Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Understand, but in your illustration of the timing marks in post #632, the single line timing marks are on the left cylinder head and the double line timing marks are on the right side cylinder head (looking at the illustration).
In silverstr8p's picture in post #631, it has both the single line VVTI AND the double line VVTI ON THE SAME HEAD. I believe they need to be swapped over. Trying to paint an clear and understandable word picture.

 

According to Parts.toyota.com, it is a same part # for the phasers.
He needs to rotate the crank to get yellow marks on small chain to line up with notches on the bearing cap when cylinder #1 is in TDC. After that he can tell if he is out of timing. Probably need to remove all covers

 

So what exactly are the phasers supposed to do, do they just get oil from the center bolt and either advance or retard the cams based on whether the external solenoid is pushing the center pin in or out, or is there something else electrical happening too? Is it possible I also need to swap all the phasers to the ones from the old motor, or should the phasers be the same anyway for both motors?

Sounding more and more like we need to pull the front cover to check, I would be very sad (well, even sadder) if we have to pull the front cover again because we didn't get all the doo-dads in there right.

 

Phasers don't go bad, especially on Toyota's. However, the engine came off of the wrecked truck. Could be a factor? But before you replace them, verify the timing and check for possible jumped tooth. Perhaps verify if the oil gets to phasers.
ECM control the duty cycle of the solenoid. Low duty - retard, High duty- advance. That moves plunger and opens corresponding oil passages for the designated chambers, oil fills the chambers and forces vanes inside to rotate and rotate the cam. Thats pretty much all about the system.

 

It's snowing like crazy today, really wish I had the Taco back today, but nope.

The head's going back on the Land Cruiser today, back from being milled 5 thousandths to make it flat again. If we can get that together today, I can drive to my house, the duramax just ain't happening.

 

Have you driven a Ford lately?

 

We have three Ford's, diesel and gas, along with GMC, Chevy, International, Ram and Mercedes, take your pick, they all visit the mechanic. The Ford 7.3 diesel is pretty good, weirdly so is their city van thing. We've done almost nothing to the taco since it was born. Well, except trusting the dealer was changing the filter while I sat in the truck at their lube center.

We're working on the lifter re-assembly on the Land Cruiser, guess they got mixed up at the machine shop, so now we're mic'ing a bunch of them (grrr). It would be nice to have the Land Cruiser though, since we got more than a foot of snow. After he gets that together and we can dig out of the snow, we'll pull the front timing cover on the taco and make sure timing is right. If that's okay, I really have no idea what to check. What are the odds it skipped a tooth? Possible I guess, just seems unlikely.

Patient on the land cruiser table:

 

How is the tension on the main chain? Can you lift it off of the teeth on the intake cam? It should be very tight. Were you able to lineup timing marks on bank 1? Take spark plugs off and slowly rotate the crank, check marks when cylinder #1 in TDC. If the timing is good, you should see bank 1 marks lineup on the small chain and the main chain and you should be able to repeat it after a bunch of revolutions.

If timing is good, take bearing cap #1 off and check the OCV oil filter. Rotate a crankshaft and check if the oil is getting pumped through the hole. If no obstruction, plan to swap phasers.

Did you test solenoids by applying 12V to them?.


You already swapped the gear bolts, correct?

 

The main chain looks fine. After we get the land cruiser head working we'll dive back into the taco. I expect we still need to swap the phasers to match the different part number (and they look different) on the bolt that the solenoids actuate, and I think that means we have to pull the timing cover back off.

Meanwhile, here's a better picture of the land cruiser head, we bolted it together, tried to crank it and it seems to have no compression, must've gotten the timing chain 180 out or something. Will tear into it and check when it's daylight.

When will this ever end - wrenching on Toyota's? Soon I hope. Sweet Moses' ghost I hope soon.

 

I too hope it ends soon but am grateful that you have shared this with us. With all the feedback you have received, especially @Vlady I feel like I’ve been taken to school again. I always feel grateful to learn something new even if there is no immediate need for it. You’ll conquer this.

 

Thanks, I'm getting more annoyed at dealers as this thread goes - if this forum wasn't available and and us motorheads weren't doing our own wrenching, there's seemingly no end to the money they're willing to steal from us while avoiding as much risk as possible. They mark up the parts, charge shop time and do it in half the time they charge, and the ONE TIME I've ever trusted them to work on any vehicle I own, there's this.

I really hope all of you will keep on wrenching, and this gives you the confidence to go to the garage and fix your own problems, and then tell us about it!

 

Not going to defend dealers, but I do want to defend many of the techs. Cars are getting more and more complicated, and they have to know how to work on several different makes and models with more complex systems. I think that most techs would give you a reasonable quote and figure out the problem, not just fire the parts cannon at it. But the dealer and service writer are trying to get the most $ out of the customer while paying the least $ to the techs and pumping volume through. This makes it difficult for the tech to do his/her job -- they don't get paid enough to do a proper diagnosis and pretty much have to do what the service writer puts down, whether it's right or not. This is a short-sighted business model, but I guess it aligns with the 15-second attention span generation, most of who don't know and never will know better. To me, a better business model would be taking care of your customers like they are good friends or family.

I personally will keep wrenching, and what I don't know, I will learn. I also appreciate when people come here to learn or share their knowledge like you have!

 

Looking at the new donor engine, found the number 2GRM239731x on it, is there a way to know anything about the year or other details from the number?

We're finally getting to pulling off the front cover and trying to swap phasers if they're a different part number than the original motor, I suspect they are.

Can bent rods (Land Cruiser) be straightened by the machine shop, or those just a replace situation?

 

Bent rods…….they can be straightened. Really not worth the cost of straightening, it takes a damn good shop to do it. Easier and cheaper to replace the rods.

 

oops, I meant bend valves.

 

replace them

 

nope……replace them

 

You coud just swap the cam tower for both banks from your old one. If go this route, make sure to swap valve caps and followers. Mark them and move them into the same location.

 

I know the OP has said this but your help is really appreciated here. This is what forums are really for, helping others out with their problems. You have gone above and beyond.

 

Aannd we're pulling the front cover back off. The problem, I think, is that you can do it with the pan on, and you can't get the pan off without pulling the motor back out. Correct me if I'm wrong, in this case I'd really like to be wrong, it would save time.