OFFICIAL - 3rd GEN 275/70r17 Tire Thread

Well I got the Wildpeak AT4’s installed yesterday and they look great. A TINY rub on the passenger mud flap when I’m making a hard right turn on to an uneven surface(turning in to my driveway) but I think I can fix it with a heat gun and having the alignment checked. I also noticed discount filled the tires to 40 psi so I plan on dropping that to about 35 later. Overall I’m prettt happy with how it turned out. Thanks to everyone here for their feedback and help in answering my questions.

 

Thanks for posting!

I was wondering how tires that size would look on my exact truck...and you have a Sport.

 

Meant to add now that I've removed the sway bar I'm gonna need to do some trimming or fender liner heat gun work. Noticed on last trip full flex there was definitely more rubbing. Just need to go find a spot to hit full flex and figure out what areas to work on as it wasn't the cab mount

 

I run 285s on SEMA wheels and did the in line calibration from RC, same unit just cheaper. My KDMAX tuner updated my tune when I went bigger and did he calibration as well. I would recommend it, it took a few tries and we calibrated it against a GPS to get it dialed in perfect. The vehicle's computer on mpgs is more accurate, shift points seem to be spot on and the mileage is correct.

 

Figured I'd add my experience here as well. Just got the AT4Ws installed yesterday, running a eibach stage 2 lift, about 1.5in front and a 1in block in the rear. Definitely had a few bumper plastics to cut, but my passenger cab mount looks like it took a few blips from the tire as well. I'll get them chopped if it continues to be a clearance issue, especially when flexing. I'm glad I didn't go all the way to 285s from stock. Otherwise I'm super happy with my setup.

RRW RRS-7 Wheels 17x8.5 +0
Falken AT4W 275/70/17 C load

 

Looks great. I just put those same tires on SEMA Wheels with a 2"/1" lift and had a little rubbing on the mudflap, but the alignment shop was able to correct everything and I'm not rubbing at all. I suspect your rubbing issues are more due to the width of the wheel being 8.5" vs 7" for the SEMA Wheel. An alignment check might help a little bit, maybe they can push the wheel a little farther away from the cab mount, but you'll most likely have trimming to do anyways. Id rather trim plastic than cut the body mount. What PSI are you running your tires at? Discount Tire put mine at 40 psi which seems high to me, so I took it down to 37. I'm still thinking of going lower, but not sure.

 

I think I can get away with them pushing it forward with an alignment but at this point, I sort of knew going bigger tires meant a CMC on the Tacoma. Sucks, but pay to play unfortunately.

Funny enough discount tire also mounted and balanced mine and put mine at 40. I drove probably 15 or so miles this morning and it's definitely a lot of air but doesn't feel horribly stiff. I've read through most of this thread and most say 35 or so. I'll likely go down to that and see how they ride and then do a chalk test as well to see if that's a good PSI for dailying.

 

Its wild how with the skinnier wheels I have tons of room, but i get it, that 1.5" diffference in width pushed the wheel out farther than mine. I was able to retain the mudflaps and not rub.

I lowered my PSI to 37 cold and it rides great, but I think I need to go down. The other day when I parked I was looking at the tire, and it looked like the little pieces of debris that were picked up on the road were on the center of the tire, there was about a 1" space from where it didnt collect at the outer edges of the tire. But I wont know until I do a chalk test..

 

Ok y'all, when you say discount did this and discount did that.....Discount didn't do it. It was the laborer who was minimally taught that did it. They never look on the door jamb to check tire pressure. They just push the button on the air gun until it shows on the second or third line. That means they usually put in 40 lbs or so. You always need to check air pressures and lug nut torque yourself at home. The lugs are usually tightened to second or third notch on the air impact wrench which is about 100-120 lbs. If you check at home and your torque wrench clicks that just means it's at MINIMUM at your setting and may be more. You need to loosen all lugs and re-torque in a crisscross pattern yourself and check/re-torque yourself in a few miles.

 

Last time I checked discount tire would be the ones holding the insurance policy to cta when things go wrong. So I’m using discount tire since I didn’t meet the technician that mounted, balanced and inflated my tires and they’re liable for their tech’s actions. I also didn’t have them mount anything on my truck, I took them the wheels and tires then picked them up and mounted them myself at home, torqued to spec yesterday and again today after 50 miles. This ain’t my first rodeo. I didn’t care what PSI they put in my tires so long as they were inflated because after it left their shop, it was on me to adjust accordingly. I wanted to see how they rode at 40, I took them down to 35 and I’ll see how they ride tomorrow, it’s not that serious.

 

30 pounds cold is the perfect setting for 275s or 285s. Thats what I run, that's what Discount set them at because they asked me. Also they used a torque wrench on mine.

 

I just took mine down to 33-35 too and the ride is great. With a max psi of 60, 35 feels solid. I noticed when I had it set a little higher, around 37, I saw the debris on the tread from the road not touching the sides of the tire. So I took it down to around 33 cold, and it usually gets up to 35ish while driving, and it feels great. Does anyone have a write up on how exactly to perform the chalk test?

 

mine is set at 40 cold.

 

Same lift, sitting at 2.5” and I’m getting rubbing right here. Is this where you trimmed as well?

Wheels are at a zero offset, Method 316’s

 

Yes, trimmed the fender flare and I had some cab mount rubbing on the passenger side so I just finished up doing a chop on both to prevent any other issues.

 

i would have your alignment checked too. When I got my tires installed I rubbed the mud flaps. I’m on a 2” 5100 lift. When I made a right turn on to a driveway or something like that I would scrub a tiny bit. I went to a good alignment shop and they were able to change the alignment well within specs, but move the tire forward in the wheel well.

 

not OP, but he was responding to me so thanks for the tip, I'm on a hunt for a good off-road shop that I can explain this sort of thing to, besides the typical off the shelf alignments for normal cars. I'm holding off on said alignment until I get some new UCAs, which I'm still in the shopping process for since I'll really need one after I swap those out.

 

Yeah you have to find a good 4x4 shop. That’s what I used when I got the tires. I took it in and explained to them what I was aiming for, and actually had a photo from a friend of the specs he was running 285’s on a 2” lift, with no rub(on SEMA wheels). They were able to correct the issue. I actually ordered new UCA’s, and was going to swap them, but after a someone posted a video from an Asian mechanic talking about changing UCA’s with little lift so decided not to, and returned them. I wish I could find the link to that video it was great

 

Yeah, I’m beyond excited for this shop Monday. The guy knew exactly what I was talking about. I do have aftermarket UCA that also claim to give more caster than stock. So… fingers crossed.

 

Tinkerers Adenturers.
Can’t recall if what you’re referencing was in part 1 or part 2 of this series.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=huMztKaHsUE