Shop Time w/T.W. Friends

Good call. The fuses look like 35a (based on the tiny bit I could see) which is too much for either wire size you mentioned under normal conditions, there are exceptions for non-continuous motor starting loads that allow bigger breakers than you would think on smaller wire than you would think, but without the code book in front of me I couldn’t tell you exact fuse sizing for #12 UF, which is what this kind of looks like to me.

 

Good morning guys, have a good Wednesday

 

In a sub panel the neutral (grounded conductor) and ground (grounding conductor) should be separated. The neutral returns the unbalanced load to the neutral bar(transformer), and the ground provides a direct path to ground. A simplified way to think of it is a neutral can carry current, a ground shouldn’t, but if it does it’s to trip the overcurrent device, whether it’s a breaker or pops a fuse. They are only supposed to be connected at a main panel(first means of disconnect), so that a parallel path for current is not formed throughout the system between ground and neutral.

 

Short answer:
Neutral-to-ground bond is needed to properly operate the circuit breakers.

Long answer cut -n- paste:
Over Current Protection Devices (OCPD) such as circuit breakers and fuses actually require a short and intense INCREASE in electrical current (a short) in order to detect the fault and cut the circuit off. Without a sharp and drastic increase in electrical flow, a fault could go on without triggering a circuit breaker to stop the flow. This actually occurs quite often and can be measured easily by checking the amount of current flowing on your ground conductor. It should be less than 1-amp in most cases. If the current flowing on a grounded conductor is higher than an amp, and you are not in a high-voltage (600V+) environment, it typically indicates an erroneous neutral-to-ground bond somewhere in the system.

To visualize the reason why the neutral-to-ground bond is required, you must consider the entire electrical circuit from a 120-volt outlet all the way back to the utility transformer hanging out on the pole:

• In a properly designed circuit, if a fault were to occur on the 120-volt outlet between the hot-wire and the ground, the current will flow through ground wire back to the main panel, where it will move to the neutral wire via the neutral-to-ground bond, up to the utility transformer, back down the hot wire to the circuit breaker, tripping the breaker.
• In a faulty designed circuit, if a fault were to occur on the 120-volt outlet between the hot-wire and the ground, the current will flow through ground wire back to the main panel, where because it does not have a neutral-to-ground bond, the current will be forced through the ground rod, into and across the earth, and up the utility ground rod and into the utility transformer, back down the hot wire to the circuit breaker. The resistance of the earth is almost always to great to allow sufficient current flow to trip the breaker, and you end up with a steady-state ground fault, that never trips the breaker, and this is a hazardous situation indeed. You cannot use the earth as a conductor.

Another issue that can occur, is that multiple (and illegal) neutral-to-ground bonds can exist in the system (only one bond is allowed in the main panel). When this occurs, both the ground and the neutral become current-carrying conductors, which effectively means that you have two (2) neutral wires running in parallel. This divides the current and places electrical energy on to the chassis of all metallic objects within the system.

 

Thanks for the explanation

 

-J

 

That sounds like @Hobbs reading. Whatchew think @StayinStock

 

https://homearise.com/what-neutral-wire/

 

I remember stumbling across a neat graphic that showed the difference between Ground and Neutral but I cant find it quickly and I dont want to misquote it. It showed a powerline on the street going through a transformer and the path of power into the house, to the appliance and back to the panel and how it returned to the powerline/transformer. Shame really, it was a nice graphic. The video depicts an accurate representation of the differences though. I had to use CC since these speakers don't work on this computer so I didn't hear the narration.

-J

 

Thats way out of my jurisdiction, I'm still amazed that I change my own mower oil.

 

Cool use of scraps.

 

Finally done.

Red is new or changed room numbers, blue is existing, unchanged numbers.

 

Good morning Gents!!!!
0-60 in 3.5 seconds just isn’t the same without a nasty sounding V8 pushing it.

 

Can it do 60-0 in 3.5 seconds

 

It’s closer 4.5-5 seconds I’d say. 3.5 is what google told me for this particular model.

 

Aaaaaand I was just informed they're changing the floorplans.

 

As long as it's not the floor numbers you should be ok

 

I will not be ok.

If they make any changes, I'll have to redo them. Now that I have a basis figured out, adjustments aren't usually too bad to incorporate.

This is the (admittedly horrible but no one else could come up with anything better) path I used for numbering the other building that's breaking ground soon.



Once that was done, changes just fall into place.