OME kit purchase and self install suggestions

[/QUOTE]Now to the install:

1) Does this kit include everything I will need to put it on at my house when I get it? (I know that I will need the tools and spring compressor, but does it have all of the lift related parts that I will need?)
2) How long would it take two people to put this on? Or how long did it take you?
3) Do you think it's reasonable and practical to put it on myself and know that it's done right, rather than paying hundreds for a shop to put it on?
4) Are there any extras or other things that I need to add on to my order to do this?
5) Can someone refer me to a thread or anything that would walk me through the process of doing this?

I know that's a ton of stuff guys. But I really want to do this right and I know that many of you have already done this and know the right way to do things. Hopefully you can share your experiences and info with me so that I can do things right.

Thanks a ton in advance![/QUOTE]

Great Kit!! i would recommend it to anybody. if you take your truck off road a lot you wont regret this kit! When i installed mine (I'm only 17 and did it will relative ease) i learned the hard way to make sure you have all the tools necessary for the job. Get a good jack and some wood you can put under it to give it more height. get some tall jack stands so that you have plenty of room under the truck for dropping down the rear axel. For the front, the biggest problem i had was that the spring compressor i rented wasnt even close to compressing the spring down enough to get the top plate and nut on. I'd suggest taking it to a shop that has a wall mounted spring compressor because its much easier, much safer and it costs about $20 for both. Make sure you align the three bolts on the top plate so that you dont have to go back and readjust them after you get everything together (kicked myself in the ass for that one). I think BJMoose has a write up on the install but you can also look at a Billy 5100 thread too because its basically the same install process. I had some vibs in the rear at low speeds so i did the driveline spacer thing and it got rid of most of the vibs i got. Overall i think if you have a general idea about what your doing its pretty straight forward, make sure everything is aligned properly before you tighten everything down and you'll be fine. Good luck

 

thanks for the advice man, i appreciate it

 

i just purchased the wheeler's 10mm spacer (.5''-5/8'' lift) kit with longer studs; i'll use the longer studs when i reassemble my coils, just in case i ever do need the spacers due to sagging

 

What did that cost you bud ?

 

$67, the confirmation email said they'll add the shipping when they box it. it's a little steep; toytec's spacer kit w/studs was $59, but it gives 3/4'' (too much) and they take a while to ship. i heard wheeler's is pretty quick and i'd like to get this kit on this weekend if possible. i thought about getting toytec's 1/4'' (1/2'' lift) spacers at $19.99, but you have to buy them seperately and the studs aren't sold together either. so i just got it all in one shot at wheeler's for a tad more, meh.

 

well my coils, shocks, and other small items came in today.


i noticed a couple of things though. the boxes the shocks came in looked like they had been opened or left out in the weather somewhere. that's how it looked when i took it out of the larger box:


the shocks also looked almost like they had been used before, like they looked sort of beaten on. Also, on my front shocks, one of them is longer than the other. i checked both of them and they are both the 90000 series. i took off the little metal rods that held them compressed in the box, and one of them extended right out, and the other didn't really do as much. when i put the metal rods back on, the first one pumped right back out until the rod was tight and the second one stayed kind of how it was. it sort of pumped back out, but not until the rod was tight, it was still loose and sits about 1/2'' shorter. it's like it doesn't want to pump out right. if that makes sense

 

bump for if it's normal for my boxes to come like this or my shocks to be like this. is this difference in the shocks something to be concerned with?

 

Are the markings on the shocks identical ?

 

not exactly. the boxes and numbers on it were the same. on the actual shock, they both read "90000," but one of them has the code "D 26N009 3" and the other has "A 16AP10 3"

i don't know if that's significant or not.

 

I think it may be for a different vehicle .

I'll go look at my shocks right now , half a second .

 

thanks.

 

so yours are both the "A 16..." number. i guess i got sent the wrong thing. they seem to be the same length when i let them extend, but one seems harder to compress and doesn't extend back out as easy either.

idk what to do now

 

Here are mine , both the same length , both are marked A 16AP10 3

 

You said one box looked opened as well ?

I bet one shock was returned in the wrong box or something along those lines .

 

yeah, a couple of the boxes looked like they had been opened and left outside. the large staples were pulled out and the cardboard flaps were just folded back over. they also looked like they had been gotten wet and the shocks didn't really have a "brand new out of the box" look to them. idk how to go about figuring this out bc i ordered from down south motorsports, but they didn't send the product. they had it sent from a vendor or something in florida. so idk who is at fault.

 

Who cares , I know one thing , YOU are not at fault if it is wrong .

I would call them tomorrow morning .

 

the customer is always right, lol. i will do that. thanks for checking your shocks numbers to verify that.

 

No prob

The 09 of yours and the 10 may be years of manufacture ? maybe they changed spec slightly and you have a mixed set .

ie 16 / APR / 10 ? and 26 / Nov / 09 ?

 

yeah, i'm not 100% sure it's wrong. because fully extended they are the same length. they are also the same size around it seems too. it's just that one seems more firm and the numbers that are different. even if they are the same product just with different numbers, i don't know if i would want that either. i wouldn't want one to not last as long as the other or anything. and that difference in stiffness seems like it might affect how it may ride. could you see what the numbers on your rear shocks are too? i might need to make sure they are the same too.

 

does anybody else have access to the numbers on their front 90000 shocks? i really would like to know them to help me figure out what they have sent me.