LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Like I said there’s a special technique to running the dunes! NEVER CREST a DUNE at a 90‼️ ALLWAYS GO OVER a CREST at A MINIMUM 45 degree angle. Run a circle until you’re at the top then over to the other side. Think of a long winding turn. It’s really fun when you learn the technique!!

 

This is why I’m scared to go to the dunes lol. I’ve never been and don’t want to be *that* guy that gets someone or myself hurt because I didn’t know what tf I was doing, or was in the wrong spot at the wrong time.

 

Took my truck to work this morning and pulled the tank down. The arm somehow came off the old level sensor. Popped the new one in and we’re good to go now!

Didn’t install the Holley, it wasn’t designed for OEM tanks which I just found out.

 

ur still running the stock pump? With my stock tank I ran an aeromotive stealth drop in that worked well. Urd even has installation instructions just don’t buy their pump since it costs more.

 

No, I’m running a deastchworks 340LPH in the stock bucket. Got it from URD. If you scroll up HELLA you’ll see my rant about them. Those guys suck. They kept questioning why I wanted a pump that big instead of just selling it to me.

 

Oh gotcha, yeah that’s the same pump I’m running now just external. Though I gotta look into mine… it’s so loud, and I understand that it’s external so it’s gonna be but it’s louder than I think it was new so might have to check my fuel filters.

 

Ugh 56 pages. Did someone already ask about 4wd?

 

Lmao. Yes

it’s still 4WD. NP261HD transfercase mated to a 4L75E. Did the ADD delete on the front diff.

 

Wasnt having any overheating issues, but changed out the 195 degree thermostat for a 160* one. I just wanna prepare as best as I can for summer time here lol.

 

Hey,
It’s really not that difficult‼️ Just watch some YouTube videos and you’ll catch on. Buy a whip and mount it. Like I said don’t drive straight over the dunes just remember to crest a dune / hill / blind spot at an angle. Plus driving in big loops, is what makes it FUN‼️ When weather conditions permitted I would literally wear Motor Cross boots, (Starting the 2 stroke 500 w/ lots of compression) helmet, gloves and swim shorts when I was 160 lbs before I got old & fat! On the 500 you just need to learn to move your butt side to side. The lower off the side of the bike the faster you could do power sides. Plus razors and sand skates II helped a lot! Straight paddles, would high side you. Little straight paddles are for racing in straight lines. I used to love putting Yamaha banshee’s in place. Oh, the good old days when I made fair money.

 

@tacotunner06

just to Make sure I’m not brain dead.

with a 160* thermostat,

fan one should turn on at 165 and turn off at 160,

fan two should turn on at 170 and turn off at 165 correct?

 

no your still better off allowing it to heat more. i wouldn't bring the temps that far down. but 180-185 range might not be a bad place to start. you can always adjust as the weather gets warmer as well.

 

If it makes any difference.. I run a 160 T stat in my 1gr.

@Pittsy I was really surprised how quickly and easily the 1gr came out yesterday btw. Went smoooooth as shit until I dinged his door with the header flange. Was rolling the engine in and it swung a bit too much...

 

Yeah they’re easy to pull. I was a stubborn mf when I pulled mine because I wanted to pull everything as one unit. Engine, trans, tcase. I pulled everything up and out of the engine bay.

 

Actually.. that's a good point. Im sure a 4wd like mine would be more of a pain than the Xrunner was. So much room without a front diff and everything in there. Plus it's already nice and low to hoist the engine out. Lol

 

Just bled the cooling system. The trick is to vent the steam port manifold and then it’ll work. Idle temps are now 185 driving temps are 180. Much more comfortable for AZ driving.

also, now that this ole girl is done leaking…


Can finally clean my driveway.


I forgot to take pics of this, but I pulled out the 1/2” plug in the oil pan and replaced it with a barb fitting, and hooked my catch can up to it with a one way valve, so when the engines off it’ll drain into the pan, and when it’s running the vacuum system will still be sealed.

 

Due to the straight up unavailability of the Holley dashes, and the pain it would be to make it look good in the OEM dash spot, I’m thinking about taking apart the OEM cluster and mounting the Holley handheld internally. Not sure what I want to do yet, because if I need to
Make adjustments I want to be able to use the handheld.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index...id=1192/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

I’ll use this for the tach and Speedo, not sure what to do for coolant temp though. Any ideas?

 

someone on this forum claimed they had a converter box or something to make the temp gauge work but i always just used obd readers for it until i did th haltech dash.

 

I just wanna make the stock dash work. Until someone makes a nice adapter for the Holley dash or something.

 

Figured out the crunch noise from those videos. I’m chaffing the fiberglass. Super easy fix, just need to trim it away about a half inch and I’ll be good. Looks like some slight rubbing on the bumper but it’s not audible in the cabin at all.

Also bucked my coolant jug out of the bed. That’s a first. Guess I need a strap or something.

ripping this thing is fun though.