PC and be permanent

ARB CB mount could potentially look clean due to being the same black, and flush facing backwards level
Looks better than all those Amazon universal light mount brackets



These don’t look bad either
Guess I’ll pick one and see what happens.

ideally, the clamp would also be able to be installed on the curvy corner of the bumper hoops rather than only on a level part, to maximize outside protection and clear hood opening.
the ARB CB clamp might be able to do that while the others wouldn’t.







body to body shouldn’t have flex. But if I make it body to bumper there will likely be flex and I’ll have to figure out what expansion springs to put to allow for that.

hopefully the springs are not so weak that they result in slack and shaking of the wire.




would be cool if there’s a way to figure out not just spring dimensions but how much tension it should have.
Many online spring ads only list dimensions. Only seen one so far that showed tension (40lbs)

kind of like how hood, cargo box, etc struts all have a certain desired force spec that isn’t too much or too little

maybe it won’t hurt to overdo it on the spring tension as it may still allow for some give that a solid wire wouldn’t have with no spring.

Theres a bunch on Amazon. Maybe Home Depot. Even HFT.



Guy with the FJ cruiser used springs from Home Depot. Said he found long skinny springs too weak and picked short wide.

Then there’s “drawbar springs” that appear to have more secure ends, whatever the hell a drawbar spring is.
But drawbar could require modding or additional carabiners which would not be idea, overcomplicating the wires and making them look ugly like a jumbled Home Depot aisle on the truck



even more convenient, a spring would allow for quick disconnecting of the Limb Riser without having to mess with the adjustable tension shaft.

 

Id look at something simple like an exhaust clamp, u-bolt, etc. As long as you can find the right size, you can weld whatever you want to that. Paint it all black and clamp it anywhere on the bar. As long as theres no sharp edges and you don't go ham clamping it down you shouldn't break through the powder coat

 

that would probably be the best price...

couple bucks
might even be enough room on the backside to bolt in an eye bolt to avoid welding



these are another one but might look weird and be too weak

 

alright
So
Was at Home Depot looking what they had and it seems to be a good amount.

they’ve got U bolts for cheap that come with a flat piece

I need to figure out a clamp to bolt onto them, or make a longer flat bar and drill holes. So it sticks out on the backside to hook the cable to

any springs they had were either small or huge so idk if they will work.

I might try to make a longer mount at the roof rack too. So it bolts to both fairing holes. That way it’s higher up for better deflecting, and stronger mounting.

maybe generic SS flat bar, grinded to length and rounded for smooth shape so it doesn’t snag

they also sell pre punched bar, if the holes even line up

might get longer 3/16 sheathed cable or use something smaller like what Bushcables UK uses

if anyone knows how to do this, please post

an eye nut of the right thread could theoretically screw onto the rear Ubolt stud (trimmed to length)
but odds are it won’t end up finally sitting at the bottom turned to an ideal angle after it’s screwed on.
But, an eye nut would mean no welding required.
IDK if they make a swiveling type, or way to put a bearing to add swiveling, but that would add cost. And more parts to fail.

Or, maybe the cheap U-bolt can be treated as one time use, and has enough ability in the thread to simply overtighten the eye loop nut to whatever position you want, even if that stretches the thread. And done.
Then if needed, replace again for $2-4.
Hopefully that tightening, combined with thin profile of a Home Depot u-bolt, does not cause cracking into the powdercoat.
In which case, a clamp may be safer, but cost more.






pretty much something like this:



whatever somewhat medium size spring I found at Home Depot advertised being 10lb rating. I'll see if that's good enough or not in practice. At least it has some give. No spring means no give or tension.

what they had was an open spring. Easier for someone tampering to unhook it. Hopefully that doesn't happen.

they had like one drawbar spring (enclosed on both ends) and it was gigantic.
quicker releasing locking pins could even be added too.
though hopefully a bumper mounted sits wide enough to not need disconnecting.
As for fender-mounted, it may need disconnecting every time to open the hood.

maybe a drawbar spring is not useable. I see McMaster sells two kinds. Basic expansion, and drawbar, with drawbar being a minimum of 4" length which sounds too big for this application.

 

when i build these back for my land rover years ago I used the draw bar spring from a dog run cable kit

 

crap! For $187 asking price… you could buy all the tools, cables, and stuff from Home Depot/lowes for waaaaay leas than that. We use to make them for jeeps foe around $30. Not sure what im missing, but $187 is crazy if i read their site correctly

 

it’s probably not going to sell. You are right.
1. it’s listed for more than NHO that comes with brackets for truck and roof rack
2. It doesn’t even have the nice style of slim turnbuckle

if you do get the slim turnbuckle I’ve seen them be $20+ each, so total cost is gonna vary based on the quality of materials used.

 

$10 jenico Dog Tie Out Cable, 10/15/20/30/40/50/70/100/150FT Runner Cable with Swivel Hook and Shock Spring, Dog Leash Run Tether for Yard Outdoor and Camping,for Small to Medium Pets Up to 500 LBS

https://www.amazon.com/jenico-Runne...ords=dog+run+cable&qid=1706129421&sr=8-5&th=1okay this was way cheaper and a nicer looking kit then what i used back in the old times... but for $20 i can have 2 kits and a trip to the local hardware store and some shrink tube and im well on the way to some awesome brush wires. heck i may make some for the Tacoma this month.

 

I wanted an easy and quick setup for my limb risers. I will be making a change once I install my snorkel, but this is what I did recently.

I did not want to use plastic coated wire because I believe it cause some things to snag on it and I expect the plastic would get gouged and look bad fairly quickly. I chose 1/8” stainless steel wire for the risers. I used some 5” extension springs I already had, and I used some 12” vinyl coated 4mm stainless steel sections I got off Amazon for each end. I figure the vinyl coated wire will stay in place for the most part on my roof rack and ARB bumper better than uncoated wire.



Once I had the 1/8 wire measured, I added the crimp loops to each end; however, on one end I permanently attached one end of the 5” spring with the loop.

When I install them, I wrap one of the 12 vinyl coated sections around the 1” bar on my roof rack. Then I used a stainless locking ring to connect the spring to the vinyl coated wire.



Next, I wrap another section of the Vinyl coated wire around my brush guard on my bumper and connect the other end of the 1/8” wire with another locking ring.



Simple, quick, and replaceable.



Per the OPs question, if I did not have my ARB bumper or roof rack I would fabricate a bracket like what NHO sells for the under hood mount and fabricate a bracket that would mount to the roof mounting points like my roof rack uses.

 

the better the parts, the more they cost
and the cleaner simpler and less jankier it looks
Plus functioning better

the NHO kit is one of if not the cleanest design out there

just need to figure out how to make mine attach to the highest point of the rack and bumper with a spring.
-a spring will provide give to thick branches to reduce stress
-high two-bolt rack point clears better and is stronger
-attaching to bumper hoop; same thing. Clears better, is stronger
-less interference with hood opening
-spring also necessary to allow for body to frame/bumper flex

I need to figure out where to get that spring.

yes, adhesive shrink tubing can be used to clean up the look. I saw Home Depot has a crimp tool.

maybe your bumper mount is better than the idea of a u bolt with eye nut
as that would look like crap.
Only bracket that would look good is the ARB CB antenna bracket, but at $50/ea fuck that. Maybe only actually worth it to run a single one for its original purpose to hold an antenna.

I might make a bracket that mounts to the highest point of the rack using more bolts

possibly out of flat steel bar stock from Home Depot

hopefully that loop is not moving abrading the bumper, or the wire not shaking around. If not then I guess that 5” spring works, might consider trying that.
Whatever spring I got cheap at Home Depot is much smaller and may not be up to the task.

 

seen them at my local ACE, and Home depot and Lowes in the past they can be a pain to find at some locations though.

 

I got my spring from McMaster Carr part # 9654K237. Its not Stainless and will probably upgrade it to stainless at some point but it was what I had laying around at the time. came in a pack of 6 for ~ $17.00

 

Honestly what I’m most concerned about is what pressure spec the spring has to have to work for this, and haven’t found any info on it

the little spring I got from Home Depot is rated at 10lbs which I’m guessing is not enough

1. to avoid excessive shaking while driving
2. to provide enough tension so the wire is taut straight and not sagging

I’m guessing the 5” spring is a higher spec due to being thicker and larger

the cheap little ones at Home Depot are smaller than a pinky. Probably would look too small and goofy installed too.

 

here’s pics of how it’s currently set up
don’t know when I’ll figure out higher rack mount, bumper mount, determining ideal longer cable length

or if higher rack mount is even really needed (multiple ways to do it)

Might try to figure out how to add a quick release, or put easier releasing clips in the turnbuckle pins for a more streamlined look

as of now to remove it I grab pliers to loosen the turnbuckle locking nuts. Not instant but doesn’t take long either.

I don’t know if the hood would clear the wire in any case but it definitely doesn’t clear the turnbuckle now.



I’ll see what the hardware store has

Heat shrink, carabiners, SS sheathed cable in thickness of your choice, crimping it into “eye end fittings” is the easy part.

I wonder if there’s such a thing or what it’s called as bearing washers
So if using bumper U bolt with an eye nut, to make it able to swivel when screwed tight



another possible option but not cheap
Don’t know if it fits Sherpa
Prinsu hook
in order to secure with two bolts rather than one, and not tilt under force

less intrusive than cheaper drilling a hole to put eye bolts


actually, there is confirmed fitment Sherpa stuff



angled rack bracket probably better than flat one, to prevent limb riser cable from hitting the front fairing area.

the Sherpa smiley is offered in 45 and 90 deg
If using that option not sure which is better for clearance
Might test with a cardboard mockup first

looks stronger and easier to attach to than their 90deg antenna bracket

this looks clean (bumper tube)
looks like SS rubber-lined clamps painted black, with flat bar welded on
but bolt at the rear for use mounting lights forward, so it's not welded for best appearance if flipped to use as limb riser hook point



found these, thinner than the ugly bulky wide ones
and a lot cheaper than ARB CB bracket which is $50/ea x2=$100
looks better than above

full circle, rubber ring
should be less harsh to powdercoat