Long Travel BS Thread

Had to make a small change for some added clearance. But this is the final prototype, and my lord. Is it sexy. Stay tuned, this thing is going to production after proofing.

 

That's surprising, not saying I don't believe you but I would have to see / experience that first hand to believe it. I wouldn't think that anything could thoroughly penetrate into such a small gap like that ? My links were powder coat zinc primer'd & vein top coated but clearly nothing filled or sealed the overlay plate gap.

 

It’s acid that converts rust. I’ll soak parts like we are discussing overnight. I’ve never ever had anything come back for this issue.

 

How do you go about welding that tie-in plate to the body sheet metal? That plate looks pretty thick and joining that up with the thin ass sheet metal body sounds like a pita.

 

Hey guys - as a non-long travel guy, love reading this thread. It's helped me gain a ton of knowledge on the subject of long travel, but I'm still a total noob. In the vein of being a noob, I've got what seems to be a dumb question.

I've got JBA's HD High Caster UCAs on my truck and I'm wondering if I can simply just mount up some long travel LCAs w/ a 8" x 2.5" shock and call it good? I would be looking at something like 2" to 2.5" LT setup as my truck is my daily (I work remotely so don't actually drive it daily, but it's my main form of transportation) & I am doing wheeling in CO and Utah mostly (no desert running). Additionally, I'd love any input on which LCAs would be best suited / most durable for CO winters & daily driving. I'm worried about an exposed uniball wearing out quickly being exposed to salt & debris.

I really like JD Fabs 2.25" LT LCA design w/ the ability to have sealed ball joints. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Best thing to do is just call and talk to Harry.

 

Those tie ins are only 18g. It’s done with silicon bronze.

 

Hate to bring back the whole paint/coating subject but how much are y'all paying to color match your fiberglass fenders/bedsides?

 

Mostly wondering because I was quoted $3600

 

I did 1/8” tie ins mig welded. Been 4 years and no cracking. My garage isn’t fancy enough to use thinner material with dimple dies and tig welding.

 

Your gonna find price ranges all over the place, starting at about $1500 and going up to $5000 on the high end. It really comes down to the quality that you are looking for and how much work the painter is willing to put into making it look like an OEM fender. Fiberglass is by no means perfect and the majority of making the job look quality is the prep, on our in house builds we charge $3300 for front and rear fenders, and $3600 if you include a front valance. At that price you are getting a OEM quality finish and colormatch, all fiberglass is removed for painting and we also offer LineX services for inside fiberglass and top of bed rail

 

you have to run the long travel uca with the lca. both the lca and uca are longer. if you run the stock length uca, you could join the camber gang though

 

Thanks for the insight! Figured the geometry would be off, but wanted to make sure.

Although… camber gang looks pretty sick. Always wanted fitment like that on the taco. Heard it’s great for high speed whoops

 

My 2nd Gen has the 4 banger which has the same motor mount setup as it’s predecessor 2/3rz’s and basically my 5vz t4r and 1st Gen. It was the motor side mount that would fail a lot (and the frame perch but not quite as fast) that Bonzen started making these for. It’s interesting that the 1GR motor mounts seem to not be the fuse, but the frame side perches instead - which I knew about the pre-07 but am not well informed about the rest of the 2nd Gen v6 trucks in that case.

 

Saw this guy on a used car truck that showed up at work today…

 

Toyota killed the Tacoma with those body lines

 

Man if that rear door is an indicator of less rear seat leg room like the similarly shaped 3rd Gen Tundra door, I’d be interested to see the measurements from a 4th Gen compared to a 2nd /3rd Gen. And while the plastics are obviously going to make a difference, I was expecting a little better looking production run based on these pics that came out last year.

 

I saw it at KOH and didn't pay much attention to the fugly body lines, so I guess in person they aren't that fugly?? I am curios about back seat leg room too.

 

It's amusing how this happens with every new generation of anything. 1st gen owners said it about 2nd gens, 1st and 2nd gen owners said it about 3rd gens, etc.

 

Rear bumper manufacturers are going to have a challenge, since the rear hitch is welded to the frame now.



Rear fox hydro bumps on the pro



Rear Shocks hang low like the tundra, but have tonnes of room above like the tundra. Easy to get a lot more travel in the rear at least.


New cab mount design is similar to the tundra as well. It looks like a 33 will easily fit without a CMC. For a 35, I'm not sure but will be close.


Finally routed the exhaust in a way that actually makes some sense. Easier with a 4 cylinder though