What is a needle bearing, do RWD Tacomas have them?

No not installing myself. Local shop quoted me $95 an hour, said if they gotta pull the strut it'll probably be about 5-6 hours labor (including rear blocks) plus alignment and wheels/tires mounted and balanced. Probably all in about $600-$700.

 

I think its safe to say that when you choose a SR with the utility package that you're not rolling in the dough. It would be wise for you to learn to work on your own stuff to the extent that you are physically capable. Think of it like paying yourself back in labor at $95. Of course you cant do the alignment or mount and balance the wheels yourself but you should be capable of saving yourself a chunk of change with installing a simple spacer or 5100 lift.

 

I usually don't have a problem wrenching myself. I've installed tons of coilovers on vehicles in the past. And no, just because I chose this truck doesn't mean I'm poor. I'm actually quite well off, own my own home on 10 acres of land and I work remote. I pick this truck because I wanted something to haul small loads to the dump, take my girlfriend and I camping. My F150 is a v8 gas hog and I don't drive it as much as I use it to tow my other toys, I like having a small truck (used to own a Ford Ranger back in the day), so that's why I got the simple 2wd Tacoma. Didn't want to spend $40k for a Tacoma, I just wanted the small truck didn't need TRD OR stuff. I got this truck for 27k and it had 13k miles, can't find a 4x4 with that low of miles - wanted a reliable engine, nothing fancy. Always loved Tacoma's.

I have a 2021 WRX right now that is on E85 400whp, and a 2014 F150 XLT 4x4. Don't judge a book brother.

Frankly, I just don't have the time right now. We're expecting a baby and I'm busy working. Easier for me to pay someone else.

 

Needle bearing. Original and seal. Picture digging it out. ECGS bushing.

 

I'd consider that for a 1" front lift, but not 2". Couldn't tell you why exactly, just how I feel about it.

 

I could not find any 1" front lifts for the Tacoma, do they exist? I don't care, I just want it level - height is just a benefit. I heard proper level is 1" in rear for every 2" up front to ensure proper level, is this not true?

 

‘Not sure about a rwd. On my 4x4 it depends on how much preload I add or subtract. The extended kings started me off with a minimum of 1”.

Some Bilstein (e.g. 5100, 6112) allow the lift to be adjusted by where the height or preload clips are set. Other factors are the coil springs (e.g., 550, 600, 650, 700 lbs) and the weight of the vehicle.

Essentially take an educated guess and then adjust accordingly from there.

 

Yeah so basically unless I do new coilovers, it's 2" for leveling kit then?

 

After some research, think I'll just hold off. Cancelled the leveling kit for now. 265/70/17 fits stock and that's what I went with. I feel like if I do the leveling kit, maybe 275/70 would be better, plus - with E load tires, ride might be a little too rough, even when used now and then. Might do the Bilstein shocks 5100, since they're adjustable and under $1000. Should be an easier install too since you don't have to deal with a spring compressor.

Thanks for all the info and stuff everyone

 

You are not going to like the E rated tires, I guarantee. Stay with C or LT's. I have the 275/70's, E rated, for all the rocky terrain out here in the desert. For what you want, don't go with the E rated tires, you are not going to want to drive that truck to the corner to get the mail.

 

I had terrible luck in the past with punctures. Been through lots of tires. Asked about this, ended up going with Toyo AT3's - their C load is heavier than their E loads (49lb vs 50lb). Didn't want K02 C - Load, have them on my F150 and they suck as they get worn. Didn't like Falkens, didn't want Nitto's (seemed poor in wet and snow), so it really limited my options. The AT3's didn't come with a nice tread pattern or sidewall in their SL or XL loads, only C and E. C load were also backordered for 90+ days according to Tire Rack. That's why I think holding off on the lift helps anyway, the truck will be terrible with the combo of the two. Honestly, more I look at the threads on here and I found a 2/1 lifted thread, the more I kinda don't like it. It doesn't look as level as I was hoping for, still looks like the front-end is nose high, even with a 1" block. Almost seems like you'd need a 2/2 lift to get proper rake, or maybe it's just the nature of the spacer lift. Either way, gonna just keep it stock. I actually don't mind the ride height but the lift would look good, don't think this little 2.7L would be a smart move for the pure performance gain though the more I think about it.

 

I had cooper 265/70/17 AT using 4Runner pro rims, stock suspension. No rubbing at all on my 18 SR utility 2.7L. Ran great

 

Those are E tires right?

 

No they weren’t however the cooper discoverer maxx are E rated I believe though
I used the discoverer AT 4S A/B rated at that time

 

This is the kit I will be Ordering one day when I do a 2.75inch lift
and have them install it when the lift gets installed, but that mite be like another 1yr plus from now... don't know exactly why I need this, but after doing my research better be safe then sorry.....
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

FYI, you do need to compress the springs to install 5100s, unless you buy them pre-assembled with new springs.

 

I stand corrected and glad you are reconsidering a suspension lift.

 

I know, right?

Situation went from "I have a cheap truck" to "this is my backup truck".

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/spacer-lift-vs-preload-spacer-vs-coilover-preload/

 

For anyone in the future who reads this thread and is curious…this is the shortest video I could find that explains the ECGS Bushing well without a lot of extra BS:

https://youtu.be/krJ9_2L48x4?si=1OB5YTWpr9Itp0ei