3rd Gen Entune Premium Head Unit specs

I will probably get the kicker cs series speakers for the front and rear and the subaru tweets for the dash and see how it sounds.

If I need more bass then I will add a 10 inch sub.

How does that sound?

I now know that I have the Entune Premium Audo Head Unit. I don't know if that model is any good, but that's what I have.

 

They’re all the same as far as audio goes. A lot of misinformation on here about one being better than the other, but that is not the case. Just more features, bigger screen, etc.

 

@destin_meeks Very interesting.. May explain some of the oddities in Tuning once I finished my install.. Great information there. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

 

I forget where I saw it, but one member tested it with an RTA and said that the bass also seems to increase as the volume increased. Who’s would be extremely unfortunate, considering your tune at vol 20 would need to be different that’s your tune at 30, and different again for 40, and so on.

 

Thanks!

 

I was looking to do this but I might as well just put a amp and subs. Head units are expensive theses days

 

Good morning, I am new to this whole forum thing and I have a question for Destin. I have the non JBL HU in my 19 Taco, I just installed JBL GTO 6x9's and JBL GTO's 6.5 as well as deadening to all 4 door panels this past weekend. I bought 2 sets of dash speakers as I am not sure what I am gonna put in yet. (

$45 Pioneer TS-a709 2.75" 2-Way Speakers (Pair) – 600W Max, Balanced Sound + Smooth Treble, Great Stock Replacement, Easy Installation

Pioneer TS-a709, and

$48 Kicker 47KSC2704 2.75" Mid-Range Speakers, 4ohm with Brackets for Select GM/Chrysler/Subaru/Jeep and Toyota Included

Kicker 47KSC2704) Where is my question. I am aware the rear speakers get no power to the back speakers. So, if i get a 4 ch. amp, say the JL AudioJD400/4, will I get the quality sound most people seek? I am not looking for loud noise, but clarity. Hook the front up to the 1,2 ch and the rear to the 3,4 and will that be all you think I need to do? or hook front and back up to ch. 1/2 and in the future if I want to add a 8" Memphis sub i have, can I add to other ch? sorry this is so long, just not trying to change the HU. Please give me your honest opinion and any and all suggestions. Thank you much

 

I’m not a fan of using different speakers around the truck. If you got JBLs for the doors, get the matching tweeters for the dash.

I’m also not a fan of doing coaxials in the front doors and then an additional tweeter in the dash. Your highs will be way too harsh. Dozens of threads here from people who tried it and didn’t like it.

Adding an amp will get you louder. It will also get you more clarity than the head unit at higher volumes because it runs out of power very quickly. But just make sure to properly set your expectations about clarity. You’re looking at lower-mid range speakers, a mid range amp, and running it all from the factory radio (which is not the best sound quality in the first place)

 

I appreciate your knowledgeable reply and am wondering what you would do in my situation. Both from what I have already speaker wise, (without and with sub) and if I were to change HU. What would you pick HU wise and amp set up, at a low to medium cost. Thanks...

 

FWIW,
Value for the money, I’d go with the Skar RP series amps. The RP75.4A/B does above rated power and isn’t going to break the bank. Kicker CS or DS class speakers will also serve you well. also, Blaupunkt has a 8” powered sub that is 2Ohm with 115 watts true RMS output.( I have one and its output is actually better than ANY Blaupunkt product) * which isn’t saying much.
you’ll also need to consider a DSP because Entune has a built-in EQ curve that’s brutal. If at all possible, use high output from your HU, this will also help with signal strength. I wouldn’t change HU but if you do, consider using Crutchfield.com, they have everything you’ll need for whatever route you’d like to take. Just my thoughts.

 

Cheapest initial upgrade to the stock radio (best bang for buck) in my opinion is replacement of the front door 6x9 with aftermarket that have high sensitivity rating. I went Hertz. I also installed the Kicker tweeters in the dash which weren’t too expensive. I already owned a powered 12” sub I installed which made the biggest difference in sound for me. My setup will get me by until I replace the head. The Hertz are good, but they definitely need more power that the new head unit will provide. I’m not interested in a separate amp to power the doors at this point.

 

Mannn I sure wish I understood all this terminology and verbiage. Either way all this information provided is highly appreciated. Basically my question if anyone can answer it, is it worth upgrading my tweeter speaker to the DS18 I believe they're 100watt 4ohm. Does the stock head unit produce enough power to have a significant difference in the speaker performance or should I just wait until I upgrade my entire sound system with a adequate amp and aftermarket speaker. Thanks in advance

 

I would personally not do just the tweeters unless it will be a while until you can build the rest of the system.
The tweeter will get you a noticeable improvement, but you’ll want to ditch the DS18’s and get a matching component set once you get speakers for the rest of the truck.

If you’re willing to spend the money for a temporary upgrade and don’t mind taking a loss down the road, throw the tweeters in there. The kicker Subaru tweeters are another popular plug-and-play option.
If you’re only a few months away from a full system, save your money and don’t get them.

 

Yeah I'm thinking it's going to be quite some time before I have the coin to go full blown sound system upgrade. The tweeters are about 65USD I figure I can get a bit crisper sound. I just wasn't sure if the stock head unit would power them enough to make a significant difference with out an amp

 

The Subaru tweeter upgrade is very popular and they all they it’s a noticeable difference so you should be good

 

The data for all the tests seems fairly sound but the watts don’t add up since ohms law states volts equals amps (I) times resistance. (V=IR) so with a resistance of 4 ohms and a voltage of 13.11 in one of the measurements you end up with 13.11/4=3.275amps.
Then the next step is P=VI where P is power in watts, V is the voltage, and I is the current in amps. Therefore 13.11(v)•3.275(I)=42.9 watts at the frequency and voltage shown in the experiment. I was adding speakers to the stock head unit and really worried when I first started reading this. My plan to balance the output front and rear based on the data you provided is to have speakers with differing sensitivities front and rear to balance things out. 45watt RMS rear and 75 watt RMS front. With sensitivity of 1w @ 1m, 94db and 90db respectively. My speakers will not be in until Wednesday so I’ll post and let you know how my theory on balancing the sound levels turns out.

 

That's all assuming 100% efficiency, which doesn't exist. Class A/B amps are usually around 50% efficient. And for a head unit, there is more than just the speaker outputs. Power is being used to run the screen, trying to calibrate the GPS that's disconnected, spinning the disc, running the laser in th CD player, and a whole host of other operations running in the background.