Hood support strut / upgrade from support rod

PopRivets aren’t holding the frame together …….QUITE a bit of difference.

 

That was a neglect issue. The hinges would get stiff due to lack of lubrication. But yes, many square bodies with jacked up hoods

 

Op here, my main concern about the rivets wasn’t the rivets, but drilling holes in the fender and hood. Causing an opportunity for rust. That’s all, plain and simple

 

I guess you didnt read my post. Ski

 

Another recommendation for Spiker. Drilling is not difficult. Just take the time to measure 3x and drill once. I think I paid about $100 for my kit and I love not having to use the support rod.

 

Uhhh, paint. Plain and simple.

 

Just ordered, made in USA and a 5-year warranty is what sold me. Eight inches of extra lift and including a no brainer drill bit is nice. Thanks for the recommendations.

 

If you have ditch lights, make sure the 8" extra height won't push them into the windshield. Saw someone crack their windshield that way.

 

Not yet, I'd like to have tho hood struts installed to help me evaluate the ditch light sizing and position.

 

I have the standard Redline Elite hood struts and Rago low-profile ditch brackets with Vision X 3.7 Canons... and they're "close". I'm pretty sure the extra 8" loft will eliminate all ditch lights.

 

Keep in mind that you don't have to install the lift support with the full added height. Mine only opens about 3 inches more than it did with the support rod. Where you install the brackets will determine how far the hood will open.

 

^^^^^ This, you dont have to have it open to the moon but, having a bit extra lift, more than the prop rod, is pretty ok, in my book. Ski

 

on some vehicles they are...

https://www.smythkitcars.com/

 

Yes you "can"... but hear me out...

These struts have been designed to apply a specific force at a specific location on the hood. Due to leverage, the designed force changes as you move the hood and fender connection points.

For example, if you leave the fender locations as designed, but move the hood connection closer to the cab, to create additional lift, there's a chance that the struts won't apply enough force to opeon the hood or hold the hood open. Likewise, if you reduce the designed opening height by moving the hood mount towards the headlights, the struts may have too much force and require too much effort to close.

Now, in actuality, I believe you're safe, because the struts have a decent margin of error... just something to keep in mind.

@SpikerEng @RedlineTuning

 

I have Spikers om my Tacoma. I have used RED Lines as well on my Mustang. I can recommend both but can tell you I prefer the Spikers as they feel better built, constructed the same but not as heavy duty looking.

 

-it already has holes
-holes are require for a lot of things
-they don't make a difference
-if it did come with struts, this is probably how they'd do it
-there are other things on the truck, stock, that use rivets

the point of a hood is to open wide for access
why Mercedes has been using vertical hinges for a long time

key deciding factor at the time of getting Spiker over Redline, or vice versa
whichever one has the feature the other does not

one was adjustable, able to set higher, or really anywhere you want
and the other was not. AFAIK

Mine is set high. Still clears ditch lights/brackets. More room to work.

 

My Spikers are 3 years old & no issues with them.

 

Installed and removed Spiker single strut drilled option I had on my truck for a while. Really, really loved the functionality but the load from the strut caused a huge gap/uneven hood which bothered me to no end.

 

A little bit of a difference in riveting. But since you are just saying …

 

Little bit but the concept is the same.