Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

This should work. This is recommended by automotive diagnostic gurus. FYI, there is no learning transmission feature. Just a reset of TCU learning values.
Here is a list of recommended scanners.
https://www.amazon.com/shop/pinehollowautodiagnostics/list/NHZL00NIDEPF

 

I ordered a used ECU on the Bay, comes with guarantee supposedly. Toyota wants ~$150 for each of the cam and crank sensors, of which there are 4 cam sensors and 1 crank sensor. Toyota says they rarely ever fail, so likely something else.

We checked the crank sensor and it measures what the book said it should, so the butt connector must be having little/no effect.

I'm working on getting an Autel scanner so we can program the VIN after setting the immobilizer up (thanks @Vlady ), should have the ECU Monday, which will give us time to check other parts of the wiring.

I also doubt any of the tranny solenoids failed, since the transmission was showing no signs of poor shifting before the motor ate itself, and we changed the fluid anyway.

Will post more of our troubleshooting steps. Again, I hope this convinces others what they are up against with these motors and that it's survivable...if we actually survive all this. Keep wrenching!

 

Thanks for the updates. I’m enjoying following along.

 

If I were you I would pull valve covers off and check the timing marks just in case. Did you say the previous owner was not able to make it run?

 

Previous owner said it would idle and then die, and Toyota told him he had a vacuum motor, but needed a non-vacuum motor for his TRD offroad. The motor did the same thing when we put it in, but then we swapped our original cam sensors and then it ran fine. It idles high, but doesn't exhibit any other motor-related things (besides low vacuum I think), drives down the road just fine, but it's in limp mode. We swapped the crank sensor, but it's in spec according to what the book said it should measure.

There doesn't seem to be any wire damage on any of the harnesses that's visible at least, or any connector damage.

 

Thats a red flag to me

What specific wire is the splice on? You really need a scope to properly diagnose sensor issue like CPS or cam. So you can see if a clean square waveform is getting back to the ECU or not.

Im not saying you guys are wrong above, the ECU could be bad.. Sounds like you already ordered one anyway. Just not very common for Toyota ECUs to die. Especially when it was OK before this all started

 

I don't know where the splice is, but it sounds like all the crank sensor does is output a square wave, I can't see why it would quit doing that, like from induced noise or some such, or at least that the induced noise would have to be sufficient amplitude to confuse either the ground or high state.

I think the real issue is the codes for high temp/solenoid on the transmission, the only thing I can think was that the loose tranny connector that originally caused the temp high alert maybe fried that section of the ECU/TCU? Or maybe having unexpected cam sensors (which did look different than the original ones) maybe have affected that part of the ECU?

I'm trying to get a scanner so I can know for sure, or at least I think I can know. Also, I can reset the ECU so it re-learns the sensors, and get the truck hopefully out of limp mode. Also, the ECU was $140 shipped, which is about the same price as one single sensor.

 

Which of the three CPS wires are spliced?

 

Your P0338 code is Toyota's p033515 which states that cps output voltage is higher than 4.7 for 4 sec.
The sensor probably functions, but it sets the code. I would try to change
At my dealer, CPS is $112 with a local pickup

 

We have two CPS sensors, one from each motor, we tried to swap back to the original motor's sensor and there was no change, I don't know what the odds they'd both fail? Toyota says they almost never fail, or are very seldom ordered. They're $133 at Toyota here, guess you get a better deal?

 

That leaves to a wire and ecu. If you ruled the wire out, the ecu is a next step.

 

The ECU is coming in a few days, do you think a high CPS output could fry an ECU, or just set another code? It's strange that the output is 5V if it's supposed to be 4, that kind of indicates it has to be a CPS I think. I don't think it's possible that the ECU is breaking the output of the CPS either.

 

The code does not tell which pin is having voltage issue. I bet it is NE pin.
it is hard to say what is the voltage on the waveform



The voltage on VC is 4.5 - 5.5 V

 

Sounds like 5V logic levels thoughout the ECU. Maybe the resistor between NE+ and VCC could be blown. I have an o-scope on my desk, weirdly enough. I think I'm just going to order one from Toyota since it's not too expensive as a troubleshooting step, and it would eliminate the CPS.

 

the other thing is that CPS, Cam shaft and tranny temps could be related to E9 connector on ECU. Either the pins are bad or ECU circuits got damaged on that side. Inspect the connector.
E=E9
,
CPS

Tranny temps


Cams


Did you mention issue with the fuel pump?

 

Doesn’t matter. As long as it’s properly done (no significant resistance added) it’s a non-issue.

 

It still seems more likely that something is biasing the output of the square wave higher, either the FET in the CPS (or transistor) or the ECU running it up to 5VDC, not sure which, but new CPS will be in tomorrow from Toyota, so I guess we'll put that in there, I kind of doubt it will make a difference.

 

That's a big assumption, assuming it was done right.

I usually like to find the issue before before throwing new parts at it

 

I like the idea of knowing why I'm replacing something, but at this point I just really miss driving my truck

 

Okay, got an Autel MP808BT on the way, supposedly it will program an ECU and redo the immobilizer. I don't have to do anything specific for the transmission, right?

I plan to put the new crank sensor in at the same time as the ECU so I don't take a chance of whichever is broken frying the other thing that isn't.