Long Travel BS Thread

Well correct me then. I'm open to learning and admitting when i'm wrong

 

Can someone explain what anti squat is? Google makes no sense

 

I’m considering going down to 0 offset Icon Rebound Pro wheels. Currently running SCS -38 wheels both 17”. The truck is on +2 TC setup and will soon have a tundra rear 69” axle. I have had the ScS set before the current setup so wanted to right size the wheels for the setup.

Is there anything to consider or watch out for? I’m not running glass yet but the fenders are cut 3.25” up front and 2.5 or 3 in the rear and clear fine on the current setup.

 

https://www.crawlpedia.com/4_link_suspension.htm

Here, read through this

 

That explains a lot. Thank you

 

Basically it's intentionally adding a binding effect to your suspension geometry so that the suspension acts rigid when there's driveline torque and sends more power to the ground but still articulates when you hit bumps and turn. But chasing this effect can limit articulation in some cases and/or cause bad handling.
It's a bigger deal on road cars with IRS because squat on IRS will cause camber change so the tire contact patches will be unparallel with themselves and the smooth road more often. With solid axle there's only camber change with articulation, not squat because the tires stay parallel. Offroad you can get away with less antisquat because solid axle(when not articulating), big soft tires, and lots of travel(+travel for shocks to work) all counter the lack of traction that you're probably always gonna have some of on loose surfaces anyways. But it's still important because even pressure on all 4 tires as much as possible creates the least rolling resistance, thus faster vehicle the more it stays level

 

Finished building my steering box tonight. A decent learning experience porting the servo and drilling for assist.

 

Shooting in the dark looking for ideas here. The new cooling system doesn’t have a fill port at the engine for now, and we cannot get it to bleed. We’ve tried just about everything. Anyone have any ideas?

@tacotunner06

 

Gonna have a hell of a time bleeding it when the radiator is below the highest water jacket in the engine…

 

if you crack the hoses at the water pump are you getting fluid coming out of there? my radiator is higher but with pressure you should 100% be able to get something to push. i normally just crack my fittings for the heater core and my steam vent and that normally gets all the air out.

 

nah as long as his radiator top is at the top of the bed it will be higher than the factory radiator placement plus the ls is alot lower so i wouldn't think that would be as much a problem.

 

Rad neck is higher than engine. Also tried lifting the rear end of the truck in the air. No joy.

the lower water pump hose, yes, upper one no. Undid the steam vent port manifold hose and fluid came out. But the upper pump outlet, no fluid. We tried manually filling that too.

heater core is full, because when the truck is on, the heater is hot as hell. But fluid won’t circulate to the rad. We vacuum bled, then with fluid in the rad we pressurized it trying to force fluid into the block and nothing.

 

Get a vacuum filler.

 

so with the radiator completely full you cant get fluid out the upper hose? sounds like theres the problem, with the radiator cap off and completely full you should get some coolant to come out the top hose with it off unless its blocked or airlocking in the top of the radiator.

 

That’s what I was using in the pic I posted.

 

I think it’s airlocking in one of the lines or the block. We tried refilling the lines too from the engine side even though we vacuum filled it.

 

Well then. I’ve never even heard of not being able to bleed with a vacuum filler. Prayers.

 

if you take the upper hose off the radiator and off the engine can you stick a hose in it and get it to blow water thru?

 

I’m sure it would, there’s definitely no blockages.

 

If that’s the case you should just be able to take the upper hose off the engine side and get fluid out it from just the radiator being full so if that’s the case than you should be able to just bleed your steam vents and heater core and be good to go.