Let’s break down getting no heat

Im gonna say no lol. Heres an image vaguely showing the cable system

 

• when disconnected the lever moves but the cable seems stuck in one place
  
  moving the lever waiting to see if warmth comes
  

 

I dont know if a single temp reading at idle is sufficient to rule out the tstat. I would want a live reading watching the coolant temp rise from a cold start until it reaches a steady state and that it stays stable while driving at the proper temperature.

For the future, I know I run an UltraGauge in my truck, many others run a ScanGauge. These are obd2 readers that you would have mounted in the cab to have live readings of all your engine sensors at all times.
They are a little pricey ($80-$140), but something to consider if you were interested, I’ve had my ultragauge for some 8 years and it stills works great even after sitting on my dash in the Arizona sun the whole time(the screen is starting to burn a bit though). Allows you to instantly read any engine code that pops up as well, or use it to read a friends code if they have one pop up, which is really nice to have all the time. You could also grab a cheap Bluetooth reader from Amazon, and an app on your phone, as those should be able to provide live readings as well, I have no experience with them though.


Anyway, I would follow others advice in the meantime as they are posting good information and you don’t have access to a reader at the moment.

 

Cool report back and we'll go from there

 

no warmth

 

Hmm before throwing a water valve at it.....assuming everything else is working as advertised, there is also a heater fuse and relay you can check

 

so im getting the hypertough 5200 bluetooth reader with temps in app

coolant flush and fill

want to take off the ac controls and see if its not pulling the control cable

the fuse i just changed how do you test a relay?

the lights dont function on the controls if that gives any help only the ac button toggle

then the valve change

 

No lights? Wonder if there's a bad ground somewhere? Are you handy with a meter? Here's the insp procedures for the relay

 

yes just got my wiper blades functioning again thanks to metering out the issue

 

More info/wiring for you if you need it

 

now this is a bit gibberish to me but helpful once i understand the flow of it

 

would the relay stop me manually changing the valve when i removed the cable

i believe i also have decently low coolant so might be dry

 

If your coolant ran low and started to overheat, this will cause the thermostat to stick open permanently. With the tstat stuck open its actually pretty hard to overheat, even when low on coolant, so you may not have even noticed.

Is the truck idling at 750rpm?

And is the cluster temperature gage securely in the middle? When I say securely in the middle, I really mean perfectly in the middle.
When my Tstat was stuck open the temp gage was just ever so slightly below the middle, it was just so slightly under middle no one would notice if they hadn't owned the truck for years previous.

 

so the temperature does rise and sit in the middle

 

i dont have rpms on my dash

 

it appears the temperature control has two tension cables that it runs. one is the water valve what’s the other one

 

the other is the mode control i believe

 

replaced the thermostat
couldn’t flush it and broke the control yaay

 

On my 2002 I was having the same problem. The motor under the dash that opens the doors was moving but would bind up before it moved far enough to open the door that let's air blow over the heater core. I have never fixed it, just reach under the dash and push it to help move it all the way.