Brake check

So I recently replaced my front brakes and pads on my 2016 Taco. I used Raybestos E3 Hybrid pads and Dynamic Friction Rotors. I removed the cap from the Master Cylinder before pushing pistons back. I bled rach side about 12 times when I was done in the off chance I got air in the system. I also replaced the brake fluid with DOT 5.1 while I was bleeding them.

I bedded the pads best I could over the past few weeks and tested them for anti lock and to make sure truck would stop if I needed hard braking. Everything works as it should. However, the pedal feels softer than before. It was the first time I changed the brakes on this truck OEM pads were down to 2mm.

Before when I stopped on an incline I would stop and I like the take off assist (manual transmission) and would push down a little harder on the pedal. It would never go to floor. Now under same circumstances if I push pretty hard the pedal will almost go to floor.

I bled the brakes again today about 8-10 times per side but did not see any obvious indication of air in the system. So I am thinking its one of two things. Either I damaged the master cylinder somehow and it won't build full pressure or the rear drums are out of adjustment. Thoughts?

 

I am thinking master cylinder since it was fine before changing fronts.

 

What trim level do you have?

 

Some might disagree - but it is not wise to push the old brake fluid back into the system. Always crack the bleeder and let it run out as you push the piston in. If the bleeder is frozen - crack the brake line connection to the caliber and point it up. You should not need to bleed the system after that, and if you do - the air is right close to the caliber.

 

Are you sure you put a correct fluid type?
Looks like Sram bike brake fluid.
Speaking of bicycles. Why do you need to invent a bicycle?

 

Always start with a rear adjustment. You bought performance brake parts and you have neglected a very important part of tacoma brake servicing. They need to be adjusted at least every 10,000 miles. Many run the same shoes the entire vehicle life because they dont adjust their shoes.

When I see caliper push back causing issues there's usually a ABS code triggered, so as long as you dont have a code its likely fine. I'd say adjust shoes, drive for a few days, then rebleed.

Performance pads can feel weird, even when bedded properly.

 

Being an owner of a 3rd gen and having owned a 1st gen tundra both with drum brakes I can definitely second this. Proper adjustment of rear drum brakes is constantly overlooked, and their importance in providing a proper brake pedal height isn't understood very well. I would definitely start there. There's plenty of tutorials on how to do so. Also, anyone correct me if I'm wrong but these, and most drum brakes are self adjusting to the point where the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism will automatically tighten when you hit the brakes real hard (or in reverse?) AS LONG AS your parking brake cable is adjusted properly. I'd start by popping the drums off and adjusting them there first. Then pop the console off and adjust the parking brake cable if it still isn't that tight.

Hope everything works out for ya!

Brooks

 

I've seen Calipers flipped/on the wrong side of the vehicle and it wouldn't allow the brakes to bleed properly.

 

TRD Sport V6

 

Ok I ran out today and backed up a few times and came to to a stop several times to see if the auto adjusters were working and I could definitely feel the pedal becoming firmer. It didn't fix the issue if course but I believe you are correct. I will get them adjusted. Thank you

 

I believe the self adjustment mechanism on these trucks are actuated by the hand brake, not the reversing method like many domestics

 

Appreciate the thought but 100% sure they are on correctly. Im not sure you could install it backwards or upside down. The brake hose is pretty short and steel the last 6 or 8 inches. You would definitely kink it if you spun the caliper. Im pretty sure its the rear brakes out of adjustment at this point

 

DOT 5 is bike fluid. DOT 5.1 is for pickups. I don't know the difference between it and DOT 4 but I was told by Toyota that 5.1 is compatible. NAPA was out of DOT4 so I went with 5.1. After bleeding I got rid of all old in the front lines.

 

Thanks all for the replies. I decided to try backing up and using e brake to see if it would adjust the rears before hand adjusting. After about 4 good stops the pedal is now much mich better and truck stops better. I thought it was like Ford and Chevy where you back up and use pedal to adjust but I found the procedure through this site with the e brake. Worked like a charm

 

No. Bicycle hydraulic brake systems use 3-4-5.1 automotive brake fluid or very specific Mineral brake fluids.

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-ksa/vehicle-maintenance-brake-fluid/

https://www.quicksilver-products.com/en/blog/know-the-difference-between-dot3-dot4-and-dot5-brake-fluid#:~:text=DOT5%20is%20a%20silicone%2Dbased,system%2C%20such%20as%20motorcycle%20applications.

https://tiltonracing.com/brake-flui...th a dry boiling point,, towing, or have ABS.

 

SRAM is 5.1 and stupid expensive. I use https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AICLM20158 on all my services.

 

I'm skeptical about this method. I've tried with zero changes. Even toyota techs did not believe in it
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-drum-brakes-auto-adjust.813516/

 

In my "lived" experience, the self adjustment is better than nothing but not by much. Every tire rotation you could get atleast a click or two out of them. In my opinion if your brakes are out of adjustment you have to actually manually set them up. The self adjustment isn't a miracle cure. It's basically as useful as a pen cap for you pen

 

Well its been almost a week and the pedal is back to about the same feel as pre brake change and truck definitely stops better. It appears to have worked. No pull when I brake and anti locks work. I have a service due in about 900 miles and will definitely have them checked but they appear to be back to normal