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Any rock climbers here?

Discussion in 'Sports, Hobbies & Interests' started by Experience_Life, May 16, 2010.

  1. May 16, 2010 at 2:40 PM
    #1
    Experience_Life

    Experience_Life [OP] Active Member

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    Just wondering if anyone around here shares my addiction? I'm more into bouldering vs. rock climbing due to the harder moves & the sense of being more "free" while climbing. I'm about to move to Colorado to where I can do it about every afternoon :cool:
     
  2. May 16, 2010 at 7:47 PM
    #2
    barlowrs

    barlowrs Well-Known Member

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    Typically Trad climbing here. Do my share of bouldering as well. You want hard...do some big walls....that gets intense.

    ALso LOVE ice climbing!
     
  3. May 16, 2010 at 7:51 PM
    #3
    YellowDog01

    YellowDog01 Well-Known Member

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    Trad for me also. I'm not too intense. I do some climbing up in North Carolina around Boone and Hendersonville. I climbed a 3 pitch(Looking Glass) last summer. It's fun!
     
  4. May 17, 2010 at 9:05 AM
    #4
    Experience_Life

    Experience_Life [OP] Active Member

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    I love Trad, it's definitely a great workout. I don't want to limit myself to just one main style though & i've been stuck on bouldering for a while now. I'm looking for some good routes up north, any ideas?
     
  5. May 17, 2010 at 9:16 AM
    #5
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    Bouldering and deep water soloing here. Top rope is fine too, but not my favorite.
     
  6. May 17, 2010 at 9:17 PM
    #6
    NAZ

    NAZ Well-Known Member

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    Down here in Austin its mostly about the sport climbing and deep water solo. (Which is the best rush ever....falling 40 feet up to the water!) Been climbing for about 5 years now. What kind of ratings are you guys getting?
     
  7. May 18, 2010 at 7:26 PM
    #7
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Trad, Sport, Big Wall, Pebble Wrestling, Ice, Mixed, Snow, Peakbagging...

    You got it, I'll climb it. Not a specialist.

    Anyone's ever in NC looking to climb, shoot me a PM. I'll tour you.
     
  8. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:05 PM
    #8
    TacomaJack09

    TacomaJack09 Well-Known Member

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    Bump!

    Just searched and found this thread! Just got a membership to RockQuest which is a local rock climbing "gym" i guess you can say. I love to boulder, but would like to get into some lead climbing, which is the reasoning for the membership I guess.

    Chris Sharma FTW!!!

    V15 anyone?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoYjuLWggto
     
  9. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:16 PM
    #9
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    Please, please, please do not treat trad like gym climbing. Watched a guy hit the deck who was apparently an amazing gym climber, but after 40 feet was pumped out and way above his 2nd piece of pro.

    Lets just say when we heard he moved a toe the next week we were stunned.
     
  10. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:23 PM
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    TacomaJack09

    TacomaJack09 Well-Known Member

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  11. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:23 PM
    #11
    DAN_FPC

    DAN_FPC Well-Known Member

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    I just got back from a bouldering trip down to bishop. That place is so sick. We sure dont have bouldering like that in Canada. Cant wait to go back!
     
  12. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:27 PM
    #12
    TacomaJack09

    TacomaJack09 Well-Known Member

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    Yea, definitely not. It's like apples to oranges.

    But gym climbing is good place to start! :D
     
  13. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:28 PM
    #13
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously through myself Moderator

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    Ah yes, off of one of the Dosage videos. Inspiring segment and the song is pretty killer as well.

    I don't climb anywhere near as often as I'd like to. I work the Metolius Rock Rings into my lifting routines to keep my contact strength from completely falling away but it's just not the same as the real thing.

    Toughest successful outdoor climb for me was rated 5.9, but I've been away from it for too long to even attempt that these days. Longest climb was the Durrance Route to the summit of Devils Tower. Awesome experience that I can't recommend highly enough!
     
  14. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:30 PM
    #14
    AndrewFalk

    AndrewFalk Science!

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    :)
    I love bouldering! :D
     
  15. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:36 PM
    #15
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    Is it just the paddler in me, or does it bother anyone that watching Sharma climb is like watching a game of memory. By the time he gets up something he has climbed it like 50 times in already in fits and starts and his grips are all layered in chalk. He is just climbing from muscle memory at that point. I'm not taking away from how hard those climbs are, just making a comment on his style of climbing.

    Also he bolts the crap out of everything!
     
  16. Mar 30, 2011 at 1:46 PM
    #16
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously through myself Moderator

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    That's pretty much how it works for any climber working on a new route. Put him on an established 5.10 and he'd fly up the thing.
     
  17. Mar 30, 2011 at 2:07 PM
    #17
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Sharma's strong on boulders and sport routes, but as an overall climber his repetoire pales to a lot of his more versatile peers.

    You want to see badasses, check out Alex Huber, Tommy Caldwell, or Ed Viesturs.

    The first two climb 14s in the sport arena and also put up some of the longest, hardest trad, ice, mixed, and bigwall routes in the world, which takes a VASTLY wider array of skills and ability than clip-up climbs.

    As for Ed...the only high altitude mountaineer he has to pay deference to is Reinhold Messner. And NOBODY will ever touch what Messner accomplished, so that debate is closed.
     
  18. Mar 30, 2011 at 2:30 PM
    #18
    TacomaJack09

    TacomaJack09 Well-Known Member

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    X2 I think he just finds the route most comfortable for him, and he takes it till he falls at a problem. Then he restarts that route till he overcomes the obstacle. I def see what your saying tho. and Chalking the crap out of everything isn't a bad thing, esp if he's the lead climber lol.

    I'm sure you've seen his competition climbs? Can't really climb from muscle memory on those. But I guess the other side of the argument is, this mans climbed a lot, so certain problems he comes to, he's going to resort to muscle memory. Which is part of climbing.

    Muscle memory pertains to all sports, even kayaking. Think about it..
     
  19. Mar 30, 2011 at 3:24 PM
    #19
    flightcancled

    flightcancled Addicted

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    Muscle memory is part of everything we do. And really when we learn something it is very often building on or combining skills, which are a form of muscle memory. It's just a different approach from a different sport.
     
  20. Mar 30, 2011 at 4:11 PM
    #20
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Tick marks are poor form regardless of the venue. Real climbers climb onsight.
     

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