1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Ah, yeah you've run into the part where I couldn't make things work by cutting communications either. I tried severing those wires (all three one at a time) CC still worked but lockup wasn't achieved. But there are other accounts of people losing lockup and sometimes OD due to the CC units going bad on forums and whatnot (why I even thought to troubleshoot there, I was previously at a loss to the loss of lockup). Trans control solves the issue... electronic throttle body if you want to avoid having a big cc motor and cables on the fender haha.

 

Maybe you can figure it out, it isn't a problem on my radar other than this one truck because everyone else has a manual or no CC or both already. Here's the whole CC and auto diagrams, I suppose there could be a direct to trans connection or something, Toyota has been known to be weird like that.

 

Ya between these, I can't see any reason it would impact lockup. You're 100% sure it's lockup?

 

I'm 100% sure it's lockup and I wonder if they're communicating on the data line. The CC and trans share the Yel/Blk line to the datalink connector...

 

I see what you're saying now.... hmm quite a mystery. To add to that, it looks like the different years change the data link connector reference (mine shows D1 vs yours shows D3)

Data link connector 1's I/O seems to be TE1 to the ECU, with feeds from OP3 (CC), TC (ABS,CC,airbag, others?), AB (airbag), and TS (ABS). OP3 has no appearance on the CC diagram though
That's crazy though, I had no idea there were other communication buses onboard. So you think there's a mismatch in speed reporting and the TCU side is probably interpreting that as an accel/decel and not allowing lockup?



Edit: didn't 01 implement some sort of CANBUS? I notice you have TC on your ECU and I don't on mine. Now I'm curious if my '99s lockup might work if this bus comm theory is correct

 

Later years removed the under hood one I think. I've only observed this behavior on a 2002 (so really any 01-02 should be very similar) there's a chance this behavior may not present in yours. The vehicles have always had an internal communication bus but it's really easy to ignore mostly but that how the factory tools from the time (pre-TIS) interfaced with the airbag module, TCU, ABS, and what have you. Doesn't help that the OBD communications protocols also changed through the years as well, there's lots of little wiring and logic changes through the years.

 

Well, something else to catalogue if nothing else

 

Yeah, one thing I was tempted to do was to hookup a dummy light to the OD Off light to see if it was trying to blink a trans code to me... the CC can blink for failures too but even with three wires cut to the ECU it didn't.

 

It's not completely irrelevant, my 03 has the Auto and CC so this will be good to know when I go down that rabbit hole.

 

Apparently idle is 100% controllable using solely timing and is actually the faster regulation method, if anyone wanted to get crazy.
Turns out that's how my Saab's T8 ECU works

 

Yep that's how I controlled Mike's when we were pretty sure his wiring was messed up. The fastest is actually using the two in conjunction with each other. Be careful using the timing to control it too much you might find yourself with glowing manifolds and crazy head temperatures if you retard it too much. The ign is really good for fine control and quick corrections that you then let the IAC catch up to.

 

@treyus30 Just noticed Nik Czzowitz from Haltech has other CAN broadcast data that isn't normally published on their site but he is willing to release. Might be worth shooting him an e-mail if there's info you're still after. Saw he was giving away the id'd and formatting for the thermocouple can device and the wideband 2 module.

 

I need to start back on that. I finished rewriting the code but haven't built the new hardware prototype again to start debugging.
The HT self-reports up to 12 WB sensors' inputs natively, but I don't think there are thermocouple symbols unless you assign them to a symbol that is reported. But that info might still be helpful as emulating inputs on the 8 analog pins is a long-term goal (so you wouldn't need their $400 box (or I/O box if you just wanted analog input), you could just attach 0-5V in and tell my device it's whatever you want it to be, with that knowledge). We do have the 8 analog in (A & B) IO box CAN information though already

 

Was tinkering today trying to feed HT speed into VSS1's place and realized my CTS was past it's max setting just idling for maybe 10-15 mins (>235F, yikes). I should increase fuel and decrease timing advance in coolant temp corrections, correct?

 

And speaking of, I was surprised to find that the VSS1 connector had +12|GND|+11V. I had assumed I would need to feed a pulsed +5V into a signal wire, but doing that into the center pin did nothing. Now I'm thinking I probably just need to pull down the +11V pin, which would be much simpler than what I did. Zane, any insights?

UPDATE: I was correct, you simply need to pull down the pin #3 at a frequency dependent on your speed. HOWEVER, it seems Gabe/whoever wired this actually used VSS1 and not VSS2 for speed input, so I'm getting a feedback loop. SO now to replace VSS1 with VSS2 input...

 

Sorry been busy with work today, which is weird. Don't use ign control unless you absolutely need it, you shouldn't need it in such huge amounts with an IAC though. I only let mine swing 10° but more than +10 retard is gonna heat things up fast.

 

Normal idle is 12.5*, and I set it at up to 8* retard from that, but it's still happening. It's only a problem when I'm sitting, but could be an issue in the summers when I need AC.

As far as the VSS goes, I got it going. Fed VSS1+ (negative didn't work) into SP1 on the HT and have STEP1 P4 out to pin 3 on the VSS#1 connector. Need to calibrate the new speed still. Do you know how many teeth are on the VSS2 reluctor? I chose 16.
Biggest issue seems to be there's some delay/filtering/averaging going on from the VSS#2 input, even though "filter scale" is set at 0. So my odometer lags my actual speed. No idea what's causing that.

 

So are you idling at 12° of advance or 12° of retard? Just trying to clear it up because really either one shouldn't cause you to get to 235° particularly quick but that is a lot of retard still without moving that's going to heat up the head in the manifolds quite a lot. Do you maybe have an air bubble in your cooling system or something going on?

 

12 of advance, so oscillates around 4* of advance when it's overheating now. Before I changed it, there was no added retard at vacuum.

 

Four degrees of advance shouldn't be causing it to heat up. I mean you can test it pretty easily by just setting it to the standard 10 at idle. But that doesn't sound like it's your overheating problem.

I would like to know more about what you're doing with the different speed signals though. What's your reason for using the second speed sensor and if you wouldn't mind also explaining where it is on the transmission cuz you're set up is different than mine. The Tacoma that I was working on recently that isn't mine has one for the input shaft of the transmission and then one for the total drivetrain that occurs at the transfer case. But I understand that prerunners were set up differently. The signal that was going to the cluster in the truck that I was working on was the one obviously that senses the whole drivetrain after the transfer case