Brake Pedal To Floor After Front End Job!!

Across the past 2 weeks I have fully rebuilt the front end(tie rods, upper lower control arms, sway bar links etc). The truck was on jack-stands in the front with the emergency break applied to max depression. After I finished the job I took the truck off the stands and relieved the EBrake. I instantly noticed my break pedal goes straight to the floor. My EBrake light is on.

Things I’ve Checked/Noticed
1: My rear portion of the master cylinder is very low on fluid.

2: I’ve checked and found no obvious leaks in the break lines front to rear.

Other Thoughts/Questions
Heard from a few posts on here that it could be my master cylinder is shot. It is oem. Also I feel like with the fluid being low the cylinder could have sucked in some air which could be causing this.
The trucks brakes were 100% perfect before it went on jackstands and had the EBrake engaged for roughly 2 weeks.

Any Ideas/Thoughts would really help. I’m super confused!!

 

Bleed your brakes too get any air out of the lines.

 

I have a 2010, so I have traction control and a brake-actuated LSD. My brake pedal got stuck to the floor and it turned out to be the ABS module. After replacing that, everything is fine. I know a 2006 would not have traction control, but all 2nd Gens have ABS, so it's possible your ABS module failed due to age like mine did. My truck has almost 190K miles and got a frame replacement under recall just over two years ago, and I've noticed that a lot of obscure parts have failed in my truck since then...

 

Light will illuminate if you're low on brake fluid.

 

The "Brake" light on the dash is on because you are low on brake fluid. If it wasn't low before the brake job then the fluid went some where.

Top off the brake fluid, bleed the brakes properly and then search for the leak. If you have a vacuum brake booster I have seen where a master cylinder would leak into the brake booster, but this is rare!

 

The fluid had to go somewhere. I’d find the leak.
Whether that’s with it full or hooked up to a pressure bleeder and looking to see where it may be leaking from.

 

I found the problem earlier. I heard a hissing noise coming from under the hood. A brake line deep inside the wheel well behind a bolt head was cracked and pissing out fluid. That would explain everything.

Thank you all for the comments, first post on here glad to see guys actively helping, gotta love it.

Furthermore I broke the bleeder screw on the oem drivers side caliper. So with replacing the brake line I have a caliper to buy… and rotors and pads.. that’s the way it goes I guess.

Thanks again.

 

Oh, and welcome to TW!

 

My thoughts; truck was jacked up in the front for two weeks (is that right?) causing the brake fluid to become low in the master cylinder. Once the truck was leveled, you applied the brake pedal inducing air into the system.
I would try doing a gravity feed/bleed. It's a one man operation without any special equipment other that a small jar with tubing to capture the draining fluid. You do not need to press the brake pedal either.
Place one end of the tubing on the bleeder the other in the jar emersed in a small amount of brake fluid, crack the bleeder and watch it flow until you see no bubbles or fresh fluid.
Start with the rear PS, then rear DS, the front PS and finish with the front DS. Keep topping of the reservoir. The PS rear will take the longest

I did this procedure on my 07 several months ago to replace my 12 year old brake fluid with fresh fluid. Worked like a champ and improved the stopping ability of my truck. Bsides the fresh brake fluid and a wrench to crack the bleeder this is what I used.



Worth a try...

 

fluid does not disappear at an angle.

air does not enter by pressing the pedal.

the proper tool is a pressure bleeder. One man operation with speed. Pressure to force air out, fluid flow, and check for leaks.

 

Get a small set of metric flare wrenches and it can help avoid those problems for your next brake bleeding

Most small box and open end just don't work well on tight fittings like that

 

it's a bleeder screw. They fit a 6pt socket.
Wrench does not alter breaking. Soak in penetrant ahead of time, heat, and other techniques do.

 

IMO, you have nothing to lose by trying to salvage the caliper. You can soak what's left of the bleeder screw overnight, then apply some heat to the body of the caliper near the bleeder screw (but not on the bleeder screw) and then use reverse drill bits and a screw extractor to remove the remains of the bleeder screw:

$11 Screw Extractor Set, 37# Cr-Mo & 6542 HSS Steel Cobalt Left-Hand Drill Bit, Easy Out Broken Bolt Remover Reverse, Ez Out Stripped, Rounded-Off, Damaged Bolts, Screws&Studs Removal Tool (10-Pieces)

https://www.amazon.com/REBRA-Screw-...6&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

Sometimes the screw will come out with just the use of the reverse drill bit.

 

How much did it cost you to replace the abs module?