Long Travel BS Thread

Idk about 3d printed bumps holding up over time and use.
Also @snowsk8air2 and I are both still on rubber bumps up front. Mine just took some shimming to get bump right. rear is rubber bumps from JD for their kit. Been on them and smooth back there.

 

As long as those shackle mounts are for a 9/16 bolt and you cut the gussets so the outer sleeve is laying on top of the frame. You could probably repurpose those gussets or make your own, but make sure the shackle mount is on top of the frame and not on top of the included gusset it’s resting on top of in the picture from that link.

Front hangers could work, just depends on the measurements from where the front spring bushing needs to be placed on the frame and if it can position it there. It’s possible but hard to say until you have the factory one cut off and things layed out.




I got one from Kartek a long time ago - I don’t see them on their website but call and they’ll let you know. Ask for a 26” and also G and J aircraft should be able to make you anything you need also. Fittings are M10x1.0.

https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p307/26"_SS_Extended_Length_Rear_Brake_Lines_-_First_Gen_Tacoma.html

sometimes links get weird on this newer site format.

What are you planning on having in the back of your truck - HD’s are holding up fat a$$ overlander rigs / heavier 05+ platform rigs and may give you a lot of lift to the point where you may need to remove a leaf or two or get them re-arched. Iv'e got 2 full spares and a heavy rear bumper and I've got about 6.5" of up travel with E30's (regular H70's) and have a set of HD's I'm planning on testing to see how much up travel I gain and am looking for 8ish".

 

So far so good on the rear rubber bumps? Are you using limits for the rear? I got a pair with the kit but really no need to install them.

 

That video showed some testing from the viper. The only thing I didn’t like about the testing is that it was indoors and not (at least from what they were showing) introducing things like salt, moisture, and UV exposure over time.

 

I guess that's where the 2 year no question asked warranty comes in. Also a lot of things break and corrode, I'm in the SoCal desert tho. Maybe the 120F summers will be a good test.

 

For $100 less than durobumps which are not always failure proof (although well reviewed in the majority of cases) I'd be willing to give them a try if I were looking for a similar product. Of course there's no guarantee a startup will be around in 2 years either. Guess it's a toss up.

 

I'll report back in the near future how I like them.

 

I am hoping to keep my camper shell, moving my spare to the bed, a bed cage, about 80 lbs of tools, a fridge, power bank, and probably 50 lbs of camping gear. Do you think the HDs will still be too heavy duty? I’d guess I’m on the overlanding side just a camper instead of bed rack / rtt setup.

 

Maybe they could work. Get a rough estimate of the weight and give deaver a call and see what they say.

 

I did this a year ago. They made me a custom HD70 pack that had one extra leaf. After install it was a bit much so I pulled a spring. Muey Perfecto now. My dry* weight is 5190. *no ice chest, camping gear or people.

 

Same, ordered some too.

 

Thats exactly what I'm doing today, but with Bilstein bumps and pinch style cans (no plan to ever run a bypass so room isn't an issue or else I would have opted for those threaded kings).

2-1/4" hole saw straight up and through the stock bump bracket a little griding and welding and you're good to go.



Yes, the can is upsidedown lol

 

yes

 

With the GFC, spare in bed, recovery stuff. I'm a bit heavy. Going to have Deaver make a extra leaf for me.

 

Even too heavy for the H70hd’s? I just picked up the leafs. I couldn’t pass up on a basically brand new set for $700. I’m a little nervous I’m not heavy enough but the way I see it I’d rather be too light and have wiggle room for a second spare or fuel cell with the HD’s than be too heavy for the e30s and have to start cutting weight.

 

Also I’m playing around in CAD to see what I can do in the bed cage department and I am wondering where to put the tube at for the shocks. How much clearance I would need from the frame / tire for a 3.0 triple bypass. A 3.0 is likely overkill but I like to build for the future.

 

Does anyone know an equivalent part number (from napa etc) for the snap ring that holds the outer joint to the cv shaft? Ordered two boot kits just for this part and only got one

 

When I did my back half I made room for a 3.0x5tube bypass. If sticking with leaf springs, I’d say a 2.5”’is good enough but when pushing it things to the limit a 3.0 would be nice. For me the switch from 2.5x3 tube to a 3.0x5 tube is 50/50 benefited by oil capacity to keep things cool/ tunability

 

You’ll need a 1st Gen tundra axle with wheel spacers minimum to run them outside of the frame which will already put you at 3” over per side wms to wms before spacers which will put your rear track width almost even with a 3.5 kit. Check out @Anthony250 ’s build. He has 3.0’s but it’s not on his build thread yet. He built all the suspension on my truck awhile ago. If you’re serious about doing a lt feel free to reach out - there are a few really good resources out there for it.

First gens and 2nd/ 3rd gens are totally different frames - ours are straight while theirs are dovetailed so it’s not going to correlate at all to their vehicles.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anthonys-99-tacoma.175933/

 

GFC is about 300 with the solar panel and controllers attached to it.
Truck and lithium battery is back there.
Spare, off road jack, recovery bag all bag there and up against cab side as much as possible. Tools in cab behind seats.
It adds up quickly.

waiting on JD to release the new cubbies and going with a AntiGravity truck battery