Long Travel BS Thread

Did you call Evan Weller racing though?

 

yes, lower links are intentionally very close to the u-joints at the carrier bearing side, and the axle ends are just in front of the vertical axle centerline. so any plunge concerns would likely be pinion angle shift related, vs the axle traveling with a varying radius relative to the u-joints.

. current calcs show about 2.3 degrees pinion change between full bump and drop. id be thrilled if all i had to do to the driveshaft is weld in a longer slip yoke and reballance, but i may not even have to do that if its anywhere near your plunge number.

 

left a message

 

You won’t find others.

But if I were in your shoes and wanted it to be a budget. 9” would not be that. I would be center mounting a GM 9.25 front diff.

 

This is my plan exactly
Out of an 07 Sub

 

heard back from evan weller. They said you either run high pinion, or run on the coast side, and he would recommend running a 10" ring gear on the coast side.

I think I'm gunna go back to my original plan of narrowing a tundra diff. They are just really hard to find and pretty expensive up here where I am. The 9.25 was also an option that I was looking for.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/04-tacoma-turned-buggy.165208/page-11#post-24125012

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-long-travel-discussions.750980/page-11#post-29463458

 

Thanks for the links! I wouldn't be running the add at all though. If you machine down the face around 1/4-1/2", a CV will plug straight in to the passenger side

 

If you need me to bring one up in feb i probably can

 

I'll let you know for sure. Would be sick

 

Tundra diff isn’t nearly as strong as the 9.25. Don’t really see why it would even be entertained. You can get a used 9.25 for a couple hundred bucks. Might have 3k in the entire setup all said and done. Pretty common swap for people that want to center mount.

 

That's true as far as strength. All depends on what people's end in mind is. Since my whole front end will essentially be tundra component parts, it works well for me as far as reducing complexity. Plus, I only paid 150 for my tundra front diff. I won't be center mounting though either.

 

Dynatrac has an ifs diff, PROROCK XD60-IFS
Don't know if it could fit or not
https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/prorock-xd60-gm-ifs/
https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/now-i...rac-strength-durability-new-prorock-xd60-ifs/

 

Now that’s an interesting one…

 

That looks very sweet. Will be a bit trickier to fit with the pinion on the passenger side, but I'm sure it's doable.

 

Sequoia runs the same shit and nobody is lookin for spare parts for those and has irs so you got double the chances of getting a diff

 

Just get a passenger drop t-case. Though, I’ve never seen a small D60 housing. I still vote GM 9.25. About the only way you’re getting out of this without dropping 15-20k into a diff, gears, axles and driveshaft. Plus, 934 stubs are already available for them.

 

Already have the driver drop atlas.

I think our used market up here just kinda sucks. It's hard to find stuff.

 

Found some info with a few dimensions
https://dynatracdefense.com/wp-cont...c-Defense-Info-Sheet-ProRock-XD60-IFS-IRS.pdf

 

What about heat treatment? Is there any benefits of using chromolly in an annealed form over mild steel?