C Rated or E Rated Tires....What Do You Run?

I have E rated 255/85r16 Yokohama MTs & E rated 265/75r16 dedicated snow tires (Grabber Arctic LT). I have no complaints with either in terms of ride quality.

I frequently drive 4x4 trails in Deschutes National Forest & Mt Hood National Forest, which have a lot of sharp lava rock. I have taken chunks out of some lugs when driving on those trails. E rated tires is probably overkill for most uses, but I am glad I have them when I am out solo on rocky trails.

 

That is me. My trips are remote and solo, and recovery is VERY difficult or not possible at all. One lake I fish is 2 hours to drive the last mile in, barely truck width and no pullouts. Before that last mile in it is first 22 miles of 4x4 only. I go there for the fishing only. I have no interest in testing the trucks abilities. Did that when I was a kid.

I have been at this for 40 years. Never for “ off roading “ purposes, only for the purpose of getting to these remote fishing spots.

Been studying online maps the last 3 hours trying to find a way in to another lake I have not fished. From satellite maps it looks like about 40 miles of FSR, another 20+ miles of 4x4 trail, and no info online whether it is driveable at all or even has fish. Those are the spots I like to fish.

Will try that one in late May when the ice is off the high elevation lakes. Many of these spots cannot be accessed other than hike in. This one looks promising. The trail ends about a half mile from the lake so a short hike in could be possible.

Hundreds of these spots in BC, so I do this type of new exploration about 15 trips per fishing season. About half of the lakes end up being accessible by truck, the other by hike in. If my truck was not used full time for off road reasons, I would sell it and drive a car.

This satellite map an example of what I look for. The red line shows a trail that is likely 4x4 only and quite narrow. The yellow line is in question. In these cases it is not clear if a truck can make it in. Might be ATV only.

This happens to be to a lake I fish. The last section is best by ATV but I am able to make it in with my Tacoma. 1st gear 4 lo the last stretch in. Chainsaw essential here.

Other pic is the reward at this spot.

 

I’m a magnet for random stuff on the road and I off road quite a bit. Load E on the Tacoma and the wifeys 4Runner.

 

I am pretty sure I would only run a C or SL, but another angle on tires.

Just had a plug put in one of the tires (1/8th in from the service advisor description). But plugged anyway. According to their warranty now it cannot be plugged again ... fair enough. The nail lodged in the tire BEFORE S Senator Rd run, so no connection. They also say they will replace "whatever tire they find, if a blowout or puncture occurs". And only warranty-swap above 4/32 nd, mine being at 6/32 nds currently.

I think the puncture may be a sign to get new shoes. Also after taking it on Senator Rd and some unpleasant rocks, I think new shoes are in order to replace my Goodyear Wrangler Territory.

Discount Tire recommends BFG K02 or Toyo Open Country R/T Trail in a C rating. They also mention Wildpeak AT4 or Nitto Ridge Grappler in SL. I see no need to run the E-rated Toyo Open Country ATIII.

 

I honestly didn't notice much difference between my former C Load 265/75/16 Duratracs vs my current E Load 255/80/17 Wildpeaks. Maybe it's because the current ones are Pizza cutters...

I only wish the Duratracs came in my pizza cutter size...

 

I like E’s for less chance of sidewall puncture

 

I've done well so far with SL rated tires. I don't want to hinder the taco un necessarily without good reason. (I do find myself in remote areas on my own... but I do not drive on lava fields (molten or otherwise, I avoid obsidian fields, but do drive a fair bit off road - and air down both for traction and off road comfort.).

I am curious to see a real (scientific, lab conditions + Field) test of off roading suitability / durability of SL tires vs E - or even beyond...

Does anyone know of a clever youtuber we can cajole into making such a video??

Lots of things seem to be done by TW members for 'Peace of mind' (Or is it "Piece of mind"??)

For those seeking such a mind status from your E-load rated tires; I ask: why stop there? Why not go with F, G, or H rated tires? Would that be just silly?

- Honest question... Some of these higher load ratings go up to 125 psi and huge load capacities. They must have indestructible sidewalls capable of rattling the teeth out of the harshest ride fanatics. These may feel harsher than railroad wheels!

 

C all day. If you need E, get a full size truck.

 

Peace of Mind (n): a manufactured nirvana like feeling when doing unnecessary but easily self justified things to a Tacoma pickup truck

Piece of mind (n): a chunk of brain

 

Fair warning - I just saw this post today, four years after it started. Also - I read the OP and skipped the rest. Why? I'm an opinionated SOB who is out in the streets evangelizing for PROPER load rated tires.

C-Class tires still exceed (even dynamically exceed) your truck's ability to tow / load/ carry. You will start breaking other stuff on the truck from load before you do the tires. C-Class is Overkill but within reasonable amounts. Anything higher than C-Class is Over-Overkill. The higher you go beyond C-Class, the more you sacrifice drive-ability, comfort, handling, MPG, especially off road comfort - and all for an increased load capacity on your tires that your truck will never see.

People will decry and bemoan "Yes, but what about puncture resistance! And what about stronger sidewalls!" True! E-Class has all of that and will withstand more abuse (really rugged bashing abuse) but the C-Class is already stronger than most drivers will ever need. Are you racing a Baja-1000 Truck? Then get the E-Class. Are you taking the kids to school, getting groceries, camping, fishing, going off into the desert southwest to explore Indian Ruins? Then the C-Class is Muey Bueno.

I have always run C-Class and been very happy.
Over on the Ranger5G forum there were people that got BFG-ATKO2's and loved them and hated them. The ones that loved them had C-Class. The haters had E-Class. The E-Class buyers thought "more was better" or didn't ask for a load rated tire and the tire shop sold them an E-Class tire.

Trust me on this....
E-Rated tires on a Tacoma is like putting a giant rear wing spoiler on a Toyota Corolla. Fine if that's how you want to spend your money and ride around but not necessary and not giving you any real measurable benefits.

 

While I do not have personal experience with comparing c & E, this is my understanding also. The only down side is that in order to get C Load Range tires (in my tire of choice - Falkens) I need to stick with the 16" rims and that leaves my tire choice very limited (like 3 AT's in that size). If I go 17' I have much more choice but mostly in load range E.

I think I am going to stick with the 16's and take a chance so I can go with Load Range C. I am going to be off-roading but I think I agree that even the load range C should be more than sufficient. The Falkens in C still have a Duraspec sidewall.

 

Why does the D keep being left out, yes phrasing. it pretty much comes down to what you are driving on and what type of ride you want. The stock GY's that came on my '23 felt like squishy marshmallows. I have had E rated GY Duratracs for 80k on my 2010 and the ride was rough. After I went with a D rated and the ride was noticeably smoother, aside from the last tire being at 80k miles, but I do believe in having some sidewall to help with the Montana rocks, so I was pretty happy with my choice.

I got a 2023 with the stock softies and after my suspension upgrade, I went right back to the GY Dura's at a D rating. I drive Hwy everyday, although this morning had 6" of fresh snow, so thank you Duratracs for getting me to work safe. but I also tow a trailer on country roads and up rocky trails to camp and overland.

So what kind of driving you do should make it a lot easier to make your decision.

 

Yokohama E rated 255/85/16 great tire will buy again

 

I have two different sets of E's, more for the tall skinny tire sizes that are only available in E load rather than for any other reason. My Mastercraft Courser CXT's are 255/85R16, went with those prior to going to Moab for the first time and decided to prioritize bigger tires for diff clearance rather than a lift, so I wanted the tallest tires I could fit with stock suspension. I really like that tire size, so I can see myself sticking with them for the life of the truck. The beefier construction and thicker sidewalls was just an added bonus for airing down and when wheeling for me.

I wanted to get dedicated snow tires this winter (and then we got a record low amount of snow, lol) and I wanted again to go with something tall and skinny, so I ended up with 235/85R16 Nokian Hakka's, which also only come in E load.

Maybe it's been so long on E load tires that I don't remember what the stock tires felt like (took them off at 10k for the 255's, now approaching 40k) but the ride isn't significantly harsher to me. I run the 255's at 36 psi and the 235's at 39 psi. Since adding my high clearance rear bumper, I have more peace of mind leaving the spare 255 at home (since it looks stupid under the truck now), unless I'm going on some cross country road trip, then it goes in the bed. I didn't buy a spare 235 because they were E load. I carry a tire puncture kit in the truck at all times.

I agree that they are definitely overkill for most use cases, but for fans of tall skinny tires, there aren't a lot of options, and so far, the benefits have outweighed the negatives for me. I haven't had a discernible drop in MPG's, the 255's have worn really well, and my ass can't tell the difference in ride quality, the midsize truck still rides like a midsize truck.

255:



235:

 

The taller sidewall cushions the ride a bit.

 

Because there are not may Load Range D tires to be had. I am not saying none, but as far as I know the most popular brands seems to come in either C or E.

 

E rated here.
Don’t really care about mpg and it’s like buying a divers watch in case it gets wet doing dish’s!
Can’t say I need it just what I wanted.

 

E is excessive and dumb.

C or D all day long

 

265/75/16 at3w E rated. 15-18 mpgs cruising at 63mph every day, I also do lots of gravel road driving

 

Ah, well that would make it a challenge