To “anti-seize” or not: aluminum block

So Ive seen much debate on this and thought I’d share a video i found. I have been using anti-seize on my plugs since day one on my spark plugs with no issues. This vid MAY/MAYNOT change how you approach it. I simply reduce my torque specs. Im just sharing:
https://youtu.be/fpixgNQHvVM?si=hbFDFNFTQUieTf0W

 

Always have, always will. Just remember, a little bit goes a long way.

 

This is my mode of operation. This is about like discussing barrel break in. I use anti seize, I don't break in barrels...

 

Once and done.

 

I don't think you should "torque" spark plugs. Too many variables, too delicate, fine threads, etc.

Don't they recommend a certain partial turn (1/4 or 1/2 turn) after the washer contacts? Then you're just turning it a predetermined amount to squish the crush washer / gasket.

 

Factory doesn't put anti-seize. I don't put anti-seize.

 

Torque on the 1gr-Fe is 15lbs, that's touch and feel for the crush washer to seat. Doesn't take much.

 

It smooths out the threads on the way in.

I use a dab if it was rough on the way out.

 

Anti sieze gunks up the hole requiring difficult cleaning.

plugs are made with a sacrificial coating on the threads to act as anti sieze.

the maintenance schedule and nature of plug type does not keep them in there long.

changing them hot lets the engine expand to make loosening them easier. They are not a high torque spec.

techs do not anti sieze plugs. FSM may not call for it either.
If it was necessary factories would coat them for efficiency. Which they do, with sacrificial coating.
Just like how certain bolts are made with micro encapsulated loctite at the factory because that is cheaper than dripping on a bottle.
They generally don’t come out until it’s time to be replaced.

if it makes you feel better to put butter on the threads, you do that.

 

Not all anti-sneezes (funny intended) are the same. Every good mechanic, back in the day, had a can of good old Fel-Pro C5-A in their box. C5-A is copper based. Don't use copper based anti-sieze on aluminum surfaces. Copper anti-sieze is meant to be used on steel and cast iron. The other common anti-sieze is nickel and/or silver based, this type can be used on aluminum. I don't use any anti-sieze on new shiny silver spark plugs.

 

I recently had 2 out of 8 that would not come out. Came to a hault. Warmed the engine up and they came out no problem. New ones went back in normally. This was on a 2uz-fe, which normally doesn't happen.

I think sticking to the scheduled replacement and torque specs is critical.

I know you have way more experience than I do, so just tossing my thoughts out there.

 

We use it in hopes of preventing seizure, but its crazy to think it actually lasts more than one start up.

I use it for resistance of torque, trying to get it to torque correctly instead of high resistance tripping my torque wrench too soon.

But again, if there's no issues removing, I dont use it reinstalling.

I used the heat trick on 5.4s when I worked on ford. We'd get it red hot, then pour in acetone/efi cleaner and let it boil into the threads.

 

I would not want to do a 5.4 Ford. Have seen and heard the horror stories!

 

I've been told the "new" way is to get the engine warm and use an impact. ( FORD )
I couldn't believe what I was being told, so I did some research.
Evidently, the success rate of getting the plugs out in 1 piece increases substantially.

I'm still not trying it.

 

I never broke one, I had the golden touch. I even removed a couple that were skipped by dealer techs.

I hate that engine, total crime against mechanics and truck owners. Yet its 4.6 sister is legendary. (I owned a 4.6 long box. Best truck I've ever owned)

 

Yeah, Ford went from blowing plugs out, to being stuck in.
Talk about a complete 180. One extreme to the other.