The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

Thats the one! Awesome job as always.

 

Yeah I have a few apps as well as this little charger doohickey to keep an eye on it.



This morning the battery voltage was a little lower than usual at 12.1v as it was a bit colder (low 50's) and I had several power hatch and sliding door openings/closing while loading up.

Upon start up it went to 14.9-15v and settled down to 14.7-14.8v after about 10 minutes of driving.

After about an hour it will hover around 14.4-14-5v

Surpisingly the voltage remains quite stable regardless of rpm's.

Pretty much stays the same at idle as well as normal driving.

Even when I crank up all accessories (front/rear AC, OBA compressor, fan cooled LED's, etc.), the change in voltage is minimal.

I do notice a bit of a drop down into the high 13's when parking (EPS), but that's normal

 

I put them on everything I drive (and I do mean everything lol)

https://youtu.be/hc_hHKZarA8?si=JXGSZQpt4RQbsZMe

https://youtu.be/PoWnPjPdXNo?si=0D-IK0_V-yo51NOn

https://youtu.be/dZBO3x_RyFw?si=eZG0KrBo9sYoA6Yu

 

Haha. I remember watching Your Nitrous Goped Vid LONG ago...

 

LOL that was over 2 decades ago

Yeah, that one didn't get train horns, but I did put a small air horn on it (same one on my ebikes).

 

The alternator should only be charging at the peak when it is replenishing the battery. This is the cycle charge spec. For most daily drivers, the biggest replenishment is the starter draw, which is why voltage is highest right after starting the vehicle as the alternator works to replenish it. Operating at 14.7-14.8v for an hour says that your batteries were drained from your electronics always running on the vehicle and the alternator is working to replenish the battery from that draw. After the batteries are replenished, the voltage should drop out of the cycle charge window. While the vehicle is running the alternator provides the power, the battery is just a bank/buffer for power draw and just needs a maintenance charge. If you continue to be in the cycle charge range when you should be in the maintenance range you will damage the battery.

 

bravo!! Clean set up !!

 

Thank you sir.

 

Is there a definitive answer on whether you can/should use a recondition/repair cycle on an AGM battery? I’ve read 100 conflicting answers.

I’ve been using the

$100 NOCO Genius10 , 10A Smart Car Battery Charger, 6V and 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Motorcycle, ATV, Lithium and Deep Cycle Batteries

NOCO Genius10 to top off my X2 about two times a month. Since it has the “repair” mode, I figured I would run that once a year to combat sulfation caused by the stock charging voltage.

I ran that mode for the first time this week. The battery is 14 months old. Now the resting voltage is 12.5-12.6 even after being on the charger. I stupidly did not check the resting voltage just prior to using repair, but in the past it has always been at 12.8-12.9 when topped off.

Is it possible to do damage by “over-charging” with the higher voltage the repair mode uses?

Is it wrong to use this mode on a battery that doesn’t necessarily show degradation?

For the record, NOCO specifically states that repair mode can be used on any lead-acid battery, including AGM.

 

The internet never has definitive information.

The only definitive way to ensure good health for your agm is following the manufacturers recommendations for charging voltages listed on the battery.

 

Try shooting Northstar an email ask explain the vehicle can't charge to specifications listed on the battery. Then ask what their recommendation for charging would be based on that situation. That'd be my best guess to find the next best solution other than going by the printed charge instructions on the battery itself.
But I'd be curious to hear what they say, so if you do email them and get a response, post it up.

 

In order to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for charging voltages on my $400 battery, I need to ignore the manufacturer’s recommendation for charging voltages on my $40,000 truck.

Are there any negatives to changing the alternator output voltage? I have a lot of stock and aftermarket electronics.

 

Fwiw, here's a pdf for Odyssey's recommended bench chargers. They recommend charging about once per month to maintain it's condition at a charge current of 10-20 amps.

https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-approved-12V-chargers.pdf

 

That’s also a trade off. I was comfortable doing it knowing it could prematurely wear out the alternator.

We all don’t follow Toyotas recommendations. It’d be boring then.

 

@crashnburn80, thanks for starting this great write up. I've been looking at this thread for several days. Decided to read more into the pages. Thanks for taking the time to even go as far as contacting northstar. And all others that posted some good infomation, thank you. I learned much from this thread. I got ase certified when i was in high school in automotive electrical. But its been so long since ive used my knowledge ive more than likey forgot most of it. So, i learned much from reading all yoh guys comments. I decided to upgrade my truck to the X2Power 27F. My battery was starting to get some age. And since they had to order one for me, decided to go with it and pull the trigger before my current goes bad then wait lightyears to get mine. I got a ebay voltage booster for mine to try since I got it to my door for $28 and it works beautifully. It's one of the ones with a diode soldered on it. Came with a 5amp fuse. But I decided to pull it out and put the 7.5 factory fuse on it since I figured toyota must use that size for a reason. Maybe in the future I'll upgrade to a voltage booster pro or the hkb. I wanted to make sure my voltage was on par before I get my agm. I'd say its pretty spot on. Here lately it's been in the low 30s in my area in the morning. Cold start up on my 2015 4.0 when it has sat overnight, once the secondary air injection pump shuts off, highest I've seen for 2 days straight is 14.82 Volts. I always keep my obdlink mx+ plugged in my truck, I've been monitoring the voltage as I drive, once it gets good and hot, it will easily stay between 14.3-14.4 when I drive around for awhile. I definitely think crashnburn80 is right on this to, some may need to get the adjustable hkb since each truck may be a little different. It's awesome to see we have awesome people in this forum to help out our fellow tacoms enthusiasts.

 

Bulbs(especially bright leds that don’t have current control built in) can run hot since they are sensitive to small changes in voltage. Indicator lamps aren’t an issue since they are typically under driven to begin with. Current control is more stable and corrects for the added .6v than simple resistors where you would have to modify the lamp to keep the same current. Anything with a processor in it will already have the power supply protected since automotive power is notoriously noisy.

 

Did the install on my X2Power 27F today. I absolutely love it so far. I may have to do as crashnburn80 stated with a custom battery tie down. Wanted to make sure my voltage booster was working good before I dropped in my new agm. I go camping twice a year at a site with no running water and no power. So, this will be a nice addition for when I go.

 

I've been running my 27F in the stock location, but I'm flatbedding my truck and want to move it to a rear frame rail for better weight distribution and less weight on the front sheet metal, which is already prone to cracking.

Does anyone have a battery box that will fit these batteries?

 

Walmart online seems to have a selection.

 

If moving to a frame rail, group 31 would be my choice. Then keep a 24F or swap to a 35 in the stock spot for starter only. Lots of good options for group 31, I had a Rago but never used it, never got around to finding a home for it as intended.