Truck pulling right

Brought my truck into the shop today to get an alignment because my steering wheel was off and was pulling to the right. After being in the shop for 2 hours the tech said that he tried numerous times to get the wheel to go straight but it continues to want to pull to the right. On top of that my one caster bolt is seized and they couldn’t adjust the caster. They blamed the issue on this and said I need a lower control arm/new adjustment bolt. Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas on what to do with this? (Before and after pics are attached)

 

LCA adjusters seize/rust up quite often and yeah it will cause things like this. Sometimes the only option is to cut the old bolts out and either replace the LCA bushings or buy a whole new LCA + bolts. Ask me how I know!

 

Okay so you believe that the caster is what’s causing the wheels to pull to the right?

 

I believe that the seized adjuster(s) are not allowing your alignment tech to make a good alignment. You need to repair that. And if I'm reading the alignment pictures you shared above correctly, then yeah having caster off by 2 degrees between each side is definitely not ideal at all. Fix your LCA/adjuster issue and then an alignment should be no problem.

 

Typically, if caster is substantially different from side to side, the vehicle will pull to the side with less caster.


That said, My truck has ALWAYS pulled ever so slightly to the right.
Just enough that a 5 count puts you shoulder line of the road.
If we correct it enough to make it "better", It then pulls you to the left "harder" when traveling in the left lane, where the road crown pulls you to the left.

My point is: Yes, you need to fix the caster issue.
And after you fix it. If it still pulls to the right "Slightly", don't fight it. I consider it "Normal"
And I've gotten 75k+ out of my tires.

 

Thanks everyone for the input. I will be replacing my LCAs asap. Any brand you recommend? Not looking to spend a whole lot as in the future I plan on a full revamp on my front end

 

Idiot alignment tech, they made it nearly undriveable to get the camber in spec. Clueless.

It had a better camber/caster difference before they touched it.

 

Here's what people need to understand. Those alignment cams LOVE to freeze up, quicker than you think. As soon as the tech starts trying to turn the bolt it immediately flattens the cam tabs on the frame and customers get pissed. Don't drop your truck off for an alignment with cam bolts that haven't been touched for 2-10 years and then get mad when they just do a toe-and-go and ignore everything else

Not saying OP is mad, just mentioning this because it's a common thing people post about..

My advice, to help facilitate a good experience for both you and the tech is to make sure they're unstuck before you bring the vehicle in. If you're not sure, tell the service writer. Give them some warning so they know what they're getting into. If they are frozen, don't get upset if they want to charge you to fix them.

 

Yeah definitely not mad they’re original parts on a 14 year old truck. But for the future I definitely will be checking below I go in from now on!

 

Yeah I bought a lifetime alignment on my truck about 7 years ago.
I have mine checked every oil change. And they claim to adjust it every so often.
I know they do sometimes, because I've had to tighten the LCA bolt a few times.
Not they they were "loose". But they will make a popping noise if you don't get them TIGHT.

 

Yeah not happy about that. Almost feels like I have to hold the wheel straight or it pulls to the right. But that’s what I get for trying to save a penny at Mavis

 

uneven specs cause issues.

bolts size. Control arms wear out. The truck isn’t new.
If they saw an issue they probably should’ve told you and stopped right there. An alignment can’t be done if there are issues making the truck not alignable.

step 1 of an alignment
Inspect components

A dealer wouldn’t align a vehicle with torn control arm bushings. It would not hold alignment. It would result in customer complaint, customer seeking refund, etc aka waste of time.

don’t know what Mavis is. Doesn’t sound like a specialist.

 

Yup, a vehicle will always pull to the side with less caster. The fact that your driver side is seized is the issue.

How many miles do you have on the truck.... id probably just replace both LCA's at the same time and LCA hardware (making sure to coat with some marine grease to forego the issue in the future)

 

Quick update: I replaced both lower control arms and all bolts associated with doing so. Got it aligned perfectly now. But just driving home from the shop now and my slip indicator light now illuminates as soon as I start moving. Not when I start the truck. But as soon as it goes into drive or reverse and starts rolling. Brought it right back to the shop and they’re currently looking at it. I’m preparing for them to say they have no idea what the issue is. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be or know what to do to fix this. No other lights are illuminated and from what I can tell all of the wheel electronic connectors are connected properly

 

I have always found heat to be a good way of breaking frozen bolts. Could it be used here?

 

I died laughing when I read your comment

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ibrate-your-vsc-computer-the-easy-way.467485/

Zero point next.