Anyone have a tanked air compressor on their rig?

100% duty cycle is cool as shit, dont misunderstand. I have some hand tools, and battery operated tools that I bought specifically for/to keep in the truck. But I also have a collection of air tools that I would like to be able to operate from my truck. Also, Im not gonna eschew the truth here, Im 100% going to install an air horn as well. Im not an asshole that wants to blast people all the time but I use to drive big trucks and an airhorn absolutely has more potential than a city horn in many instances.

I'm thinking of ultimately placing the tank somewhere on a headache rack. But thats a concern for later.

Could/should I put in an inverter and just unmount a cheap reliable ac air tank unit? Obviously there would be other issues like possibly adding a battery and inverter, wiring etc.

Am I over thinking it? Should/can I add an onboard dc compressor and add a tank with governor to it? ARB is obviously awesome but damned expensive. The vlair seems good but tank sizes wouldnt be great. If I added a different size tank would it be good or an annoyance?

Ive looked and searched, read through threads and watched videos. But it doesnt seem like I can find a good definitive video or thread to really give me an idea of what I need or should be considering.

Id greatly appreciate any input, even if its telling me I dont know how to use google (as long as you provide a link)

Thanks

 

look underneath the cab. tons of space on either side of the drive shaft there.

there's really nothing wrong with running a normal 12v compressor like the viar or similar into a holding tank with a pressure cutoff switch--look into air ride setups, they more commonly use that configuration with the same on-demand air pumps all the 'overlanders' here install to air up their tires. it really just comes down to finding a suitably sized tank, and the install location.

 

Thank you.

Im trying to research all this before I dive in obviously. Also doing the math. If I went the 12v route is there a compresser able to efficiently charge the air tank when Im using the air supply? I mean, would most pumps struggle to reach the higher psi to feel the tank?

 

Also; looked underneath the cab and agree there is some great potential for a properly fitted tank.

 

I honestly don't know about the charge rate.

Plenty of airbag setups use that setup, and while airbags don't quite use the same volume as air tools or air horns, they still take a good bit of air. Consider reaching out to a company like airbagit.com. I have a conceptual understanding, where they'll have a better hands-on understanding of what's needed to meet your goals

 

I've had a 100% DC 12v compressor with tank setup for around 12 years or so. Air bags with in-cab fill/dump switch, air horns, air chucks front and rear, even a dual-needle gauge in the cab to monitor system air and bag air.

The compressor I mounted in the engine bay on the PS wheelwell, which required me to reroute my engine air intake. It's a Puma brand, and I dismounted it from the tank it came with.

The tank I mounted directly above the muffler (with a heat shield made of scrap sheetmetal), which required me to change the stock muffler for a FlowMaster (any classic flat-style muffler will do). The tank I pulled from an old Freightshaker, I think the size might be 15 gallons. I kept the manual drain valve, and routed the pull cable to the PS wheelwell.

All the plumbing is standard DOT air brake line- 1/2 in for main runs, 1/4 for branches. Most fittings are brass DOT fittings.

 

Wow 15 gallon tank. Thats awesome. Glad to hear that running a 12v works. Will surely be much easier/cheaper than going the other route. Thanks.

 

I imagine the ARB Twin would pump out a lot of volume, more than the Puma I have. And anything would be lighter. But for 1/8 the cost of the ARB, I'm plenty happy with the Puma. And it's never failed or given me any problems ever.

If you go that route, and you want to put it on a switch in the cab, don't rely on any old relay. I literally burned up two heavy-duty relays and three starter solenoids before finding a latching relay the competition audio guys use. Haven't had a problem since.