Help Needed to Build a Budget System Piece by Piece

I am currently running a 2010 JBL head unit, with a GROM Audio iPod and AUX input adapter, with the stock 2007 JBL speakers. I want to start upgrading my stereo system piece by piece and I want to start with speakers. I will eventually swap head units, sub/amp combo, add an amp for the mids and highs, and sound deadening all around. What is my best bet for upgrading all of my door speakers? Can I go with a component setup? Do I need adapters? Suggested vendors? Please keep in mind that the components of my system must build upon each other. For now the speakers will have to run off the measly stock amp. I know it's not ideal, but I'm paying my way through college and my wedding in July, and the budget is tight. All help and guidance is greatly appreciated.

2010 JBL Head Unit (Painted Black)


GROM iPod adapter


GROM AUX input

 

Have a budget in mind?

Willing to buy used?

Willing to put off the purchase for an indefinite amount of time while watching for a good deal, or are you looking to upgrade in the near future?

Are you planning on going active in the future, or staying with a passive crossover?

 

I don't have a total amount in mind, and I kind of want to see what range each component is going to be. I figure I will go with a single sub in place of the stock JBL sub/amp area and leave the drivers side storage intact. I'm always seeing decent deals on DD headunits ($350-$600), but I may be tempted to do something similar to the Navisurfer II or a 7" to 8.9" built in android tablet dock with a simple single din for basic stereo functions. These are obviously not typical of a budget build, but I think if I take my time and shop around I can pull it off. I am looking to upgrade my speaker sooner than later, but don't have the funds/approval to pull the trigger just yet. Not sure about the crossover setup, will I be taking two steps forward and one step back when I want to make the transition from passive to active? I appreciate the interest, I hope I have given you a better idea of where I am headed. Thanks in advance for your time.

 

Since you are not doing this all at once, a total budget is not really an issue - each piece can be determined as needed, and you always spend up with a bit more this way!

Head unit and sub (with sub amp) coming later - Active vs. passive is a long debate - if you have time to play, and are OK with learning and trying, then active is a great option, with tons of flexibility. You need to have a channel for each speaker (4 channel or more) and the ability to work with crossovers. Time alignment (delay left speakers so they reach the listener at the same time as the right speakers, helping creating a "center" image, delay sub, etc) is desired, but not necessary. To do this you have to find an active head unit or program for the car PC item you choose, or you have to buy an external processor. This would be the big expense, whit these starting around $450 bucks or so. Not really ideal for a budget system where you want a double din or screen. Much more effective for used single DIN decks, like a Pioneer PRS800 or 880, or various Alpine units.

All that to say, budget, with a desire for a double din, means active will either have to be done with the amps and no time alignment, or you will spend more money on another item.

A benefit to active is you *can* spend less on speakers, as you can buy raw drivers. Or you can spend a lot more...

There are solid speaker choices in every budget range, roughly $125, $200-250, and $300 plus. So throw out a number you are OK with, and let it go from there.

I would typically avoid most stuff available at Best Buy, like Alpine Type S and E, anything Kicker or RF, etc. - but I know several members here really like their stuff, so obviously it is a preference thing.

I would tell you to keep a couple things in mind. 1st, everyone obsesses over subs, but remember - they play the lowest 2 octaves, that human ears have the hardest time hearing - a lot of basic $100 setups will sound GREAT, and can be well integrated and put up against items costing much much more.

Your mids/tweets, on the other hand, play almost all of what is represented in music. Amps can be had pretty cheap, and all they do is amplify the signal presented. If they add EQ or change sounds, they may not be what you want.

Lastly, keep in mind that I am only one person, and you should get multiple opinions, and listen to a few things yourself. Be careful taking advise from anyone that has a dog in the fight (wants to sell you a product) or tells you that anything is best. No such thing.

Oh yeah, caraudiomag.com is starting to do some reviews and such again, and have older reviews on file too.

 

Thank you for such a detailed response. I think I am in the $200 range for speakers. I think at this point wanting to move forward with just speakers for now, I will stick with a passive setup. I'm seriously thinking about going with a used single din. I like the idea of audio/video/nav all in one package (thus wanting a double din), but my Garmin 765T does just fine for nav, and even if I don't do the auto pc or tablet mount, I always have my phone (Samsung Vibrant) for web connectivity and video. If I go with a single din I will definitely mod up a nice cradle and full integration with the HU. I appreciate your honesty about multiple sources and research. This is just one of the many outlets that I am using. I'm pretty big into computer building, mobile software/firmware developing, and a self proclaimed techy. I have always had a "system" in my vehicles, but that hasn't consisted of speaker swaps, head unit installs, and simple subs and amp set ups. I want to take my time and do it right. Looking to do partial/full sound deadening during speaker install and throughout entire process as panels and other interior components are removed. I have used sonicelectronix and crutchfield in the past and then there is always ebay and Amazon. I would want to go with a trusted source on used speakers, so I might look for open box or refurb deals. That's about as far into the project as I have gone. I'm working on a super white satoshi right now, and I think once I sell it, I will use the funds towards my speakers and sound deadening.

 

ItalynStylion has a great write up on his install and deadening project, give that a look over.

There is a lot available in the $200 range - but not a lot in the authorized area .

If you can find them Pioneer TS-c720PRS are very highly regarded, as well as Alpine Type X - but you will be buying on ebay or used.

I have only used ID OEM speakers, but their CTX and XS line should fall in the upper part of the around $200 range. Check out DIYMA.com for some reading, reviews, and classifieds.

 

good advice, but you're going wayyyy beyond where he's at on this... active crossovers??? not sure why they're even being mentioned in a budget build...

 

It may be above his head at the moment, but people never learn if not introduced to new/better option, and challenged.

Also, because, if you are careful with your shopping and have some good help and a basic understanding, one can easily build a better sounding system themselves for much cheaper than a "basic" install at your local shop. And end up with MUCH MUCH higher quality drivers. There are a few exceptions, but its not even comparable.

A simple example:

A Alpine 9887 or Pioneer 880PRS head unit - $200
Mids - Peerless Nomex mids - $100
Tweets - Seas Neo (w/mounting cups if needed) $70

And I would bet that with good install, proper tuning(time) and a bit of work and this would sound better than what any shop could install for at least twice the money, probably 3-4x the money.

Or splurge and get some of these:

Peerless CA18 and match them up with the same Seas tweets, or LPG 25's, or various other tweets, and still stay under $250 on drivers and blow 95% of installs away.

Heck, one can even get started using the drivers from a pre-packaged set and still get SIGNIFICANTLY better results.

 

all agreed. but that really has nothing to do with discussing active...

 

You will need to figure out which way on speakers first, cause that will depend on which spacers you will need, more for the front than the rear. And if doing speakers, you should plan on sound deadening the doors while you are in there, check the for sale section someone had some left over Raamaudio material for a good price. Just search criagslist for speakers if you don't mind used, I found my JL amp (XD400 for $200) and older unused Kappa component set (6.1 perfects $140) already had an old set of Kappa's for the rear. And headunit from Amazon with the 30% coupon.

 

You make no sense. First you say you are not sure why active is mentioned in a budget thread. I explain to you why. Because they are not expensive to do.

Then you agree, but say it has nothing to do with active.

Care to type something meaningful or in the least be helpful, or hell, even join the discussion with an opposing point of view? Or just the one liners that are pointless, unless you are working on a post count?

 

Mattg43,

I appreciate all the insight thus far. It may be a budget build, but I like to be well informed and would rather start to formulate the end result before I put money into something that doesn't have the potential to be the best. I know that I can't buy the "best" on a budget, but I can try to build the "best" that I can. I don't want to take two steps forward just to turn around and have to take one step back. I truly want the ability to build upon my system, and I know that decisions and compromises will have to be made. Thanks again for all the help. Enough said...

 

I do plan on deadening the doors while I am at it. If not fully at least a partial kit and go back and fill in the rest at a later date. I have been shopping around on CL and haven't seen anything yet, and hope to find a decent deal on a component system. I was curious about direct replacements for the stock JBL speaker size. Why not throw some better quality 6x9 in the stock holes? I have settled that I will go with a single din when I upgrade decks and I'm sure I will end up getting various install material (dash kit, harness, etc.) from here. Thanks.

 

Just want to point out, you did a badass job painting the JBL head unit. Looks killer.

 

Thanks! My only regret is that I didn't mask all the text boxes. I still have plans to use my fiancées cricut craft cutting machine to make some vinyl stickers. Check out my build, I did the center console as well.

 

You're welcome. Active is a bit above most users heads, and the desire has to be there - you have to want to play with things. It is certainly not the easiest method, but it is not so difficult that anyone serious about the hobby will have any problems getting going. It also allows a few options you would not otherwise have, and gives you much more control

And the black center console looks great, better than I thought just reading about it.

 

Thanks! I was wondering if you could ask one of my previous questions; are round speakers preferred over oval? Curious why so many use adapters to mount round speakers in the place of the oval JBL (what I am assuming are) 6"x9"s. Obviously I would do a direct replacement of the highs in the upper door panels, but what about 2-way, 3-way, etc. for the other four speakers? Recontamination on size, resistance, adapters, etc.? Thanks again for the help.

 

Generally, cone rigidity is the reason. round drivers typically keep the cone from flexing much better than other shapes, which helps eliminate distortion, or odd frequency response. There are some very good 6x9 speakers available, but they are not the cheap multi-way drivers. A great example would be the ID XS69 set, though there are probably others.

The reason people like them is the improved cone area, which will help with bass, as bass response is simply an air piston - more cone = more air for given excursion, which = more bass.

I (along with most of the SQ guys I know) am personally not a fan of rear speakers, and have not ran them in my last 4 or 5 installs. Never missed em, and never had any passengers complain - but generally if I have more than one other person in the vehicle then things are turned down quite a bit for conversation, and not to be rude.

A lot of peeps like em, but I have found, after listening to a good install without them, that they truly distract. They never bothered my wife, until she heard one of my full "real" install, and I pointed out there were no rear drivers. She basically said she could not tell, and asked if my sub was working (blended perfectly!!!). I threw in a bass-ey song, and she was pretty impressed.

There is A LOT more reading about "proper implementation" of rear drivers (essentially taking the right channel, subtracting all information played by the left channel, and playing only that very small amount of information) known as L-R, or R-L. This is all moot if you are running a 4.1, or 5.1 system.

Its kind of like Pandora's box.

Shameless plug

A lot is mentioned about DIYMA, but it is a different site than 4 years ago. A good spot, for some "REAL" technical info, is www.mobilesoundscience.com . A ton of really technical, good guys hang out there, and please, please feel free to ask questions. It is a site that a bunch of us from DIYMA and another site put together for public use, as there are some moderation and information deletion problems on DIYMA. Some of the "old school" guys still visit DIYMA, but most of em hit up MSS. And they are GREAT at helping with budget systems, high quality, inexpensive, DIY drivers. Many are engineers or professional sound guys by trade, or have LOTS of time/experience in the hobby.

End of shameless plug

By the way, sorry about the book length replies...

 

No apologies needed. Your posts have helped me out quite a bit; leading me to further research and shopping around. I only asked about the oval drivers because I found a brand new discontinued set of Infinity Kappa 692.5i on CL for $70, I have the guy holding at $40 right now. Decent reviews, not some ridiculous 5-way, and no extra plastic or fake chrome; just a plain jane speaker from a company I have used before.

In regards to the rear speakers; I would love to delve deeper into tuning and tweaking my system, but I think I will be just as happy with/without rear speakers, and most importantly it just tells me to wait for a bargain on rears rather than actively searching to spend a big chunk of money.

Something I haven't brought up yet; I plan to build my sub enclosure. I used Blaupunkts design software throughout high school, the military, and college to design and build sub enclosures for me and my friends. I'm also have experience with fiberglass and bondo, so depending upon my sub, I feel confident that I can fabricate my own box. When looking around at subs, should I be looking strictly at shallow mount for 10's and 12's and standard depth for 8's? Again, I only want a single sub, and I would prefer a 10 or 12, but would not turn down a higher quality 8 for a good price.

Thanks again for the help. It's been a very enlightening experience thus far.