FINALLY, MUCH NEEDED VIDEO! P0328 Knock Sensor Wire Harness REPLACED! CHEWED BY MICE

https://youtu.be/SVtMoHSo_cQ
I had the "check engine" light and "trac off" light appear on my dash. I ran the code and got P0328, Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Bank 1. It turns out that MICE HAD CHEWED THE KNOCK SENSOR WIRES! I remove several parts and replace a few gaskets and the knock sensor wire harness. DETAILED REPAIR VIDEO!

 

Thanks for this video! My friend is throwing the same code (p0328), and interrupted a mouse enrout. We also discovered he has a timing cover leak. Yay!

 

There are at least 20 cats in my neighborhood and no rats or field mice. We still have quite a few squirrels but they seem to be smarter than the cats and keep to the trees.

 

Just wanted to drop by and say how grateful I am for this video that you made. I am not a mechanic, and all I have done myself on this truck was change the oil and a few filters. After watching your video about 3 dozen times, my dad and I went ahead and tackled this job ourselves.

I did manage to get the manifold out without removing the fuel rails, but it's a pain with that large plastic wire management piece in the back. It's also difficult to seat the bolts back into their holes with the rail still on, but I managed to do it with some needle nose pliers.

I also broke the clip you told me not to in the video haha. I just don't see any reasonable way someone would have got that out of there without breaking it. Hopefully I don't have any issues down the road, since it's connected to that coolant bypass tube people have issues with too.

All in all it took us about 6 hours from start to finish, it definitely helps to have an extra set of hands. I included the nest and the harness below. I bought a bore-scope before tearing everything apart to make sure my efforts weren't in vain. Definitely worth the 100$ I spent picking it up from Home Depot.

 

Sticky this

 

This should be stickied .

 

OP has 8 likes in two years.
Four content posts in same time frame.
It's on youtube.
You really think this has so much demand that people have trouble finding it?

 

Wow really…for those of us that don’t use google products( read their privacy notice and you won’t either) not wanting to scour the internet for something that can just be stickied here you sure are full of negativity.

Didn’t know that you were the main financial contributor behind these forums and had a say in whose shit was worthy or not.

Yeah you struck a nerve. I too looked at your post history. How many negative condescending and literally worthless responses out of the 11k plus does this make? Bet that’s an answer not quickly forthcoming.

Maybe try to be helpful instead of negative. But with the given history you must just think you have a say in everything. There’s a clinical term in the DSM manuals for that. I could give you the volume and subsection but you probably already know that.

I’ll expect lots of negative shit from you when I compile and post my trip report from Barrow AK to the Panama Canal. I’m sure you will have a lot of negative enlightenment for others on that issue as well. You’ve probably already done it on a tricycle and think it’s a waste of anyone’s time but yours.

 

Just had the codes thrown on my 2017. Sure it's rodents as they were in the cabin filter, engine compartment, etc. Ordered parts from the video. Chalk another one up...

When I do this repair, I will post my steps that might differ and include torques as I go. Seems like a pretty in-depth repair but not beyond impossible.

*When I'm done with this repair, I'll owe a big thanks to iceplant1 and a beer++

*Pics aren't needed because the video shows darn well everything you need to know. Always the case, 90% of the repair takes 10% of the time and the last 10% takes 90%. That connector in the back is one huge PIA!!!

My steps:
1. I built a tool (crude) to get those plastic clips out. A 1" piece of 1/8" aluminum with a "v" cut out tapered to the size of the clip w/tabs pushed in. Then angle grinded the end and bent about 1.5" 90 degrees. It helped
2. Pull that back connector and leave the clip attached. Then take the clip off the new one
3. Prior to installing new knock sensor harness, I electrical taped all exposed wires.

Ordered Parts:
1. Toyota OEM Intake Manifold Gaskets #17177-0P030 (need 2 or a pair)
2. Toyota 3.5L Intake Manifold Plenum Gasket #17176-31130
3. Toyota Knock Sensor Wire Harness #82219-04010
4. Insulator (black one, not blue) #23256-31010 (Qty 6)

Update: As I was removing the old chewed harness, a mouse come out and was watching me. Did you know mice can't swim! Neither did I.

Torque Specs (credit: iceplant1)
-The intake manifold bolts torque to 15 ft-lbs and can be tightened starting from the inside and going outwards.
-The air surge tank that bolts onto the intake manifold can then be installed and torqued down to 21 ft-lbs.
-The COPs or the coils for the spark plugs get torqued down to 60 in-lbs or about 5 ft-lbs and the spark plugs themselves can be torqued down to 13 ft-lbs, be careful not to overtorque these as they can snap and cause big problems.
-When installing the fuel rail make sure that all the fuel injectors are in good condition and that all the o-rings are in place and are in good condition. If everything is good you can place the fuel rail into position and push the injectors into their holes and start to torque the rail bolts to 90 in-lbs or about 8 ft-lbs.
-Toyota Tacoma Intake Manifold Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs
-Toyota Tacoma Intake Surge Tank Torque Specs : 21 ft-lbs
-Toyota Tacoma Ignition Coil Torque Specs : 5 ft-lbs
-Toyota Tacoma Spark Plug Torque Specs : 13 ft-lbs-
-Toyota Tacoma Fuel Rail Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs

 

Thanks so much IcePlant. Sucks to have to do this but glad you made the video to show how it's done. I feel like I have been vandalized. I think chipmunks did mine in.

 

Ok. I had to redo mine up to replacing the knock sensor harness. First pass I had several misfires after starting right up. Idled rough. I though I knew what I did wrong and have some tips to add. Ill post shortly.

The second time, w/o knock sensor replace took about 3 hours. All looks good now, checking for leaks.

 

Please post what went wrong. Im in the middle of doing this now.

I also need the PN for the little blue insulators in the lower fuel rail. One of mine was broken and another looks a bit chewed up. Will look elsewhere for the PN but if anyone knows it would be great.

 

Ring, Fuel (blue) PN 23258-31020

 

Here's a quick summary. I'll clean it up but you need it now.

1. I did the 2 day TIS for the repair manual. It was $25. I needed to see the di clamps question I had. See #3
2. I removed both lower fuel rails. One direct injector came out. I used a socket and tapped back in with wood hammer, lighty.
3. My big problem was the video doesn't show that the di clamps have a prong that must go in the fuel rail. Flip the rail to see holes. I missed that the first time assembling. TIS shows an image.
4. I coated my di middle rubber orings with wd40 to help assembly
5. I didn't but TIS says to remove 4 fuel rail studs to make it easier to install. I figured why chance breakage. You break them, your screwed. E30 torx.
6. I didn't but they say all 3 seals times 6x should be replaced.
7. I didn't but the lower fuel rail fuel crossover pipe should be replaced.
8. I ordered a new di from ebay because one came out with fuel rail. Replacing di lower seals takes a special tool and practice. I didn't use that yet.

Top to bottom stack = ~$30 x 6
#23258-31020 blue ring
#90301-05011 rubber oring
#23256-31010 fuel ring

TBD fuel crossover
Toyota Fuel Injector #232090P09001 2016-2023 Tacoma V6 3.5 $200-$300+ ea

Hope it helps. Good luck. That knock sensor is one giant pia.

Also, I think you could do the coolant crossover from this technique.
It's right there.

 

I think I’ll pay for the 2 day subscription TIS when I get ready to replace my chewed up antiknock harness. Not throwing any codes yet, but I had frequent issues with mice stripping my firewall insulation and making a nest under the intake. Last time I pulled all of that crap out with a modified shop vac, long nosed needle nosed pliers and a coat hanger hook, I saw with my remote camera that the harness ends for the anti knock wiring was chewed up and broken bare copper wire strands were visible.

Already have the gaskets on hand, but think I’ll order the 3 components for each injector as well.

Other downloads I’ll do from TIS will be for brake bleeding and such. I’m not wholly confident about folks here saying that the Off Road model can bleed its rear brakes and ABS module using the brake systems pump. I want to see it in print.

 

Are you saying that when you removed one of your lower fuel rails, an injector pulled up with it? Did you replace the injector with a new one that you referenced with the part number in the bottom of your post?

 

No. The one direct injector pulled out on me on one of the lower fuel rails. I thought I may need that so I preordered in case I needed it. I did not receive it yet, nor did I need it. Just being prepared.

*I also ordered the top di 3-stack of seals, o-ring 2x just in case I lost one I'd have a replacement. Usually a good way not to drop any.

Backed truck out of the garage today, no codes. A success. Other than the gaskets, I reused all injector seals. Upper injectors l just lightly wiped clean. My 2017 has 28k which may help with seals reuse?

The TIS isnt needed for the knock sensor. The video is the best ref. I just missed that those di clamps need to be indexed in the fuel rail hole.

 

Ah, understand now thanks for the pic of the di clamp. Mines a 2018 with about 36K on it.

 

Yeah. you start pulling on those wires on the di's to get the rails off and they get the clamp 'protrusion's' off. I think in the video he spends some time aligning them but wasn't obvious to me.

I tapped the di that came out with a socket that fit the rim of the di and not hitting on top. If you have any other questions, just ask.
-Matt

 

Looks like I get to do this repair now. Thanks rodents! Started up the truck this morning and check engine light is on. Pulled code P0328. I live in the woods and know mice have been in the engine bay. Found some poop and what looks like the nest down below. I got the part numbers for the plenum and intake seals as well as the harness itself but should I purchase any of the injector O-rings? If so does anyone have numbers? Mines a 2020 with 38k on it.