Gen 2 6 sp manual regearing

Here is a post that has all the different 2nd gen differential combos and how to read it from the sticker on your door jamb.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2005-2016-tacoma-axle-codes.408019/

As for the 5-lug diff, sorry while the external case dimensions and axle lengths are the same the internal dimensions of the 5-lug are smaller. Discovered this from the X Runner guys when I was wanting to change the ratio in my base gardener truck. It would require me to do a whole third member swap and the put the 5-lug axles in it to change the gearing as no one makes different ring and pinion gears for the 5-lug diff.

 

hopefully this is not true lol. Everything I’ve read on here and asked gear shops say it’s fine.

supposedly the manual 4.10 4x4 is a little different in the third
but I believe the donor core I’m using is 3.58 from an automatic gardener truck, 2008

which appears to be 8.4” open diff with the handle reinforcements
(To put into my V6)
I’ve heard all 8.4 is the same

only one way to find out I guess

seemed to work here:

http://gearinstalls.com/Sam2014tacoma.htm



plus, ECGS lists 3.58 as an acceptable core ratio

 

Yeah, the Gearinstalls example shouldn't have had any issues since it was a 4x4 axle to start with. From what I've seen it's only the 5-lug 8" that seems to have the internal size issue. There have been guys who the shops told them it would work only to find out when they started it that the ring and pinions didn't fit. Maybe I'm wrong and it;ll go great for you. I hope it does since it would mean I have a better chance of re-gearing mine too.

Actually just took a better look at the diff you have and yes, I believe you are right that it is an 8.4 like you said. I'm not so sure it's a diff out of a 5-lug base model though.

 

that Zuk gearinstalls pic and link shows what appears to be a 3.58 gardener truck RWD 2WD getting changed from 3.58 to 4.56. 8.4 diff they call it, due to the handles.

I think 8” means no handles, came in OR/Off Road lockers

from what I’ve read, any 2nd gen that is not OR/Off Road elocker 8”, means it is 8.4 with handles

shop I bought it from basically said it came out of a non fender flare RWD gardener truck, I’m guessing the more common automatic.

I’m not trying to argue at all. And thank you for posting. Just trying to figure out for sure like if anyone happens to know or has been through this.

bought the third member for 50 bucks that way I can drop it off at a shop for bench building and not have the truck sitting taken apart and down forever as non driving. Don’t really have a place to store it like that.

was under the impression they’re the same but in hindsight maybe I should’ve played it safer and looked specifically for a 3.73 4x4 diff (non elocker) even if higher cost, to be sure it is the same

I guess I’ll find out from the shop, or if there’s any issues when I go to put it on. Would be my fault not theirs. And just deal with stock gears for a while until figuring it out.

I would hope Toyota would make them the same simply for cheaper production cost of using the same parts and tooling

 

I would hope they would as well, but they do seem to love making multiple sizes.

Never thought you were arguing. I actually hope it works because it would mean I have a much more reasonable route to getting a Truetrac on my truck. Being able to pick up a cheap auto 4x2 diff would be a lot nicer than having to do a whole third member upgrade.

Look forward to seeing what the results are.

 

4.88 F/R and rear TrueTrac is in the diffs now just gotta look up DIYs to determine what’s left needed to do and if more parts are needed

-installation
-reconnecting the ADD tube to the clamshell (sealant)
-verifying the ADD on this thing works (going to do manual delete later not now)
-possibly replacing outermost seal at ADD tube because it looks old and hasn’t been replaced
-carbide scraper and brakleen to mating surfaces

not sure if I’m gonna do rear first and remove front halfshaft for safety

or go for the front as well at the same time which glancing at the truck looks a bit harder to do than rear.
(potential disassemble front suspension, pop out CV axles, etc)

I don’t anticipate desperately needing 4X within the next month but you never know.

looks like I’m missing bolts that hold the ADD tube onto the clamshell. I’ll see what dealer cost is. New would be faster than donating the ones on my truck and rushing sealant to cure.

rear install seems like unbolt bearings and space the hubs out with spare sockets to allow for removing third member, not necessarily requiring further parts replacement if careful to not damage anything like seals, etc

 

I had a 14 6 spd. A couple of the best things I did aside from the supercharger was a regear to 4.30 and the cam gears. I chose the 4.30 because it gave me a little extra without the high highway rpm’s.

 

pt2

stopped by dealer to order up 4 bolts attaching tube to front diff
“Toyota red FIPG” for it is $22 a tube

I wonder how critical that is or if I can use something I already have like RTV.
I also have VW silicone sealant that the Germans use on a lot of stuff to include diffs, but I’m guessing RTV is better as it can smear on

as opposed to VW where that black silicone sealant is typically being laid down in a 3mm bead with long cure time

 

I've always used RTV, the quick setting stuff that sets in a minute. Never had a problem.

 

I've always used permatex black "the right stuff". Never had a leak. Instant back to service time

 

Yep that's what it's called, that's what I use as well. I love that stuff.

 

Thanks

gonna check to confirm I have the RTV I think is in my toolbox
Hopefully it says an expiration date (some sealants do) and is within the window of not being expired

I’m guessing color (seen folks use grey) is personal preference and not important

will see if I can find the right bolts at home (they’re on order) or extras that can be made to fit
Just for temporary use to get started on the sealant curing process that I’m guessing is simply clean and smear with gloved finger RTV onto the mating parts - enough but not excessive

tempted to assume the actuator is in working order and leave it alone to try and see what happens

I have an FJ tcase but that conversion is planned for later when I gather whatever else is needed (twin sticks, ADD-delete tube parts, etc)

I’ve got ECGS bushing full tool kit that appears to have an outer seal puck driver (clear white plastic)
It’s for the left “short” side of the diff/driver side
-but I assume it can also be used the same exact way on the passenger side outer end of the ADD tube to put the new seal on there to try and ensure no leaks when the diff goes in.

 

The two sides are different sizes, so possibly not.

If you use "the right stuff" there is no curing process, it's back in service immediately. As far as application, I lay 3/16" ish bead of rtv and then mate the parts together.

 

I will pile on an recommend that you do not regear. Not needed for your intended use. and going from 3.76 to 4.10 is definitely not worth it, too small a change. If you wanted to crawl, then maybe, but if you are just overlanding, definitely not. we run essentially a 34" tire with no drivability issues with the MT. It is very expensive to regear a tacoma, probably 2-3 times in the parts cost vs a jeep. keep the peace of mind and reliability of your factory installed gears and sleep easy knowing that you will never have issues with your diffs. Spend the money on other cool stuff for your truck.

 

………4.30 man, I’m tellin ya. You won’t go wrong

 

Another beauty of 4.30 gears are the cost savings, you can source a rear diff from a 96-02 4runner with factory 4.30 gears relatively cheap, then you're just left with the cost of getting the front diff regeared.

 

rear truetrac 4.88 is in. Used the right stuff sealant, noticed no leaks. Going to check again to verify no leaks.
Surprised to find on here a post claiming torque spec on the rear diff bolts is 18 ft lbs which is low. Hopefully that is correct.
Does sound possible though. Because the studs are small and many in number.

everything else seemed to go well.
Spaced the rear brakes out with a socket, cleaned the area, sprayed silicone, then put them back after diff in. Not seeing leaks there either.

Gotta do the front now. Am making sure to not put it in 4x with mismatched diffs.

Need to figure out what break-in exists, if any, with REM polished. Internet has mixed conflicting opinions.
Using recommended Lucas 85w140 SAE. Stuff ain't cheap. Would be nice if I don't have to change it again at 500 mi.

Initial impressions:
-the truck seems like a feather now. Barely touch the throttle to move. Doesn't care what gear it's in. Doesn't feel lacking in power any more or like it's chained to a post.
-speedo is now way off, more than ever. I'm guessing truck has an algorithm programmed to calculate speed from RPM and gears messed with that. Google's saying the best popular fix is Hypertech unit to adjust that to actual.
-tires, size, armor, drag; truck doesn't seem to care anymore. Feels at least like a stock truck, if not even better, in terms of ability to move

-I'm not really used to being above 2500RPM and don't know what the truck is supposed to be at. What is optimal for highway cruising in terms of MPG. I'd assume the lower the better.
It seems to do well in the right half of the highway. This is CA where people go faster.
I don't know how it would do in the left half. I guess that would take testing and MPG calculating.
65-70 I think it's about 2500rpm. That may have to do with these Kenda 35's possibly being not true 35's but closer to 34. I feel like the truck could one day handle 37's from a gear standpoint.
Was not confident about the idea of towing before, but now am.
Was thinking about OTT tune, IM spacers, URD Y-pipe. The latter two don't seem quite as needed anymore.

Every place recommends something different. Some say do 4.56. Others say do 5.29. Others say 4.88.
Either way, 4.88 is what's in there now. It's not easy to do. So that's pretty much how it's gonna be and stay. It will at least give future compatibility with things, whether that be weight, tires, or even a stronger diff.
For example, if folks break a diff and get the Dana or whatever from ECGS, well that can come in 4.88 and match. I don't think it can come in 5.29.
That seems more of a thing on 16-23 that I believe has a very overdrive AT 6th.

Or, what also comes to mind, FJ Cruiser manual trans supposedly the 6th gear is a better highway gear than 6th in Taco manual. Not an easy gear or trans swap.
So just going to accept the fact that one factor of highway behavior is going to be dictated not necessarily by the diff ratios, but the 6th ratio in the Taco trans.

Excited to get it in 4x. Can't right now as still need to put the matching front diff. But given the above I expect the same improvements to be noticeable in 4x.