El Taco Diablo En Fuego

Well, here we go on another build. The premise of this thread is like some of the other threads I've had. Use it for a space to gather information and a place to discuss ideas.

Kind of like this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-taco-diablo-4x4-swap-and-b-s.562405/page-11

It was up for nearly a year before I actually completed the swap. Things seemed like a pipe dream at times, but once it goes in to a build thread... well... that means it has to be built.

Do I have the truck? Nope.
Do I have some ideas? For sure!

This one is going to take it up a couple notches.

 

Parameters/Goals: (Maybe subject to change as I translate and decipher the technical language)

Ultra4 - Class 4500 > King of the Hammers
https://kingofthehammers.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/2021-Ultra4-Rulebook-V5.1_0.pdf (Class specifics begin on page 41)

SCORE - Class 7F > San Felipe 250 or Baja 500
https://score-raceinfo.com/score-rulebook/truck-classes/class-7f/

UNTLD - Class 7 > Mint 400
https://unlimitedoffroadracing.com/classes/class-7/

BITD - Class 7100 > Vegas to Reno
https://bitd.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/CT-Class-7100.pdf

Yep... Maybe it's a pain in the ass. And yes, this will limit options. But, this is the list that is the 5 pound sack I'm going to try and fit the 10 pounds of crap in.

 

Printed out the Rule Books and Class Regulations for each of the 4 organizations.

Now I'm combing through each of them to find out the strictest regs, so the truck could theoretically pass tech on all of them.... that's a pain in the ass lol



SAFETY EQUIPMENT
HELMETS&HEAD AND NECKRESTRAINTS
- HELMET = Snell SA2015 or SA2020 + FIA 8859-2015 or FIA 8860- 2010 + SFI 31.1 stickers
Full name, blood type, allergies, med info on back of helmet.
UNLTD requires NO STICKERS on left side of helmet
Hammers needs at least Snell SA2015 OR SA2020
Score needs Snell SA2015 or SA2020 + FIA 8859-2015 or FIA 8860- 2010 + SFI 31.1 stickers
UNLTD needs Snell and FIA
BITD needs Snell SA2015 or SA2020
- HAN DEVICE = SFI 38.1
PROTECTIVECLOTHING
- SUIT = one piece SFI 3.2A/5
Full name, blood type, allergies, med info on upper right chest.
- UNDERWEAR = SFI 3.3 including socks
- GLOVES = SFI 3.3
- BACLAVA/HELMET SKIRT = SFI 3.3
- SHOES = SFI 3.3 (except Hammers and Score = "Fire Resistant" / Leather)
**Danner Wildland Tactical is:
NFPA 1977: 2022 edition
ASTM F2892-EH
EYE PROTECTION and DENTURES
- Shatter proof visor / eye protect
FIRST AID KIT
Weatherproof container with a minimum of the following (satisfies all 4 orgs)
2 - 4" Bandage Compress
2 - 2" Bandage Compress
1 - Triangular Bandage
8 - 2"x"3 Adhesive Pads
16 - 1"x3.375" Adhesive Bandages
10 - Treated Prep Pads
1 - Eye Dress Packet
10 - Ammonia Inhalant
1 - Ace Bandage
1 - CPR Face Mask
EMERGENCY SIGNALING DEVICES
2 - Battery operated red-light flashing beacons
2 - Red Reflective devices 12" by 12" (Break down triangles)
Score requires 2 fifteen minute phosphorus flares
All other bodies = Flares are prohibited
HORNS
Loud horn + PA/Siren
REFLECTORS
2 - 2"x4" Red reflective tape + DOT tial lights will fulfill all organization requirements
FIRE SUPPRESSION EQUIPMENT
1 - 2.5 pound Interior
1 - 5 pound Exterior
SURVIVAL SUPPLIES
Minimum 1 quart of water per occupant + suggested survival supplies in weatherproof container marked.
SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
SHOCK ABSORBERS and BUMP STOPS
Shocks - 2 per corner, no more than 2.65, must be connected to axle (no trailing - due to Ultra4 4500 regulations) 14" stroke max
Bump stops - Hydraulic bumps ok
Limit straps - Need Score wire seal
SECONDARYSUSPENSION
WHEELS and TIRES
- Tires = 37" DOT (due to Ultra4)
- Must have race number stamped on wheel 1/4 numbers within 2 inches of valve stem.
FASTENERS
Grade 8 or better, secured with lock nut, lock washer, cotter pin, or safety wire. One full thread through the nut.
STEERING AND BRAKE COMPONENTS
STEERING
- Mechanical linkage required
- Steering componants must be free of defects
- Cotter pins required by BITD
BRAKES
- Must be able to lock up all four with brake pedal
- Functional E brake
- No cutting/turning brakes per BITD
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
IGNITION
BATTERY
LIGHTS
STARTER
FUEL SYSTEM
FUEL
- Commercialy available
FUELTANKS
FUEL FILLERS LINES, VENTS, and CAP
ENGINE TRANSMISSION AND DRIVELINES
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT
ENGINE REPLACEMENT
TRANSMISSION
DIFFERENTIAL
THROTTLES
EXHAUST
DRIVE SHAFTS
FLYWHEEL SHIELDS
FLUID COOLERS
AUXILIARY EQUIPMENT
VEHICLE SAFETY EQUIPMENT
ROLL CAGES
SAFETY HARNESS
SAFETY NETS
SEATING
GENERAL VEHICLE COMPONENTS
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT
DOORS AND LATCHES
FIREWALLS
BALLAST
WEIGHT
FLOORBOARDS
BUMPERS AND HAZARDOUS PROTRUSIONS
MIRRORS
SKID PLATES
STORAGE
FENDERS

 

TOOLS

Roll bar fabrication (I guess I'll start figuring this shit out one way or another)

Ordered these today



Picking this one up tomorrow.



Ordered



Picked this one up the other day. Was on FB market. Brand new, for 200 bucks. Will leave this one as a drill press. Should be a better option than the bench drill press I've been using.



Picked this one up on sale today. Believe it or not I haven't really been running any pneumatic tools. Never really had a compressor to speak of.




Looking for a used JD Squared Model 32 bender. We'll see if one comes up.

 

PARTS

 

The search (in earnest) begins. This could take a bit.

I know everyone bitches about the price of used trucks. But some of the prices you see are just plain stupid. Like 11.5 for the 2nd one (below). I mean, what on earth makes someone think 11.5 for that p.o.s.? > We'll let this one sit for a bit and see if the price drops > LMFAO at that price! > This one has been listed a couple weeks. But it's not 95.5, 96, 97 > Another one that isn't old enough


I'm looking for 95.5, 96, or 97 because the regular cab came from the factory with a 5VZFE. (6 cyl)
Most of the classes listed above (as my targets) don't care, but I don't want to chance having a problem with a motor that didn't come in the make, model, and year. I think I'd be ok with a 5VZFE in any year 1st Gen Tacoma Regular Cab because:
Make = Toyota
Model = Tacoma
I don't think the regulations consider cab size... But again, I'm not sure.

 

You rubbing a stand-alone for the engine? If so buy a 4cyl and put a 5vz in it for a good deal. If not, it might be worth finding a 5vz model.

The only model the 5vz didn’t come in before 98 was the 5 lug reg cab. 5 lug xtra cab had that motor as an option.

 

If I'm going to try and satisfy all of the above Classification/Regulations I can't run a stand alone.

BITD - Class 7100 - Ignition:



On an another subject that is problematic with the same Class




Which is f'n stupid seeing as the Class can be 2wd or 4wd.

My plan is to explore 8 or 9 inch front diff. And just remove the diff and run 2wd if I run Vegas to Reno.



Back to the motor/truck combo. I'm just looking for a regular cab from a year that offered regular cab and 5VZFE combo. I don't care what motor and trans it has with it. I already have a 5VZFE and harness in the garage that will need to be rebuilt and pumped up. And it's not like I haven't done a trans swap before.

Wouldn't it be funny for me to swap the trans? It would be going in the opposite direction than most do.

Manual TO Auto

 

By the way... Best in the Desert (BITD) F'ing sucks with their dumb regs. I guess a lot of people feel the same way. They've pretty much killed their 7100 Class.

 

This one is promising. I'll let it sit for a whole before reaching out. 7800 is more than I want to spend... and, honestly, more than it's worth.

 

Interesting - you racing with a manual or auto?

 

I'd like to run Manual Valve Auto

RaDesign has something that may work. I've seen other set ups for the A340F

 

Another one

 

Easy 6500 with cash in hand. Will make things easier for ultra 4. Btw, count me as part of your chase crew. Salud

 

Are you racing to actually compete or just for fun?

Class 7 stuff and U4 4500 cars are wildly different. Pick a lane if you want to be competitive because you won’t be in both classes with one vehicle. Racing to say you are there, then by all means have at it.

Also if you’re concerned with the buy in price of your donor truck, building a race truck and plus actually running a race truck will make $7800 a rounding error in the budget on an even semi-competitive build/race program.

 

Uh huh


LOL

 

I am knee deep in my 1993 xcab project which came about from some supposed 'friends' at Fire Guys Racing who made me an offer I couldn't refuse on a pile of Total Chaos LT parts That suspension is coming up next, I just barely got it running after the 1UZ swap.

I have watched them pour a medium size fortune into this truck through the decades, through so many changes. It makes them happy so its money well spent. They did well this year at Hammers till the steering broke.



Like others have said above, once you start throwing money at racing the initial purchase price becomes trivial. But from my cheap ass perspective $7-$8k is a LOT of money for what will basically be a chassis you remove everything from.

If the truck does not need to be registered for the road . . .

Salvage? This one is in Nevada.



https://www.copart.com/lot/37726364/salvage-1995-toyota-tacoma-nv-reno

Also, how tall are you? Once you put a race seat and cage in the regular cab it gets very tight. I am only 5'10" its a struggle to fit in the race truck even on the navigator/winch/tiremonkey side.

Watching and excited for you Diablo!

.

 

Right on man. Thanks for the info.

For sure, I'm not under any delusions building a race truck isn't going to be expensive. Hell, I've spent nearly 20 grand on "El Taco Diablo" #1 over the past 2 years.



Long Travel, I custom built the rear axle, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I have a really good idea what this will cost. And it's by no means something I expect to get done this year, next year, or probably the year after that. But it'll be a project... my project. El Taco Diablo #1 has basically been a proof of concept to myself, that I can do it (not saying I have done it... but I have confidence I can do it).

Building a race truck... sure 6 or 7 K is a drop in the bucket. But... let's be honest, a race truck doesn't get built without some sort of sponsorship. No one is going to sponsor someone without a project at least started. So throwing good money after bad on the truck, (to get started) just because 6 or 7 K is "a drop in the bucket" isn't the smart way to start the project (that's what I'm thinking anyway).

I'm still in the planning stages of this. I also know there are a lot of tools I still need to make this right. Example: I'm not going to be able to just borrow a bender to build an entire engine, cab, bed cage. And notching an entire cage assembly with a 4.5 inch angle grinder will get nowhere fast I'm in the process of procuring tools that will make the start of this possible right now.

I don't need a truck to get this started, so if/when the right one comes along I'll snatch it up. Good find on that salvage one in NV. I'll have to check in to that one. Even if it's salvage doesn't mean it can't be registered.

Again, thanks for the input. This response went long and it wasn't intended to come off as defensive or lecture... just kind of, putting it out there where my head is at right now.

 

With all the parts you will need to replace, I'd advocate for getting a low body. For my race cab I modified the tunnel to shift seats further towards the centerline of the truck. The Main hoop is outside the cab, and I got my FSH touching the roof rail and A-pillar, I'm 5' 10" and the side to side clearance was the major concern for me... before shifting the seat position there was barely an inch between helmet and cage foam.