Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Almost got into a chest thumping match over AI. WTF.

 

Cables and wires are not the same thing. Drive by wire means the electric throttle body is held open a smidge by the ECM at idle. That’s why there is no need for an IAC valve, but oh well. Hope you have a better week

 

Great to know…….I have a scan tool and Fusion
Didn’t know about the IR idea.

Thanks for the explanation…..appreciate it

 

This is awesome……….love this idea

 

Here's a funny story on my 2nd gen. Sunday evening, everything closed. I was filling my transmissions with fluid, had one of those big syringes for filling the transmission. It broke halfway through. Totally screwed driving to work on Monday. Desperation set in, finally dumped out shampoo bottle and used the pump to fill tranny. Took FOREVER but it got it done. I have 2 pumps now in my tool shed.

 

At that point just remove the shifter and dump in the oil.

 

Whatever works to get the truck running! I know how that hand pump shampoo style pumps work. Takes forever and is a workout for sure. Led me to make the sprayer / pump contraption. Pump works but can be a bit slow-ish, I enjoy a beer and wait for it to fill with a few pumps to pressurize in between.

 

We tried to look for any more loose connectors but couldn't find any. We also changed the transmission fluid successfully.

I drove the truck today about a mile. It still shifts hard, won't rev over 3000 rpm and won't go above 4th gear, which I think means it's stuck in limp mode.

We're swapping out the high pressure pump with the original motor one next, and my mechanic is leaning toward maybe something being wrong with the cam sensors, though I'm not really sure why they would fail.

Kind of running out of things to check, don't know why it's still setting the same 9 codes. Also, it still idles high, has low vacuum and the trac light comes on sometimes. We've got to figure out the electrical gremlins, because the engine runs great, which was clearly my original problem.

 

Well you did mention you swapped the cam sensors. Might as well try the old ones.

 

The ones that are on there are the ones that came off the original motor, which made this motor actually run. Don't know if we could've damaged them somehow.

I wonder if I could trigger a re-learn on the cam/crank codes and get the computer to learn about them. I have a butt splice on the crank sensor wire, but I doubt that would affect its output.

Friend said I might have to re-program the tranny, I don't think my old scanner would do that, I'm contemplating getting an Autel MaxiCOM MK808S-TS scanner, but haven't gotten an answer from them whether it can re-learn transmissions.

 

Called Toyota, they say they almost never replace the cam sensors or the crank sensors. Friend said it's likely the computer needs to be forced into a re-learn cycle, with the scanner I don't have

 

Dammit man.
Good luck brother, you have the patience of Job.

 

Regarding the tranny issues.
Based on your code list, there are 3 different ECU connectors. Assuming the connector on tranny side is connected, good and you did not damage the tranny cable, check ECU connectors. Your issue is electrical (open or shorted circuit)
If you check the wires from ECU to tranny connector and they are good, most likely ECU went kaput.
P0713
Ecu Connector E19 pin 20, 21

P0748
Ecu connector E11 pin 8,9

P0778
ECU Connector E12 pin 19,20

P2716
ECU Connector E11 pin 12,13

this is the description of the issue for and it is the same for all your tranny code.

 

Would a smoked ECU still mostly run everything fine? How would you verify an ECU issue? Will check the transmission electrical harness connections behind the glove box where they plug in.

Job didn't smoke a motor in his Tacoma by allowing a dealer to not change filters. There was the boils and losing everything, but no Tacomas

 

Ecu has individual circuits (runs) for each sensor, etc. You can damage that circuit and cause all those issues. There was a guy who had issues with cruise control and limp mode due to burnt ECM circuit for the thermostat valve control. He replace ecu and corrected the issue. Start with the wiring. If wiring is good, get used ECU ($100-200). I dont think you caused the damage to solenoids.
here is step to rule out the wire.

 

thats good to know, i was going to chime in and say i replaced 1 of 4 cam sensors on a 2012 subaru (@70k miles) that i had but the faulty sensor never caused any known condition limiting or impeding any drivability. Just a light showing the fault.

really hoping you can find the issues and get the truck straightened out. They do have links to download techstream on the site and with a cable ive had good luck changing settings, programming keys etc with it.

 

Would a badly seated transmission connector cause an ECU to fail?

I think if I got another ECU I'd still have to re-program it to my VIN right?

 

Bad connection, corrosion, etc. will cause the issues, especially on CAN networks.
If need to swap ecu, you need to reset immobilizer first to start the engine. Updating VIN is a secondary and you can do it later

 

would a butt splice connector on the crank position sensor cause it to fail?

Do you have a recommendation for a scanner to buy?

 

Anything that can cause the resistance and alter the voltage.
I use techstream. Look for the scanners that advertised for toyotas. BTW, I don't see any extra steps to replace CPS or Camshaft sensors.

Same approach to troubleshoot the wiring for CPS. Wire, sensor, ecm. In that order.