Compression test - White smoke *Cracked head*

https://www.yotashop.com/timing-kit...m-timing-belt-master-kit-1995-2004-kit-1116g/

 

x2 on all new parts. That's what I'll be doing as well. The knock sensors and harness are highly recommended. That runs about $500 for OEM.

 

Also denso sells direct out of california......although they have some shortages.....

DENSO Auto Parts | Home

 

Still going back and forth between options..

I talked to one of the guys over at Cylinder Head International,
https://www.headsonly.com/product/toyota-tacoma-5vzfe-3-4-rebuilt-cylinder-head .
He is very well versed in these cylinder head cracks..
Said these Toyota engines alone basically keep the business afloat, apparently shipped over 100 5VZFE heads since the start of the year.
Definitely interesting to hear this point of view, never would have thought engine repairs on Tacomas/4Runners could be a mechanics bread and butter.

They're currently out of stock waiting on cores, so if I don't hear back from him soon I'd go with ClearWater reman heads.
https://www.cylinder-heads.com/prod...-4-dohc-5vzfe-cylinder-heads-remanufactured/#

I tried a local machine shop, but they're 4 months out on block rebuilds and wont touch cracked heads, they also suggested trying ClearWater.

All in at Headsonly $1600, or Clearwater $2000.
Leaves me a hell of a lot more headroom for anything I break (or find broken) during disassembly as well.


I put together a cost sheet for all the options I've been comparing, for anyone else to reference should they find themselves in a similar spot in the near future.

Normally wouldn't consider Autozone, but ATK seems to have a pretty good reputation. Local warranty support would be nice as well. They are currently the least expensive way to get a rebuilt 5VZFE to your door.

Interesting thing about the auto part store reman cylinder heads, one they’re all made by ATK. They supply Napa, autozone, advance and oreillys. Also, the left head is $550 while the right head is $990. The reman right head is basically the same price as the new right head. From what I’ve found the cyl 3 valve seat crack is the most common head failure, and may be the reason why the passenger heads are so much more expensive. Probably not enough cores available.

Not sure if its the right thing to do, but I've basically crossed used engines off the table. Mainly because after all the basic 'due diligence' replacements and such that you want to do on an unknown used engine it ends up being nearly the same as a fresh rebuild.
Didn't include fluids either, so you can tack an extra $150 to everything.

 

So I figured I’d start tearing down the top end, maybe find a reason to go one way or the other..

I noticed there’s a lot of moisture in the intake plenum and manifold. Seems mostly normal from what I can find, oil from the Pcv.

I also took a look down the intake manifold into the problem cylinder, 3, and saw there’s a pool on top of one of the intake valves. Not really something I expected to see
That orange is a pool of gunk/coolant

 

PM sent

 

So I ordered a set of reman heads from ClearWater.
I've been slowly pulling the engine apart after work, and I am looking to get the heads off today or tomorrow. As it sits all that's left to pull is the exhaust crossover pipe and the heads will be free to remove.

It looks like I'll have a week or two before the heads arrive with the engine pulled apart, is there anything I should do to the block in the mean time while I have access to it?
I plan on cleaning as much as I can, but other than that I can't think of anything. With the cleaning, I assume I need to plug all holes and make sure nothing falls into any passages.. I do plan on doing a coolant flush and oil change once its all back together.
Or any suggestions on things to look at/check to verify no issues with the block before reassembly?

Now would be the time to get a new short block on order (Id really like to avoid that), not after its all back together

 

yeah man there is some secret block coolant drain plug......lemme find that thread i saw.........

 

found it!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...the-block-drain-to-3-4l.818760/#post-29363267

 

Getting the gunk off the top of my cylinder block was a chore. I used one of these:

$42 Lisle 81780 Carbide Scraper Set

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-81780-...09&sprefix=carbide+flat+scrape,aps,183&sr=8-2

$13 Swpeet 100Pcs High Temp Silicone Rubber Protective Tapered Plug Assortment Kit, Masking System Kit Perfect for Powder Coating, Painting, Anodizing, Plating & Media Blasting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJYPGT5?ie=UTF8&th=1
Also used some of these laying around my shop to plug the majority of the holes, along with shop towels in the larger holes.

 

Good to know! I thought I got the last of it out when I pulled the water pump off but I'll check that too make sure its all out.

 

real interested on how much comes out of yours. (as heads(will be) removed/h20 pump removed)

 

Yeah I had started cleaning with a brush and degreaser, but found the buildup was so bad it would just instantly clog the brush.
I've been scraping with my pry bar to get the 1/2" layer off.. Dont ignore your oil leaks it isnt worth it...

I think I'll be using the scotchbrite method Timmy uses to clean the head gasket surface as well, obviously not using the pry bar for that lol

 

Also, take one of your old head bolts and make it into a thread chaser, clean the old head bolt holes out with it.

Make 1000% sure the holes are clean and no fluid in the head bolt holes. I didn't know it was possible, but when you reinstall the head bolts, if there is oil down that hole, there is so much pressure it can cause the block to crack. (my friend cracked his ls1 block doing this.)

 

If there is oil down them is there a way to get it out? Just stuff a paper towel down it? I can't imagine running the head bolt in and out of it would pull oil out.

 

LOL

IMO creates a 'new material/element'
those nasty 'chips' of old oil seepage and dirt debris i still find on garage floor
and they wont just 'sweep away' with a broom

had that crap in my hair(and didnt know it)
took a shower and tons of that crap came out of my hair
i started wear a crappy cap for the rest of that 4 day project way back....

 

The thread chaser won't pull the oil out. It just cleans the threads and any schmoo in there.

My friend told me to spray brake clean down the threaded hole, let it marinate for a second then use shop air and a shop rag immediately on top of your air tool to catch it all.

I have a shop vac, with an attachment kit made for detailing interiors, that was small enough to fit down the hole.

 

shop vac?
syringe with a tube?
compressed air with towel over holes?

def a great idea woad4

 

That element is the worst, and I've got it EVERYWHERE
I had a valve cover leak left untouched for about a decade, it originally lost some oil.. But once everything was coated in the nice mix of oil and dirt it eventually sealed itself back up. Thats coming back to haunt me...
Thankfully I had the foresight to throw some cardboard under the engine before I started haha
Probably will still have to spend a day after this is all said and done cleaning the garage back up

 

Hopefully you're having fun, I dreaded doin this job until I was half way through and actually started to enjoy it, beside the $$$$$$$