Undriveable 2021 TRD-OR - HELP WANTED

I would estimate it goes up maybe 100 - 200 rpm when the TC unlocks. Again, are you saying that the behavior I'm experiencing is abnormal and detrimental to the transmission? Or is this, in your opinion, normal/expected?

 

I fully expect my multispeed transmission to shift...when I'm accelerating or decelerating...not when I'm going the down the highway and a gentle breeze hits the front of my truck. My expectations for THIS TRUCK may have been way off, but I think they're completely reasonable when in the context of 98% of the other vehicles on the road. You really don't think it's reasonable to expect a vehicle to stay in overdrive while on the highway?

 

Do you have ECT turned on? Also have you tried putting the the trans in S mode? You can decide the upper gear limit in S mode. It’s pretty effective, I use it around town when I’m bored. You can actually rev the engine and get some engine braking. It holds a gear longer.

 

I do a lot of 6-4 shifts when driving on the highways here.

Truck climbs hills just fine at lower RPMs though.

Unladen, running about 2500 RPMs here:


I’m on 33s, lifted and carrying 350-550 of constant weight. Premium SFOB tune on 94 E0 Chevron.

The only time I go above 4K is when I need to pass someone or when performing my weekly “Italian tuning” My truck has a lot power at 4K, it turns into a rocket. Normal driving I barely go over 2.5K RPMs, plenty of power there.



Here, I was over payload. Towing an overloaded single axle… I would say 4500 pounds:


Only turning 3400 RPMs and that’s fighting headwinds too. About 1/4 throttle application. Truck is a beast!

 

That is completely normal. This is also why I traded my 2021 TRD OR automatic in for my current 2022 TRD OR manual...

 

If it happens above 65 mph, I would start looking at the tranny temps.
Stock "tune" does put TC into a slip mode before the downshift, but it is happening around 55 mph, but SLU solenoid is up and AT2 temp is normal.
You asked if there is a way to turn tc locking. It seems your tune does it, but there is a toll on the drivetrain.

 

When did your tuner mention this to you? I got tuned in November '23. Since then I've heard there was an update but I can't seem to get a straight answer from the (semi) local tuner I use.

 

14 Dec 23... It's a huge difference (to me) in driveability over what the old mild/med was...

 

I think you should try the Overland Torque Tune. Hopefully they have the dead pedal situation fixed and it will at least eliminate a little of the shifting issues you have. Granted, you're still gonna have the cruise blues, but it's nothing like it was. If the newly updated OT tune doesn't fix the dead, I wonder if the pedal commander might alleviate some of it. Anyone resolve the dead zone with a PC?

 

Could a pedal commander help OP with the throttle response? Don’t have one myself but I know they’re pretty popular and seem to have good reviews. They’re also a lot easier to get than a tune, especially if OP has to drive 4 hours to get one.

 

Op drives OTT

 

Considering 4th gear is 1:1
5th is the 1st overdrive
6th is the 2nd overdrive
It’s not surprising when it downshifts from 6->5




It’s all a math efficiency game anyway. People want 25mpg and to be able to go 100mph in a truck.

in

a







truck

 

look I did'nt design / engineer the 6spat but whats the alternative,smoking lock up clutches in your TC? You can blame that on the EPA and their outrageous fuel economy mandates. But yeah 33's definitely no bueno without re-gear. sounds like you need a first gen Raptor but then....Raptor problems!!!

 

OP, I apologize, I was thinking you had a YotaWerx tune, but I stand corrected. I do not have direct experience with the OTT tune, and do not know their policy on updates, or if they support flashing your own tunes. Everything i posted was on the misunderstanding that you had YotaWerx already.

At least one 3rd gen owner, had reported on the yotaWerx thread, that he purchased 3 different tune packages, OTT, YotaWerx and one other (escapes me), and reported that after wringing out all three, he landed on preferring the YotaWerx. Personally, with all the positive feedback for both these tuners, I would be hesitant to invest in a different brand tune. As much as I am happy to endorse YotaWerx, from my experience, I just can't imagine a different brand tune would make enough difference, to justify the expense.

IMO, if you desire to keep the truck; SC is the best option, MT probably 2nd best, Gearing would be 3nd best (some AT owners would suggest doing SC and Gears).

 

No, last I read he wasn't sure as he was asking what an OT Tune is. OP, you on OTT or Yota?

 

Buy a new truck, you'll never be happy with this one. So, I would go with option 'c' if I were you.

 

Just to add a few more figures to this: 5th gear is 0.85:1 for an ~15% overdrive
6th gear is 0.71:1 for an ~29% overdrive
Pretty steep to expect to use these gears on anything but flat ground.

 

I found my tuner using the search tool on https://overlandtailor.com/. The title of that site is "OTT - Overland Tailor Tuning", so my assumption was that I would be getting the OTT tune, but I don't have any records of what they put on my truck. I've asked the tuner to provide the specific details (name, build date, settings, etc.). I'll report back if/when he responds.

EDIT: I heard back from my tuner. I have "Overland Torque Tune", and it's the current (post SEMA certification) version. I have the Mild/Medium with ECT throttle response setting.

 

Yeah, that makes sense, and explains why everyone recommends going straight to 5.29 final drives. That always seemed drastic to me for running 33's, but with these two overdrives, 6th would still be spinning pretty slow (relative to where this engine makes power). I guess the idea is not to get it back to the stock ratios, but get it to where the stock ratios should have been...