Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

I hope this kickstarts others' willingness to dig into these motors - makes it less scary for people who don't know what to expect.

It's probably still possible to force the dealer, but I'm far more inclined to move on with my life and shy away from the negativity. Like the world needs more negativity. We have an election that will provide all we need.

 

I haven't used pink or red antifreeze in 25 years. Whatever is on sale.
It's just food coloring.

 

Here's the anti-freeze I have, now I don't know whether it's red or pink and just can't be bothered to look

 

Perfect.

 

You are correct.
However... In your shoes, I might inclined to post a nice picture or two to yelp / google showing the maintenance records along with the sludge. Simply stating facts... let folks reach their own conclusions...

In reality, most dealer clients would have been handed a repair bill for a new engine, and would be non the wiser as to what is going on.
I have to know things are done properly as far as maintenance. I'll do it myself as far as I can. I do enjoy it to a degree... A good occasion for a beer. - Although, I'm leaning to a slight preference to the EVs required maintenance regime...

That one really amounts to just drinking the beer - and not much else!

(Maybe it is time to check the wiper fluid level again - where is my beer!)

 

My guess is that I'd do more 'good' by posting here than whatever I'd get for going after them, maybe convince more people to do their own maintenance, or at least check. Tomorrow maybe we'll have it running again and I can drive past the dealer as I move on with my life?

 

Holy crap that's bad. I used to work at 2 different Ford dealers, I'll NEVER let someone work on my vehicles after the shit I've seen.

 

Got the motor in, tried to start but sputters, idles at about 500rpm then eventually dies, which I think is exactly what it did in @Buttskevin21 truck...hmmm. Throws about 7 codes from everything from the transmission to cam sensors. Luckily I have a whole set of sensors for everything from the original motor. We're going to swap the cam sensors to known-good ones as a troubleshooting step while the battery re-charges. Anything else we should try?

It acts like it's starved for fuel, do I need to bleed the injectors? I thought that was only on diesel rigs though.

We are running the entire original intake manifold and all it's sensors, so that didn't change.

 

17 TRD Sport, supposedly this motor came out of a 17 and has vacuum thing hanging off the back of one of the cam banks, so I believe it's the right motor?

 

You have a vacuum booster, so yeah you need the vacuum pump. I thought @Buttskevin21 put a block off plate on it to run it in his OR, but maybe he reinstalled the vacuum pump for the sale? He’ll have to answer that.

The issues he had were due to not having the sealing ball installed in the back of the cam. On vacuum booster trucks you need the vacuum pump instead of the block off plate and sealing ball that the hydraulic booster trucks (TRD OR & Pro) use.

If he did reinstall the vacuum pump, then I’m not sure what else the issue could be.

 

Be nice if it was just a ground wire.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-complete-2gr-v6-engine-pnw.810636/

 

It's just bolted with a couple bolts onto the back of one of the cams, is there anything else I could've missed? I don't know exactly what it does, somehow relates to oil pressure to the cam train?

 

The cam that drives the vacuum pump has a hole in the back of it which is how they drill the oil channels into the cam. Then the vacuum pump models have a little nub with an o-ring that goes into that hole and seals it which maintains oil pressure in the engine and possibly provides oil to the vacuum pump itself for lubrication. Not 100% on if the pump is lubed or not but the photos seem to show a hole that could be for lubrication of the pump internally.

TRD OR and Pro don't need the vacuum supply as they have electronically controlled hydraulic brake boosters. So engines going into those trucks have a sealing ball pressed into the back of the cam to seal the hole (which maintains oil pressure), and then they have a block off plate to cover the void where the pump would have bolted up to the motor.

If it were me, I might pull the vacuum pump and see how things look. Maybe it's missing the o-ring that goes into the cam or something.

And I don't know for sure, but I believe the lack of the sealing ball in offroad models, or lack of vacuum pump o-ring in vacuum booster models, probably causes the oil pressure to drop and the VVT to not work as expected. Which might be why the engine idles low and dies. Again, all just theories, I don't know for sure.

 

Whats the full list of codes?

Luckily cam sensors and VVT solenoids are easy enough to swap. Though with the state of your old engine, Id be hesitant to swap any parts over that are related to oil control

 

Don't know how you'd get it off to look since it's between the engine and firewall. Hope I did it right. Can I just crank the engine and see if that hose coming out of it generates vacuum, or am I understanding it right?

 

Pretty tight access, but I believe it's possible to remove/replace the pump with the engine in place. It was listed as a maintenance item for several years.

Your old motor had a vacuum pump on it as well, did the motor from Kevin look the same as your old one on the backside?

 

The pumps look the same, mine's dirtier

I'll try to get code list after we swap the cam sensors.

 

Tell that to my 2011 outback 3.6r with 330,000 miles on it.

 

I also wonder if there's any other steps you have to take to convince the computer that your motor swap was legit? I think the main thing it needs to learn relate to the air mass/control parts?