Solution to Alignment issue needed

Need help with an alignment issue, after replacing front end suspension. BEFORE replacing any parts, my left (driver's ) side lower control arm (LCA) the Camber was at ".5⁰". After installing the Moog LCA the Camber is currently at 1.9⁰+. The Upper and LCA and the Wheel Hub Bearing Assemblies were all replaced at the same time. Spec tolerance for Camber is between '-.2⁰/1.3⁰+'. The lobes of both the forward and rear Cam bolts on the driver's left side, are turned inward to the maximum they can go, and cannot push out the bottom of the driver's wheel any further. The wheel is .6⁰+ outside of tolerance. All other alignment settings on both sides are within tolerances. The alignment shop is telling me there is nothing more they can do. The parts came from RockAuto. I called and spoke with a tech from Moog. He gave me oem spec for the length from the center of the ball joint to the center of the hole of the cam bolt, as LCA being 14.4" (14-7/16") and UCA is 7.9" (7-7/8"). I tried and cannot get an accurate measurement on either the old or new parts. I'm at a loss of ideas, as what to do, or if anything needs to be done? I am wondering if either the UCA is too long or the LCA replacement is too short. Any ideas? Is .6⁰+ a concern for excessive tire wear? Toe all around is at 0⁰ which is the low end of tolerance range. The truck is not pulling, but is tracking straight. Will the bushings settle in and the Camber correct itself with time?








Enter


7:11 AM

 

Welcome to Tacoma World. Some questions to help give you the best answer:

• Is your truck stock height or lifted? Stock UCAs or aftermarket?
• When you installed the upper arms, lower arms, and shocks (if removed at all), did you tighten them down while lifted in the air or on the ground? Needs to be done on the ground for final torque so the bushings don't bind as that can sometimes cause problems with alignment.
• Do you have a printout of the alignment sheet?

If you have 1.9° camber on each side that is fine. Yes it's out of spec, but your alignment tech might be smart and knows a touch more camber on our trucks isn't a bad thing. however if one side is at 1.9 and the other is 1.3 or something then yeah you probably want to try and get them a little closer.

 

I used MOOG's CK Series for upper and lower on both left and right sides. That series comes with limited lifetime warranty and only ones I could find with Zerk grease fittings. I had tightened both the upper and lower with no load, but the alignment place then loosened the cam bolts and tightened them to torque as close to tolerance as feasible. I also had tightened the Uppers with no load position. Since they are not adjustable, I do not have reason to believe the alignment mechanic loosened and torqued them with a load. Is that something I should loosen and tighten with a load? I do have the printout sheet. The FINAL value for the right side is .8 positive (Tolerance spec is between -0.2 to 1.3 positive for both sides), and the left side was shown to me as being at 1.9 positive. Will the Camber be forgiving and change with driving mileage? I purchased the Pepboys lifetime alignment and can go back there as often as I choose to have it checked and adjusted. Before you ask, the caster FINAL for the left side is at 1.6 and right side is at 1.3. Toe on both sides is at 0.0 and the spec min/max for toe is 0.0 to .10. The rear of my stock truck is not adjustable. Rear Left Camber is at 0.0 and right side is at -0.2. Rear left Toe is at 0.55 and Rear right side is at -0.40. I do not have other information but for the section labeled as "Secondary Angles". What other info do you need, to help guide me?

 

Did the moog ucas and lcas come with factory style bushings? if so then they needed to be torqued under load.

 

Yes. They did come with bushings. I saw the alignment mechanic torque lower control arms under load. I am confident he did not touch the uppers. What do you think of me loosening the Upper bolts while under load and then torque them with load...do you believe that will help create more negative Camber? As I ask this, I am wondering if doing the torque under load - but only the Upper Driver's side is acceptable? I know the Camber for the Passenger's right side upper is already in spec tolerance at 0.8. Will making an adjustment on only driver's side affect the other side?

 

Pw

Personally I’d loosen both sides and torque properly at ride height. Then have the alignment completely redone. If all the parts are new and there is nothing bent there should be no reason the alignment can’t be adjusted correctly.

 

who aligned it

Does it have lift if so what suspension and how much lift

 

No lift. OEM compatible suspension parts were used. Not certain this matters and which I found weird, but I measured all 4 wheel heights, from under the fender trim to the center of each wheel. The driver's side front and rear measured 22" each and the passenger side front and rear measured about 23" and no less than 22.5" height...but that was after lossening the UCA bolt - then taking a short drive...and then tightened the UCA bolt so it was under load. Plan to do the driver's side uca arm under load, tomorrow morning. Will report back if the rider height changes. Unfortunately, I did noty measure the front driver's height before lossening the uca arm bolt.