Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Go ahead and reset value. This is normal stuff.
I told you before, you need to look at intake cam solenoids.

 

And pull Freeze frame and recheck connectors on high-pressure pumps and high pressure sensor

 

Troubleshoot the fuel pressure sensor code 1st. That should take care all codes, except intake cams. Look for fuel related events (high pressure) in Freeze Frame. BTW, the connector is E9 on ECU side for the cams and fuel pressure . Also look what the junction connector between MAF and Pressure sensor

 

did throttle relearn and then got only these two codes left.

Toyota said the cam sensors rarely fail. I wonder if there a cam position sensor relearn.

If the VVT function didn't work, I guess it would stay retarded and only idle because it wouldn't advance. I'll try to find out about the timing solenoids. It seems impossible for the timing chain to be off by one, the truck ran quite smoothly when it was in limp mode.

 

look at this active test in the scanner's Active tests menu. Clear codes before


If still getting codes after this test, look at solenoids

 

Is engine starting and idling now? Could you check the freeze frame on the new instances of codes - Intake VVT target angle should be 30 at idle. I see you had 23.1.

 

still doesn't idle right. Thinking about swapping the ECU since I bought a spare, I mean what the heck, already bought one.

 

What if you move solenoids from your old one to this? If you going to do this , check the plunger.


But the concerning part is that both banks got stuck. Meaning it is caused by a common component. it is either ECU or the engine valve timing is off.

 

We originally tried the ones on the donor motor and it ran terrible, then we switched to cam sensors off original motor and it started running better. I wonder if somehow it blew out the driver circuitry on the ECU output, seeming more likely. In limp mode the current setup ran fine, but not after we rewired the CPS and installed a new one. Seeming more like the ECU.

 

Intake VVT Change angle is stuck at 0. Should be equal or very close to Target value. You should see similar to this at normal.





Sorry, I was wrong on the connector. On ECU side it is E10. Check connector/pins and resistance.

 

I thing swapping ECU is a logical step. All these sensors do play a role in the functionality of VVT.

 

Do we just bolt the new ECU in, turn the ignition on (but not try to start) and then do the the VIN, calibration ID from old one, and redo the immobilizer, then try to start after that?

 

Sounds kinda like what happened to my engine.... except I wasn't even towing anything. It just let go while crossing a bridge. The only signs was a loud ticking that I was told was the high pressure fuel pump...and was normal. Well then when it failed, all it did was make a pop noise and and the oil pressure warning light came on. It started screeching and grinding about 2 seconds after that. It was apparently a valvetrain failure that initiated the whole failure.

13k for a used engine with 44k and 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty done at my Toyota dealer, as no independent wanted to touch it, and Jasper does not have these engines.

 

That's insane, the dealers have gone mental, hopefully this thread will get some more of us to try to attempt a motor swap on our own, after all we're doing a lot of the troubleshooting for you all

 

Yeah you are, and we appreciate it!

My thoughts have been going to incorrectly timed engine (off a tooth), which would suck. Both cam sensors and solenoids being bad would be odd, but you need to eliminate any wiring issues that might be the common element. This is like a soap opera for dudes, loving it.

 

I have not done the swap. Perhaps someone could provide the input .
I think you bolt ecu, use your scanner special functions to write the original VIN.
If does not start, you need to jump pins on DL3 (4 and 13??) turn the key (don't start) and leave for 30 min or so to pair immo and ecu.

 

make sure youve got a battery charger hooked up to the battery while programming. shit goes south under 12 volts

 

Hopefully this thread will help about swapping the ECU https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecu-tune-and-failed-emissions-testing-experience.818248/

 

We got the ECU swapped, they VIN set, the immobilizer key registered and working, truck still starts, sorta idles and then dies, doesn't set any codes. Stumped.

I guess we'll try looking at the cam solenoid values, maybe I can try to set them to something more advanced so it'll run. Also I keep wondering about fuel supply. We did the throttle relearn sequence (and also tranny). I keep thinking it can't be something wrong with the motor because it ran okay and drove in limp mode, meaning the cam vvt position and fuel must've been adequate, drove a few miles just fine. Shifted hard though, but probably related to limp mode.